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seatoskyboy
Oct 14, 2003, 5:51 AM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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I am heading down to smith rocks at the end of October for a week of climbing and was hoping to get some insight into the best routes there. I can lead up to 11a/b trad or sport. Thank you.
p.s. any info on good to great routes not in the guide book would be an added bonus. :D
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nobody
Oct 14, 2003, 6:28 AM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2002
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there's this great route there called SEARCH
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tigerbythetail
Oct 14, 2003, 2:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Smith Rocks is a great place with stacks of classics in every range of difficulty and October is a perfect time to visit. Your best bet is to get hold of the guidebook and look it over as you're going to need one there anyway. Seeing as you can lead trad too you shouldn't miss some of the great cracks there in the Gorge. As far as new routes try this website -
www.smithrock.com
Lots of additonal information there about the area that should answer any questions you may have. Have a great time climbing there.
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mtengaio
Oct 14, 2003, 2:43 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2003
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Check out Toxic, an .11b sport that's a classic!
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rockprodigy
Oct 14, 2003, 3:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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It's SMITH ROCK, there is one Smith Rock, it is not plurral (as in many rocks), nor is it possesive. The only propper way to udder the phrase "Smith rocks" is if the word "rocks" is a verb, meaning the climbing area known as "Smith", "rocks", a la Bruce Springsteen, Guns 'n Roses or Whitesnake...get it? Please pass it on....
To answer your question. There are no good routes that are not in the guidebook.
You must do Overboard and Magic Light. They are the two best 11a/b's in the universe. (The guidebook says they are 11c and 12b, but the first pitches of each are 11a/b.)
Here are some more:
Vomit Lauch 11b
Ride the Lightning 11b
Monkey Space 11b (multipitch)
Overnight Sensation 11a
Zebra Direct 11a
Blue Light Special 11a
Bad Moon Rising 11a
Moons of Pluto 10d
Screaming Yellow Zonkers 10b
Kunza Corner 10c
Phoenix 10a
Trad lines in the main area:
Wartley's Revenge 11b (first pitch)
Lion's Chair 10c (to first anchor)
Hesitation Blues 10c
Karate Crack 10a
Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 (must do!)
have fun...it's the best sport climbing in the U.S.!
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twiz
Oct 15, 2003, 5:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
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I just spent a week down at smith for the first time. There is a supplement to the guidebook which you might want to get when youare there (if its still available). Should be able to get it at redpoint for about 5 bucks.
We started on whereever I may roam (5.9 sport), but had to bailed on the third pitch because of time and we were unsure if you needed dbl ropes to rap. Now Im wishing we had done it because every person Ihooked up with over theweek raved about the route.
Monkey face was an awesome climb. A lot of variety in difficulty. Im sure you can find something up your alley.
I might also reccomend the Gorge. Hard, steep, sustained cracks all over the place.
Have fun!
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