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nwrestler03
Oct 19, 2003, 12:21 AM
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I have been climbing for a year. Recently i began weight training and went from about 145 lbs to 165lbs in the last 8 months!! I worked as a personal trainer at a local gym. However I want to know if people would post their workout routines as they relate to climbing fitness. I want to redirect my workout goals from bulking up to focusing on improving my climbing abilities. It has gotten the point that i think my weight training is actually holding me back in the weight gain that i am experiencing. thanks a bunch, peace.
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don_pablo
Oct 19, 2003, 12:29 AM
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Like any sport, just weights won't put at the top of El Cap. the best way to exercise is to go climb, indoor, outdoor, window sills whatever.
When I am in the gym I do a lot of body weight stuff (pull ups, dips etc.) and wall sits. I don't spend hours in the gym cause you don't need to. Ando don't be stupid, watch what you eat.
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nagatana
Oct 19, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Psst...
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redpoint73
Oct 19, 2003, 3:28 AM
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As you are starting to see, bulk is bad for climbing. Especially if you are doing weight training that is increasing the bulk of your legs. Its just more baggage that you need to haul up the rock. Some limited work on the shoulders, triceps and abs is good. Some pullup or hang training might be useful, depending on your climbing level. But just climbing is much more effective for building both strength and technique.
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otherain
Oct 19, 2003, 3:54 AM
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down climb after each route. it will work your footwork.
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curt
Oct 19, 2003, 4:58 AM
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In reply to: weight training
Curt
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jono
Oct 19, 2003, 5:06 AM
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yeah the only thing weight training has done for my climbing is keep my upper body in enough shape so that if i dont climb for a few weeks im not totally weak.
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roughster
Oct 19, 2003, 9:32 AM
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roughster moved this thread from General to Technique & Training.
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marks
Oct 19, 2003, 3:39 PM
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your weight will go up the grade you climb will go down.if you want to look good walking around crags do wieghts ,if you want to climb hard get to the bouldering wall and loose all that bulk you have put on.
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climb_plastic
Oct 19, 2003, 8:54 PM
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In reply to: if you want to look good walking around crags do wieghts...
Bulky climber don't look good. They look like big dumb muscle heads.
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thegogirl
Oct 19, 2003, 10:20 PM
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I'm a diehard boulderer who used to bodybuild. (also AFAA certified personal trainer several years). Lifting has seriously been tailored for climbing. My program is basically climbing plus variety with weights done in circuit style, running, biking, swimming and have done the Navy seals workout. (yes, will make you puke).Diet is of utmost importance and is tailored. Without assessing what you are doing it's difficult to tell what effect it has. Any weight training you do is a supplement; climbing works climbing. IE: weight lifting does zero for foot work, technique, flexibility, etc. One of the old Climbing mags does focus on exercises such as lunges, rotator cuff exercises, pull ups, push ups, dips,etc. (I can't find which one, though) May wish to take a look at www.planetfear.com for some reference articles on your question.
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rockclimbr
Oct 19, 2003, 11:49 PM
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i dunno what the benefits of weight training are..i hate it, its just so boring. get out and climb more, with some peole that are better than you. They will help push you to do harder things, you'll get stronger and get better technique.
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rockczar
Oct 20, 2003, 2:48 PM
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I climbed from the age of 14 to 20, then took 3 years off. At my peak (around 17 or so) I was super strong b/c I was working out with weights roughly 3 times a week. I was able to do one finger, one arm pullups, pullups with 50lbs strapped on my waist, etc.
I just got back into climbing after being off for 3 years, and after three months of general conditioning and weight loss (roughly 15 lbs) I find I am already climbing better than when I left 3 years ago.
The reason: lack of strength now makes me focus on technique.
Whereas before I would compensate for a lack of technique by powering my way up something, now I am forced to focus on climbing well on every move of a route. While I do wish I had some of my forearm strength back, generally I don't miss the old me.
All of this is to say that for someone just beginning, the benefits of good technique will far outweigh the benefits of strength (assuming you have a base level of fitness). Focus and climb and leave the weights for later.
