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vegastradguy
Sep 30, 2003, 5:48 PM
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hey, so i'm thinking about abusing myself in IceBox Canyon for the first time this weekend, and word has it that FAB is the route to climb.
anyway, so here's the info i'm looking for:
1) Is Swain a decent guide for this thing?
2) Any pitches to be linked?
3) Do we really need RP's as per this site's info? *shudder*
4) Is it really 5.9+?
5) Anything else we MUST know for this thing?
cool cool, thanks in advance. We're locals otherwise, so we know approach, descent, weather, all that..just lookin for current must knows for this one, since we really havent spent any 'climbing' time in Icebox....
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hooker
Sep 30, 2003, 6:15 PM
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Good, not great, route. Don't need rp's. Still a little hot, it faces east and gets a lot of sun right now. The last pitch is definite 5.9, and is really the only stellar pitch on the route. Rappel from the tree on Burlesque. A better climb in the same grade: Community Pillar.
Suzanne
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vegastradguy
Sep 30, 2003, 7:04 PM
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hrm, i'd hate to climb 8 pitches of choss for 1 good pitch of 5.9. any other opinions?
and, if Community Pillar is better, please, same ?'s for it.
thanks!
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vegastradguy
Oct 2, 2003, 5:36 PM
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okay, i'm bumping this just once to solicit any more feedback on Frigid Air Buttress.
see my original question!
thanks in advance!
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ambler
Oct 2, 2003, 6:07 PM
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FAB is a great old-school adventure climb, more like mountaineering than like the bolt-fests in Velvet Canyon. The top pitch (5.9) is worth the trip, but there are other interesting parts as well -- the first pitch is fun 5.7; at mid-height there's a long crack section from hands to wide (5.8-5.9ish). You won't need RPs, but some small to mid stoppers would be good. Have fun!
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vegastradguy
Oct 2, 2003, 6:09 PM
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thanks!
also, do we need to double up on any cams?
and, hows the descent?
thanks again!
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ambler
Oct 2, 2003, 6:14 PM
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If it were me, I'd take a set of hexes (plus a set of stoppers) instead of a second set of cams. These aren't uniform Indian Creek types of cracks. As for the descent, we took a strange route, you don't want that beta.
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vegastradguy
Oct 2, 2003, 11:02 PM
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cool, we'll take the hexes if we can find them amongst all our crap.
someone was kind enough to PM me some excellent descent beta, so i'm covered there. (dont you just love descents @ Red Rocks?)
thanks for your help, much appreciated.
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ridgedancer
Feb 22, 2005, 7:34 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2005
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I'd like to iterate my opinion and support the opinion of others that FAB is a high-quality adventure route with more good rock climbing than some would admit. Yes, the final pitch is one of the very best of Red Rock, and AT LEAST half of the lower pitches are of 3-star quality. The setting is stunning, and a genuine alpine feel donimates. Once on top, head SE and take a peak into The Maze. It'll WOW! you right out of your socks.
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sbclimber
Feb 22, 2005, 8:00 PM
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In reply to: Once on top, head SE and take a peak into The Maze. It'll WOW! you right out of your socks.
I'll second the notion to check out the maze. My friend and I took a couple of lightweight hammocks w/ us in a backpack for the climb and spent the night up there. AWESOME.
You can also do the same thing on Sherwood Forest on Mt. Wilson.
Anyways, what happened to the sense of adventure? Grab your rack and see what you find up there.
I did like community pillar better but FAB and Burlesque are both definitely worth doing.
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