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bspisak
Nov 13, 2003, 11:34 PM
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In reply to: www.mountaintools.com look at "big wall"-aiders They will custom make about any size or style you want.
Do you use these? They look like they use rings as a buckle. Do they slip? They do say it will slip if overloaded... I wonder what the activation energy is? Is that a grab loop at the top?
Just FYI, Pika sells adjustable daisies as well, but I don't know what kinda bucke that is.
Brian
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malabarista
Nov 14, 2003, 12:07 AM
Post #27 of 45
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In reply to: Get YATES adjustable daisys and YATES Shield harness.
That's it.
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dsafanda
Nov 14, 2003, 12:28 AM
Post #28 of 45
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In reply to: spike wrote: In reply to: Get YATES adjustable daisys and YATES Shield harness. That's it.
Well, that's not quite it.
You also need to get the Yates chest harness. 8)
That actually may be the bigger key to comfort on the wall than which waist harness you go with.
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jaystory
Nov 14, 2003, 12:42 AM
Post #29 of 45
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I've got a Yates Shield for sale. I lost weight and now it's too big. I'm just a beginner too and I didn't know what I was doing when I bought it.
John
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valygrl
Nov 14, 2003, 1:03 AM
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[quote="dsafanda"]In reply to: It's news to me that Yates once made a version that had a buckle anywhere other than at the clipping end of the chain.
Hmm, it's probably 3 or 4 years old.
In reply to: How is the buckle out of reach if presumably you had to reach that high at one point to place the piece anyway?
Sigh. Ok, this is what happened. I guess it won't be a problem during actual *climbing* as you point out. :oops:
1) clip the anchor with the daisy
2) cinch daisy tight enough to just be able sit down on the portaledge and get comfy for belaying
3) try to reach to the other end of the ledge to grab the bottle of gatorade, but can't reach because daisy is too short
4) have to stand up on the ledge to reach the buckle to extend the daisy so I can get enough slack to reach the gatorade.
Haaaa hahahaha. This story would be sooo much better if it was beer, not gatorade.
Anna
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euroford
Nov 14, 2003, 1:22 AM
Post #31 of 45
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In reply to: In reply to: spike wrote: In reply to: Get YATES adjustable daisys and YATES Shield harness. That's it. Well, that's not quite it. You also need to get the Yates chest harness. 8) That actually may be the bigger key to comfort on the wall than which waist harness you go with.
or do you mean the big wall gear rack? heck ya man, i want one of those! first i'm working on the rack which will require it :)
pretty rabid yates fanbase around here. but ya know, when yer right, yer right.
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dsafanda
Nov 14, 2003, 1:25 AM
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In respons to valygrl one post above.
I gotcha. That sort of thing does happen I suppose.
Now that I think about it though...what you described could and does sometimes happen when you're actually climbing. Suppose you've commited to the next move or begin to bust a free move above your last piece with the plan of reaching down and unclipping the daisy once you're in a better position. You're halfway through the move and then you realize that you're in too tight with the daisy on the previous piece. If you can simply down climb it's no big deal but if you're turning a roof or moving over a ledge and gotten half way before realizing this it's a bit akward to say the least. You have to reach way down and adjust the buckle with one hand while not quite on the next piece or free climbing and not on a piece at all. It's hard to describe but you're absolutely right.
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wedgy
Nov 14, 2003, 7:40 AM
Post #33 of 45
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Go to "big wall" to "aiders" then "grad-u-aiders".
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wedgy
Nov 14, 2003, 7:48 AM
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Go to "big wall" then "aiders" then "grad-u-aiders".
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wedgy
Nov 14, 2003, 8:56 AM
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Go to "big wall" then "aiders" then "grad-u-aiders".
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wedgy
Nov 14, 2003, 5:14 PM
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www.mountiantools.com then "big wall" then "aiders" then "grad-u-aiders". Several types of adjustable aiders and speed chains(daisy chain).