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dominicanclimber
Oct 20, 2003, 3:04 PM
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I am a pretty big climber im about 6"4 210 pounds, i find it very hard to do finger holds due to my weight, im always getting holes on my hands, that might be because the rock we climb here is coral, but i have never done weights i go climbing at least 3 times a week outdoors because we have no climbing gym and i just try to tackle the hardest sport route possible and i only climb lead that helps me develop skills and it makes me stronger maybe not as fast as weights but im not getting any bulkyer.
Keep on climbing on
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nwrestler03
Oct 20, 2003, 4:38 PM
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I know that climbing is the best thing for technique and skill. however isn't there a medium at which weight training still helps with climbing while also contributing to overall fitness. Can't you focus on technique while continuing to maintain lean muscle mass?
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deleted
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Oct 20, 2003, 5:32 PM
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don't listen to the naysayers; weight training helps. overall fitness is a bonus all around. most people who eschew weight training simply aren't willing to dedicate themselves to an activity they find "boring" or "painful". most folks want results without effort, and it just ain't gonna' happen.
you do, however, have to define your climbing goals.
gym & high standard sport climbing? think light ... as in: the less bulk, the better.
trad? bulk is okay so long as you have the power and endurance to get it done.
alpine & mountaineering? same as trad, with more emphasis on the endurance.
i am above all a mountaineer. i am 6'0" and 210 pounds. i cannot pull on 5.12 crimpers, nor do i really [i:ddcdeae6a8]want[/i:ddcdeae6a8] to. i am happy in the high .10 to low .11 range in trad and sport (on a good day, and depending on the route). i'll never be able to hang with the whippet-thin, wee crimper-cranking sportos ... but slap a 40 pound pack on my back, and send me on a 30-hour slog up a snow- and ice-covered 14,000 foot peak, and those sportos might as well go home.
we climbers are adept at compensating for many "disadvantages" (i.e. too tall, too short, not strong enough, too bulky, amputations, deformities, etc.), and you'll find a way to compensate for being big.
again, define your climbing goals ... then design a weight training regimen to help get you there.
regards,
geo
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gat
Oct 20, 2003, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: don't listen to the naysayers; weight training helps. overall fitness is a bonus all around
Exactly! Define your goals and work accordingly.
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alpinerock
Oct 20, 2003, 6:56 PM
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I don't think that everyone posting their workout routines will help you out much, due to the fact that everyone has different weaknesses/strenghts. a good work out routine will target your weaknesses. If your looking for a good routine for you, i suggest you read Eric Horsts book "Training for Climbing" it'll help set you up with a workout routine that will help your climbing improve.
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dominicanclimber
Oct 20, 2003, 7:06 PM
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Yes i have been told that repetition is better than increased weight, it will give you muscle definition and less body weight.
So i have been told, could it be true i think Yes!!!
Climb hard and keep on climbing on
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papounet
Oct 21, 2003, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: Yes i have been told that repetition is better than increased weight, it will give you muscle definition and less body weight. So i have been told, could it be true i think Yes!!!
Hmm, sounds like you didn't get the whole story:
very roughly,
1-6 rep => develop strength, little hypertrophy
8-12 => develop hypertrophy, some strength gain
15-above => develop endurance, little strength, gain very little hypertrophy
Based on well-researched tables, you may compute the actual weight as a % of the maximum 1 rep.
(exemple if you work in 3 rep, the weight you use should represent 91-93%)
Power lifter work in the first range
Bodybuilder work typically in the medium range
Fitness work mostly in 3rd range
Weigth training is not the evil that some climbers seem to believe.
the point from mtngeo about different needs from sport-climbers to trad to alpine climbers is very sound.
As I have shifted my sight from sport (5.11c) to alpine, I have undertaken some strength training, my indoor capabilites has slided back (5.11a/b), but I am in a much better shape after a 20k run or a full day backpacking at high speed.
In the end, choose your poison
and beware of quacks
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climb_plastic
Oct 21, 2003, 5:54 PM
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Don't forget to work out your legs. Climbers tend to forget to work the legs for power but the stronger your legs are, the stronger your whole body will get. Working the legs for power also develops your endurance.
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