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susiederkins
Nov 7, 2003, 6:25 PM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2003
Posts: 13
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I'm looking for some [woman-specific] advice on how to train to move into a more advanced level of bouldering. I've been climbing for about a year-and-a-half, have done some comps, and currently climb at about a V3 redpoint level, on a good day.
I feel like I'm hitting a wall when I try V4/5 type problems -- like I can't even manage the first move and the sequences really seem to jump in reach and power recruitment. As others in this forum have noted, the lack of other female boulderers at my gym can be frustrating -- I'll be stuck on a problem and some guy will come over to show me how easy it is by campusing through the part that I'm stuck on. That's not very helpful!
I've picked up a few climbing/training books and am thinking about working on a periodization plan for the season. But I'm wondering if you can offer any advice, on specific exercises (or is it just practice, practice practice over time?) to focus on which you feel hekped you improve at bouldering?
Much thanks!
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ecocliffchick
Nov 10, 2003, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2002
Posts: 613
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I'm not much of a boulderer, and I'm probably climbing at about the same level as you are so I don't know whether the advice I can offer will help or not. I've been spending this year working out in addition to climbing and bouldering. I'm finding that I'm getting an increase in power in both my legs and upper body that are helping me to climb more dynamically and reach holds I couldn't get to before. My limiting factor for climbing has always been a lack of dynamic power. I'd technique things to death before just lunging at a hold, but now I'm finding that the lunging method works and often conserves a lot of the delicate balance and finger strength that might be needed later on in the problem.
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crazygirl
Nov 10, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
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unfortunaly, i did not find books on training very helpful. here is my take on it: pick some projects just above your level and keep trying, no matter how impossible it looks. having problems with the first move? skip it, try the second. practice all the campus and dyno moves, they might come handy one day. also, get someone to spot you, sometimes that really helps.
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