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ebelay


Nov 4, 2003, 9:46 PM
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For newbies and oldies.
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There has been quite a bit of bickering around here as of late over newbies and their sometimes questionable questions and comments. Seems to me that most of what they're asking for is advice.

What follows are (off the top of my head and in no particular order) some thoughts, ideas, questions and principles based on what I've experienced and learned over my past ten years of climbing. Advice, if you will, for the new climbers who ask so many questions. Some of what's here I've been told, some I've just adapted as my own style and some I've had to learn the hard way. I'd appreciate if some of you, experienced or green, would add a few of your own.

Here goes...

How much are you willing to risk?

Remember those who've died climbing. Learn from their accidents.

Choose your partner like you'd choose a lover, but be careful about choosing your lover as your partner.

Become a well-rounded climber. Try trad, boulder and sport. Bag a peak or two. Climb some ice. There's more out there than what you know and it just may change your life.

Don't mention the rating of a route you've done unless somebody asks.

Don't spray beta. Ever. Wait to be asked. Most climbers enjoy the challenge of figuring it out for themselves.

If you happen to fail on a route or problem that you've previously done. There's no need to clarify that you've done it before. Nobody cares.

Take the strength you've gained at the gym outside. Leave everything else at the gym.

Own a helmet and wear it.

Learn how to escape a belay.

Don't be the guy at the gym or the crag who walks up and flashes a route or problem that somebody newer has been struggling on.

Do be the guy who says "nice job" when the newer climber finally sends.

Use ratings as a guide to which routes to climb - not as a way to pump your ego.

Go to an area that's well protected, leave the guidebook at home and just get on routes that look fun. Look up the ratings later. You might be surprised.

Do a Class III route.

Do a FA. If you don't know what that means, go figure it out. Don't ask on an internet message board. Then, when you're ready, go do a FA.

Don't ever bolt a crack.

Don't ever bolt a crack.

Treat your next trip like an expedition. Take a lot of pictures and have a slideshow for your friends and family. It's important that they understand your passion.

You don't know hard and you don't know suffering. Read a Joe Simpson book or one of the many classic mountaineering novels then you might have an idea.

If you climb long enough, you'll lose one of your best friends to climbing.

At some point, you'll have to choose a relationship or choose climbing. Climbing usually wins.

Know your partners strengths, weaknesses and personality traits and quirks. It could save both of your lives.

Know when to hand over - or take over - the lead, and don't be too proud to bail.

Know your limits and know when to push them.

Share your epics.

There's no glory on plastic.

Eric


iamthewallress


Nov 4, 2003, 9:49 PM
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Do a Class III route.

I like this one!


dynoguy


Nov 4, 2003, 9:57 PM
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word!


thurgood


Nov 4, 2003, 9:57 PM
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what does fa mean?


tucsonalex


Nov 4, 2003, 9:58 PM
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If you climb long enough, you'll lose one of your best friends to climbing.

At some point, you'll have to choose a relationship or choose climbing. Climbing usually wins.

Almost lost a friend to climbing.
Climbing won over a relatoinship, and no I don't regret it.


sandbag


Nov 4, 2003, 9:59 PM
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Ditto.


inflight


Nov 4, 2003, 10:16 PM
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Read all the climbing specific books you can get your hands on.

Determine if you have a pioneering spirit or a following spirit.

Followers can learn by following experience climbers and take instruction very well.

Pioneers lead the way and exhibit creativity and innovation but also follow instructions very well.

There is no glory in either. Just a reality. Some need spoon feeding some are the ones filling the spoon.

Peace!


fyreflii


Nov 4, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Go to an area that's well protected, leave the guidebook at home and just get on routes that look fun. Look up the ratings later. You might be surprised.

I met up with a guy from rc.com, we didn't know the area or the grade of a single climb. We followed the bolts and we climbed rocks . . . and I can honestly say that was the best day of climbing I've ever had.


ropeburn


Nov 4, 2003, 10:52 PM
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Ok.... I'll throw a few thoughts I have rattling around in my brain in the pot.