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krustyklimber
Nov 16, 2003, 4:37 AM
Post #37 of 45
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And after you get a Yates Big Wall rack/chest harness, make sure to set it up the better way!!!
I used mine both the stock way and Pete's better way (with tethers), no doubt about it go Pete's way.
Jeff http://pages.prodigy.net/.../emoticons/wave1.gif
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euroford
Nov 16, 2003, 7:14 AM
Post #38 of 45
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In reply to: And after you get a Yates Big Wall rack/chest harness, make sure to set it up the better way!!! I used mine both the stock way and Pete's better way (with tethers), no doubt about it go Pete's way. Jeff http://pages.prodigy.net/.../emoticons/wave1.gif
yup, thats one (of many) hunk of good advice.
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karlbaba
Nov 16, 2003, 4:22 PM
Post #39 of 45
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I use the Yates adjustables because I find that the load release feature is key. Love em.
I have had the Old Yates big wall (a couple of them actually, they were great but the buckle was a hassle) A Misty Mountain Big Wall (Cadillac?) which seemed nice but the waist belt is wimpier than it looks, and a Yates Shield, which rocks. Even free climbing I wind up hanging at multipitch belays a lot and wear my Sheild for everyday comfort as well as big walls. Awesome. I've almost worn it out but won't go back to my, stillinnewconditon misty mountain
Peace
karl
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njbourne
Nov 18, 2003, 8:20 PM
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I am Jeremy's inflamed kidney.
I really wish he had bought a big wall specific harness with a super fat waist belt.
Because he didn't he was almost pissing blood and his summer trip to the Valley was basically over.
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heximp
Nov 24, 2003, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 169
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Yates harnesses are the only way to go...
I am a skinny girl who...
One) doesn't want to feel like she is losing her virginity to a harness.
Two) bruises easy.
Three) needed a harness to last five days on a big wall that will also stay secure and comfortable even when I am making mistakes, crying for no reason and discovering God while placing trust on a rusted bolt ladder...
After wearing a few harnesses, my favorite will always be Yates for being there without adding pain to my own creations... Plus Yates harnesses besides being just great, they also have a colorful fashion sense that is all about big walls...
Smiles,
Scurvy
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ricardol
Nov 24, 2003, 6:35 PM
Post #42 of 45
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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In reply to: And after you get a Yates Big Wall rack/chest harness, make sure to set it up the better way!!! I used mine both the stock way and Pete's better way (with tethers), no doubt about it go Pete's way. Jeff http://pages.prodigy.net/.../emoticons/wave1.gif
the new yates chest harness has the clip in points for the tethers already -- and also has the front sub-rack clip in points ..
ver slick ..
... he liked the new setu so much on mine that we midified his chest harness to include clip in points above the shoulders ..
-- ricardo
*sheesh* i can't spell in the morning before coffee .. sorry..
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dsafanda
Nov 24, 2003, 6:41 PM
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I'm always skeptical of the "better way" but I try to keep an open mind. Anyone feel like posting a link to a description of the tether/Yates chest harness you're talking about? I'm curious.
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bigwalling
Nov 24, 2003, 6:53 PM
Post #44 of 45
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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The tethers are clusterfuck, same with the "better way" to rack slings, the subrack thing is for the most part junk except I do use it on a rare occasion.
This is of course my own opinion and I use what works best for me and Pete does the same, so I'm not in any way bashing what he does! I tried what he does for a while and this led to my own ways. The main modification I use is putting my hooks on a sling, which is attached between the two shoulder straps on the back, this is where I sometimes start to use my subracks if the next stretch of climbing has many hook moves. I'll try and post a pic.
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bigwalling
Nov 24, 2003, 6:55 PM
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Oh, I think someone else uses this way for racking hooks, but I can't remember who, I might have even started using it when I read they did it, since I had been thinking about trying it but wasn't sure how well it would work.
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