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cgranite
Sep 25, 2003, 4:53 AM
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For Free climbing which cam do you prefer, Metolius or BD, please explain your reasons?
If you use BD, but don't like their smaller units, then say what you do like. Same goes for Metolius.
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punk
Sep 25, 2003, 5:12 AM
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I like one word
RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 25, 2003, 5:15 AM
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green to gold (.75"-3") BD camalots, because thay have the most size range, downside is they are heavy
green to red aliens, because they are the most versatile as far as where you can place them, plus they are the easiest to clean.
silver and purple Metolius(0 and 00) TCU's because they are easier to place correctly than aliens (easy to visually verify), if the rock is soft I switch back to aliens
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cgranite
Sep 25, 2003, 5:25 AM
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I've already researched, but I'm still undicided. Their both such good cams that the only thing to look at now is the climbers preference.
By the way, this is primarilly for Yosemite granite.
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eoghan
Sep 25, 2003, 10:11 AM
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as with most climbing gear it's all a matter of personal preference. the best thing to do is use them, climb with different people and use as many different kinds of cams as possible. then you will know which one's you like to use.
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mustclimb69
Sep 25, 2003, 12:14 PM
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BD cams are single stem and are less prone towalking when compared to Metolius Cams The dual stem of Metolius cam can "pry" during a fall. However The dual stem of Metolius cams offers a wide vfariety of placing and trigger options making them easier to place especially the large sizes. I have both as well as some friends (Tech and Forged) and would reccomend Buying a Metolius starter kit b/c of the cost savings and you get every size. Then double up on common sizes, depending where you climb. Thus you have a selection of single or dual stem option depending on the placement.
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onbelay_osu
Sep 25, 2003, 4:08 PM
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for smaller placements i would go with Metolius, i just think they sink better and they set with so much ease... but for larger placements it is all about the BD nothing in the world feels as good as a #3 BD sunk into a crack...
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tradklime
Sep 25, 2003, 4:14 PM
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Neither, aliens and wild country.
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petsfed
Sep 25, 2003, 5:16 PM
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For Granite, its camalots all the way. The varied crack sizes within one pitch = more range within the device. Also, BD has thinner lobes which means higher force on the rock itself. Not really an issue on granite. For Sandstone, esp. wingate, metolius is better, esp since the cracks tend to be of the splitter variety. Walking is not so much an issue. Wider cam lobes keep "tracking" to a minimum.
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camhead
Sep 25, 2003, 5:19 PM
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don't use Metolius. they operate sweatchops, test their products on little asian kids, and started their company with interest gained off of swiss bank accounts that were started with Jewish gold stolen by Hitler.
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bxt
Sep 25, 2003, 5:28 PM
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I say that if you have to ask, don't buy. Make some friends that have gear that you're interested in and demo it all out (even on the ground)- when you find something that you really like and you feel good about it then go for it.
If you do otherwise (and buy something just because it is cheap- like what many people do (including myself at one point)) then you may end up not happy later, wishing you had something else--- not what you want when you're high on a wall and banking on your gear.
As pointed out- it will vary on what you climb most or optimize for.
Having said all that- I've got BD from #.5 and up and Aliens for smaller. They've all replaced other cams that I didn't like as much. Double axle DB are best in #1 and up.
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punk
Sep 26, 2003, 12:15 AM
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In reply to: started their company with interest gained off of swiss bank accounts that were started with Jewish gold stolen by Hitler.
where on earth did u get that???? :? :?
http://smile.smilies.nl/365.gif
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cgranite
Sep 26, 2003, 4:39 AM
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I heard that many people like Metolius over BD because they don't have plastic triggers.
I hardily know anyone that climbs trad, and the only person that is willing to take me,...climbs with wierd stuff and some BD. I don't think I will be getting to do any demoing.
what the hell was that camhead, what kind of a mind thinks up stuff like that? :lol:
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jamnsurf
Sep 26, 2003, 4:44 AM
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Metolious all the way, why? because there easier to grab and put in crackas than the bd 1 finger cams.
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dlintz
Sep 26, 2003, 3:02 PM
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I likeMetolius in the small sizes. I personally don't own any BD's but have used them many times. They certainly work well but I'll my take WC Tech Friends over them anyday. Cheaper and lighter.
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cgranite
Sep 30, 2003, 12:57 AM
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I recently heard that Metolius cams will get "S" bent when fallen on.
Is this true or what? Do you like aliens or Met. TCU's?
I'm thinking about buying Metolius 5-8. Is there anything bad about them?
I figure I will probably buy them since they are comfortable in my hand and are lighter that BD.
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pico23
Sep 30, 2003, 4:30 AM
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In reply to: For Free climbing which cam do you prefer, Metolius or BD, please explain your reasons? If you use BD, but don't like their smaller units, then say what you do like. Same goes for Metolius.
