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sprtclimber
Oct 2, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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When learning trad, What do you believe taught you either the most or the best lessons?
In other words: What was it while learning to place gear that has made you confident in your climbing?
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tenn_dawg
Oct 2, 2003, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
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Dude,
I learned how to climb with a rope, a borrowed trad rack, and a partner who shared my distaste of instructors.
The thing that helped me learn to climb was the fear of hitting the ground and dying if I didn't do everything right. I read a few books, started on the ground, and worked my way up the rock.
Not for everyone, granted, but it worked for me.
If I was you, I'd borrow a rack, get on a climb I knew I wouldn't fall on, and figure it out.
If you were me, however, you may go find an instructor, take a class, and do it the right way.
Whatever you do, don't be a sport climber forever. At least climb 1 multipitch "gumby congo line" on trad gear. You'll be glad you did.
Travis
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herm
Oct 2, 2003, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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Survival
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halcyon
Oct 2, 2003, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
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It's always good to have someone who knows how to make placements show you how. Books can only go so far. I would suggest doing some placements on the ground and showing them to somebody that knows what they're doing so they can critique it.
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attitude
Oct 2, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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Experienced partners. Can't beat them. John Long's book "Climbing Anchors" is a good read for the trip to the crag as well.
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dingus
Oct 2, 2003, 4:14 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Time.
DMT
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stick233
Oct 2, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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Follow follow follow... find a trad climber not afraid of n00bs and follow every pitch he leads. cleaning is a bastion of knowledge. if you learn how to take 'em out, you get an idea of how they go in. i felt it was the perfect way to learn...
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maculated
Oct 2, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
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I agree with Dingus, time. Also, multiple mini epics to teach me the best way of doing things. There's something to be said for easing into multi-pitch and pushing your limits only when you're solid, solid, solid.
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crag
Oct 2, 2003, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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As Dingus said, Time. Time outside spent climbing, can't beat it.
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iamthewallress
Oct 2, 2003, 4:59 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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So long as Time = lots of mileage accumulated on lots of terrain in lots of different situations, I agree.
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climbinggirl33
Oct 11, 2003, 7:33 AM
Post #11 of 16
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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In reply to: Experienced partners. Can't beat them. John Long's book "Climbing Anchors" is a good read for the trip to the crag as well.
That's exactly what I am looking for - any tips for meeting some in WA?
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charley
Oct 11, 2003, 11:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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The leaders who were kind enough to take me with them and eventualy let me lead.
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ropeburn
Oct 11, 2003, 4:30 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2003
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In reply to: Dude, I learned how to climb with a rope, a borrowed trad rack, and a partner who shared my distaste of instructors. The thing that helped me learn to climb was the fear of hitting the ground and dying if I didn't do everything right. I read a few books, started on the ground, and worked my way up the rock.
Travis
I learned in the same manner and had the same sediments towards which "tool" helped me most.
:mrgreen:
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jono
Oct 12, 2003, 2:41 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
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im just starting trad myself and so far ive been doing the "travis method." i dont have anyone here to really help me but the best way i have learned is to get on the rock and practice placements, load them and take them out. i have learned a lot just by playing with the gear on toprope. im taking baby steps though.
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bustinmins
Oct 12, 2003, 2:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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I was fortunate enough to have an acquaintance that climbed. He got me on real rock as oppossed to plastic. Then showed me a great place to top rope - then I started adding gear to my "rack". First quickdraws as I wasn't sure if I wanted to lead trad then did my first sport lead. Then kept adding gear, nuts/hexes then cams. Then I placed gear and placed more gear at the ground level - set up anchors - etc. Then enlisted my friend's help to grade my work. I read the anchors and more anchors book by John Long. Excellent sources of information - but no substitute for doing it yourself and lots of practice.
Then I felt ready and invited my friend out to Eldorado Canyon - to help me do some more judging of placements etc - he's a 5.11B climber(he just completed the naked edge and two routes on the diamond) and we found this super juggy 5.2(West Crack of the Whale's Tail, Eldorado Canyon). This is a super nice route for your first trad lead. Nice holds - comfortable standing while you place gear...and a good spot for a practice belay half way up this 90 foot route. That way he could judge my anchor that I set up and my placements. We had a lot of fun that morning and I since have led that same route many times using a primary emphasis on specific types of gear. He suggested I do that so that I don't get stuck into the CAM only mode that some climbers get into. I go up that route and try to place as much pro as I can for practice. I go up with a "NUT" mindset or a HEX mindset and look for good placements for each type. That makes you see the same route differently.
Have fun and keep it safe....do yourself a favor and don't put yourself in the situation that you feel "Rushed" to complete the route. Even if you are pushed, just do it at your own speed. This isnt' golf, they can't drive around so THEIR own patience is the issue - not you.
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granitegod
Oct 12, 2003, 11:56 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 340
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Three rules when learning to lead:
1: follow. 2: follow. 3: follow ...... the more gear you've cleaned, the easier, and safer time you'll have PLACING gear, assuming the climbers you follow know what the hell they're doing.
I would also reccommend the John Long book "Climbing Anchors", a must for any beginner.
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