Take a first aid course. (Or even better a WFR)

Keep it updated.

Read ANAM.

Get an ATC and learn to use it. While your at it learn to use a munter.

Keep a eye on the weather. Be familiar with local weather patterns. Watch out for lightning and know what to do if its around. Always bring a light jacket.

Double check everything.

Leave notice of where you are and when you plan to be back.

Solo something.

Always bring a small light.

Take care of injuries. Climbing on them will only make them worse.

Don't hold back.

Listen to the old sages.

Never compromise your ethics.

Thats it for now.... If I think of more I may edit to include.

:mrgreen:


inflight


Nov 4, 2003, 10:55 PM
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In reply to:
Ok.... I'll throw a few thoughts I have rattling around in my brain in the pot.

Solo something.

:mrgreen:


All due respect my friend. I thought this was kinda funny.

http://rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Photographer=ropeburn


ropeburn


Nov 4, 2003, 11:01 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Ok.... I'll throw a few thoughts I have rattling around in my brain in the pot.

Solo something.

:mrgreen:


All due respect my friend. I thought this was kinda funny.

http://rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Photographer=ropeburn

Well, you can't win everytime.
Just make sure you can play again.
I didn't necessary mean free solo.

:mrgreen:


hello_heino


Nov 4, 2003, 11:40 PM
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There has been quite a bit of bickering around here as of late over newbies and their sometimes questionable questions and comments. Seems to me that most of what they're asking for is advice.

What follows are (off the top of my head and in no particular order) some thoughts, ideas, questions and principles based on what I've experienced and learned over my past ten years of climbing. Advice, if you will, for the new climbers who ask so many questions. Some of what's here I've been told, some I've just adapted as my own style and some I've had to learn the hard way. I'd appreciate if some of you, experienced or green, would add a few of your own.

Here goes...

How much are you willing to risk?

Remember those who've died climbing. Learn from their accidents.

Choose your partner like you'd choose a lover, but be careful about choosing your lover as your partner.

Become a well-rounded climber. Try trad, boulder and sport. Bag a peak or two. Climb some ice. There's more out there than what you know and it just may change your life.

Don't mention the rating of a route you've done unless somebody asks.

Don't spray beta. Ever. Wait to be asked. Most climbers enjoy the challenge of figuring it out for themselves.

If you happen to fail on a route or problem that you've previously done. There's no need to clarify that you've done it before. Nobody cares.

Take the strength you've gained at the gym outside. Leave everything else at the gym.

Own a helmet and wear it.

Learn how to escape a belay.

Don't be the guy at the gym or the crag who walks up and flashes a route or problem that somebody newer has been struggling on.

Do be the guy who says "nice job" when the newer climber finally sends.

Use ratings as a guide to which routes to climb - not as a way to pump your ego.

Go to an area that's well protected, leave the guidebook at home and just get on routes that look fun. Look up the ratings later. You might be surprised.

Do a Class III route.

Do a FA. If you don't know what that means, go figure it out. Don't ask on an internet message board. Then, when you're ready, go do a FA.

Don't ever bolt a crack.

Don't ever bolt a crack.

Treat your next trip like an expedition. Take a lot of pictures and have a slideshow for your friends and family. It's important that they understand your passion.

You don't know hard and you don't know suffering. Read a Joe Simpson book or one of the many classic mountaineering novels then you might have an idea.

If you climb long enough, you'll lose one of your best friends to climbing.

At some point, you'll have to choose a relationship or choose climbing. Climbing usually wins.

Know your partners strengths, weaknesses and personality traits and quirks. It could save both of your lives.

Know when to hand over - or take over - the lead, and don't be too proud to bail.

Know your limits and know when to push them.

Share your epics.

There's no glory on plastic.

Eric


So much irony.