Whichever you prefer. They will both hold a fall and both will fit in a crack sized for the unit. If you don't like what you buy I'm sure you'll be able to sell it on rc.com or somewhere else.
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cgranite
Sep 30, 2003, 5:29 AM
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I can't find anything on the larger metolius cams. (5-8 power cams)
Can someone please give some input on these cams?
I will most likely go with BD for the larger sizes, weight and durability are an issue, soo.
If no one will talk about the larger cams them say something about TCU's or Aliens. (PROS & CONS)
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pico23
Sep 30, 2003, 6:34 AM
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In reply to: I can't find anything on the larger metolius cams. (5-8 power cams) Can someone please give some input on these cams? I will most likely go with BD for the larger sizes, weight and durability are an issue, soo. If no one will talk about the larger cams them say something about TCU's or Aliens. (PROS & CONS)
For durability, BD cams get two thumbs down. Count on either making your own trigger wires or spending $9 a cam on new ones every 2 years. In that same time my Rock Empire Robots, Met TCUs, and Aliens and a Friend all still look good depsite frequent use. So if your buying a cam for durability consider another brand besides BD.
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norushnomore
Oct 1, 2003, 9:27 AM
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BD from 0.3 (smallest double-axle) to 2
Above 2 they get too heavy and you don't get as much of gain in camming ranges as you do in smaller sizes
DMM 4 CUs 3.4 and 4 are almost perfect size-wise substitute for BD 3 and 3.5 but weight a lot less
In a micro sizes go for both Aliens (blue/green) and TCUs 0 & 00.
They compliment each other nicely
Suggesting super small (aid) or off-width gear is tricker as it becomes more specialized
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on_sight_man
Oct 1, 2003, 9:05 PM
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Purple (.5) to Grey (3.5) Camalots.
Yes, they're heavy, but they LAST, have SMOOTH trigger, are easy to place (forgiving size wise) almost NEVER reverse on you and don't walk much.
For smaller sizes, blue and grey mini Camalots are great, as are aliens all the way down.
Once you have singles in those sizes, then start filling in from other manufactirers (though doubling up on #1 was for me important). Rigid friends rock. Using a different manufacturer for the seconds helps because they are subtly different sizes.
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cantbuymefriends
Oct 2, 2003, 2:22 PM
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I've been looking at cams for quite a while now, but because there's so many choises and so much money involved I haven't been able to decide (hence the username...).
Anyway, everyone I ask tells me "Oh, get the Camalots! Sure they are expensive and heavy, but the superior range more than makes up for it!" But does it really?
As someone pointed out here, RESEARCH!!! So I started comparing Camalots with Aliens. And found out that up to the second to largest Alien the difference in range to the corresponding Camalot is almost nothing, and sometimes in the Aliens favour.
OK, the Aliens doesn't have cam stops, as BD have built-in in their double axle design, but I figure that the Aliens is more versatile for placing behind flakes or in horisontal cracks with their flexible-all-the-way stem.
So, if the prices are comparable, is there any reason to buy a red Camalot (#1, range 30-51 mm) instead of the 20% lighter purple Alien (#2, range 30.5-50 mm).
(Disclaimer. I could be wrong on the range/weight figures. I took the Camalot figures from BD homepage, but I couldn't find CCH so I got Aliens figures from some retailers homepage.)
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andypro
Oct 2, 2003, 2:53 PM
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In reply to: Anyway, everyone I ask tells me "Oh, get the Camalots! Sure they are expensive and heavy, but the superior range more than makes up for it!" But does it really?
In reply to: So, if the prices are comparable, is there any reason to buy a red Camalot (#1, range 30-51 mm) instead of the 20% lighter purple Alien (#2, range 30.5-50 mm).
Bah. I've got a bunch of camalots and really dont see a justification in the weight and expense. Go with some other quality cam and youll be jsut as happy, richer, and lighter to boot.
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tradklime
Oct 2, 2003, 2:57 PM
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In reply to: So, if the prices are comparable, is there any reason to buy a red Camalot (#1, range 30-51 mm) instead of the 20% lighter purple Alien (#2, range 30.5-50 mm).
In a word, no.
In my opinion, aliens offer so many benefits over camalots (any cam actually) of similar size that they are the way to go.
But you'll get a lot of differing opinions.
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punk
Oct 2, 2003, 3:22 PM
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In reply to: As someone pointed out here, RESEARCH!!! So I started comparing Camalots with Aliens. And found out that up to the second to largest Alien the difference in range to the corresponding Camalot is almost nothing, and sometimes in the Aliens favour.
Nice to see that someone have a real question,
There are 2 things that I will take to consideration (but it depending on your preferences)
1). The head length is considerably narrow then the Camelot. It could be good thing or bad thing all depending on the rock u climb.
2). The metal is softer T6061 vs. T 7071 for Camelot…again good and bad
3). DMM make a compatible in weight cam to the Aliens that answer some of your points…try them
And like I said before do your own research to see what works for you
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