Heino feels you have neglected the ritual of passing the collection plate after such a nice sermon. :D


braon


Nov 5, 2003, 12:37 AM
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...Bag a peak or two...
...during the winter too. Having grown up in Colorado, I had climbed several 14ers during the summer/good weather. It wasn't until I did one when it was windy/cold/snowy that I realized that I like that kind of stuff.
In reply to:
How much are you willing to risk?
...other people aren't irresponsible, stupid, crazy, wimpy, ... because their accepted level of risk is not the same as yours.
In reply to:
Do a Class III route
...do a grade IV, V, VI... I think the point here is that you should try all that climbing has to offer? I'm behind that 100%.

Learn all types of climbing - cracks, slabs, face, overhangs, roofs, ...

Learn to aid climb

Climb in lots of different areas on different types of rock

Learn all you can about climbing/rescue safety. You never know when it might save your/someone else's life.


rockclimbingpyro


Nov 5, 2003, 1:16 AM
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this is probably the best post i've seen in a while!
to add my 2cents:

- dont drink to much at the crag and try to climb
- HAVE FUN
- check out a comp and try and learn something new
- don't worry bout falling, its part of it
and last but not least
- take someone else climbing and try and teach them why its so great!!


jsh


Nov 5, 2003, 1:26 AM
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climb like a girl.
pee like a guy.

-JSH


whitefingers


Nov 5, 2003, 1:27 AM
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Take the time to give some instruction when somebody needs/wants it.


nurocks


Nov 5, 2003, 2:01 AM
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To the original poster (hello_heino)...
If read in the correct tone, your post rivals the, "choose life, choose a big screen f*cking TV..." speech/monologue in Trainspotting. Atleast equally as moving, but without the heroin overtones...


fyreflii


Nov 5, 2003, 2:16 AM
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To the original poster (hello_heino)...
If read in the correct tone, your post rivals the, "choose life, choose a big screen f*cking TV..." speech/monologue in Trainspotting. Atleast equally as moving, but without the heroin overtones...

That is the best part of the movie . . . other than the scene with the worst toilet in Scotland.


alpinerock


Nov 5, 2003, 3:06 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
If you climb long enough, you'll lose one of your best friends to climbing.

At some point, you'll have to choose a relationship or choose climbing. Climbing usually wins.

Almost lost a friend to climbing.
Climbing won over a relatoinship, and no I don't regret it.

dumped twice cause of climbing :D


alpinerock


Nov 5, 2003, 3:14 AM
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Use ratings as a guide to which routes to climb - not as a way to pump your ego.

Amen, do not climb for grades.... you will have more fun this way, this way no matter if you sent the project or not, you will go home happy. it makes me laugh when other people ask me what grade i climb, cause i honesly can't say


maculated


Nov 5, 2003, 4:43 AM
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Self rescue and First Aid: learn it, know it, love it. Not enough of us do. One day you'll wish you did.

If at some point climbing isn't fun, step back and boulder something that is V-7. Climb a class 3 route, sport a beginner route. Remember why you like climbing.

Love your fellow climbers and listen to what they offer you, you probably can use what they have to teach.

Look for innovation.


dingus


Nov 5, 2003, 4:49 AM
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To the original poster (hello_heino)...
If read in the correct tone, your post rivals the, "choose life, choose a big screen f*cking TV..." speech/monologue in Trainspotting. Atleast equally as moving, but without the heroin overtones...

At least heino's post was in English.

DMT


dingus


Nov 5, 2003, 4:50 AM
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Don't let anyone tell you how to climb.

DMT


dynoguy


Nov 5, 2003, 7:32 AM
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make sure you wear lots of prAna stuff. If you don't you won't fit in and the other climbers will make fun of you. :lol:


climbsomething


Nov 5, 2003, 8:16 AM
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...DON'T be afraid to correct somebody if/when they need it, and don't necessarily candy-coat it...

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