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evan
Nov 19, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
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I had a good session last night, and just wanted to note some thoughts for posterity.
I tailor my winter training schedule around cycles of 3 to 4 days. Each cycle has one session, like last night, specifically dedicated to mental training. This winter, I've used "The Warrior's Way" as a guide to develop specific exercises catered to examine barriers to my personal growth. Here's how it broke down:
FOCUS
I did three exercises. They all were picked/dveloped in order to focus away on my *general* fear of falling and focus on what I can do to overcome the individual fears that comprise my overall fear of falling. After going through the metaphor exercise, I realized that my fear of falling comes from my fear of unknowns, and being unprepared.
1> Grace and Commitment
2> Saving Energy
3> Climb Under Pressure
I told my belayer what I was doing ahead of time, with the only instruction to remind me to BREATHE if he noticed me holding my breath or looking a bit nervous.
DESCRIPTIONS
1> Grace and Commitment
Exercise:
Overhanging Wall / On Lead - This is an exercise where I've been using "cutting loose" as a tool to discover why I'm afraid of falling on overhanging routes.
Make the conscious decision to dyno or deadpoint to holds, on lead, with your last draw at varying distances from your centre. I was building on exercises I did last week, so my deadpoints are usually done with the last draw at or below my feet.
Be graceful. Instead of concentrating solely on the desire to hit the hold - as I did last week - focus on being smooth, fluid, perfectly quiet, weightless. No screaming, kicking the wall when you re-establish your feet, and no cringing.
2> Saving Energy
Exercise:
Overhanging Wall / On Lead - This is one exercise I've been using to combat a fear I know I have: clipping while pumped on an overhanging route.
Pick some climbs and commit yourself to clipping the majority of draws at your waist. Hang with straight arms when you clip. Plan out the clips and moves for maximum efficiency, ensuring that the hand you'll be hanging off of will be fresh and not pumped for the next clip.
Focus on climbing quickly, but cleanly and smoothly. Keep in mind that you will be pumped for some clips. Remember that you have done all you can do to remain relaxed, and that you are climbing and clipping as efficiently as you can. You have prepared as well as you can, and you will make the clip.
3> Climb Under Pressure
Exercise:
Pick a route that you've fallen on previously, but something that you have yet to link clean OR pick a route to onsight where there is a very *real* possibility of falling. Notify your belayer that you need a challenging route, something that will take you out of your comfort zone. Be honest. You need a route that's going to make you uncomfortable.
Take note of your feelings before and as you climb. Register and witness the discomfort as the climbing becomes increasingly more difficult. STAY WITH THE CLIMB. Focus on individual sets of moves from one stage to another. Know what you can give to the climb. No taking. Observe when you start to panic.
OBSERVATIONS
1> Grace and Commitment
This was a continuation to a similar exercise the previous week. I've slowly managed to take my love of dynamic moves and slowly but surely transfer that to climbing on lead. I found when I focused on how good it felt to do the move, cut loose / deadpoint / readjust my feet while hanging, my love of the climbing itself helped reduce the amount of fear present. Twice, without any deliberation or hesitation, I found myself executing small and controlled jumps - no yelling / uncontrolled swinging / grimacing - on lead because it simply felt right.
Interestingly enough, I found that occasionally cutting loose to readjust - as opposed to staticing every move - actually saves energy. Or, maybe I'm just more relaxed because I was enjoying myself.
2> Saving Energy
Not much to report here. I still felt strained, but knowing that I had *planned* and done all I could to prepare alleviated much of the mental agony I experience when making a clip. Having my belayer call up to me to breath helped me relax a great deal.
3> Climb Under Pressure
This was the most interesting exercise. I got my belayer to rank three climbs, (two I hadn't attempted, and one awaiting a redpoint) in order of apparent difficulty. After ranking, I picked the "hardest," a vertical route which starts with boulder problem traverse (10 to 12 hand moves), and then weaves through 4 bolts past small nubbins, crimps and pockets to the top.
I fell on a desparation lunge for the finishing hold at the anchors. I didn't stop - as I did before - to assess what had to be done in order to execute the move. I made a very quick decision - pumped - to lunge for the last hold, instead of delaying a second. However, I did fight through the insecurities though the rest of the route and climb until I fell. I observed that as long as I stayed in "problem solving" mode, my fear abated and in some cases was absent. I took the fall, and was incredibly happy with not just my effort on the climb, but the fact that I tried it without making excuses.
Most telling was the route-setter's comment. I was the first person to try the route, and he was expecting some profanity on my part when I got the upper crux. Instead, I focused all my energy on working through the crux.
FOR THE FUTURE
A couple of exercises I'd like to try:
1> Rythym on Overhanging Climbs
Accelerating into cruxes instead of putting on the brakes and hesitating too long.
2> Stop and Listen
Especially useful on technical vertical routes. Stop, chalk up and scan the route instead of lunging for holds without a plan.
3> Falling while Clipping
Pick something overhanging, clean falls. Get a good belayer. Take a fall with extra rope out, just to experience it.
Any thoughts would be welcome...
Cheers,
Evan
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jt512
Nov 19, 2003, 7:38 PM
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Great post. Great exercises. I've just been bouldering in the gym, but after reading your post, I think I'll start leading in there again.
In reply to: Exercise: ... clipping while pumped on an overhanging route. You have prepared as well as you can, and you will make the clip.
"Will make the clip" or "The clip is possible"? "Will make the clip" sounds to me like it contains a hint of destination thinking, and also might not be entirely honest. Isn't there a chance that you'll fall while clipping? Isn't the point of the exercise, in part, to put yourself in a position where falling during the clip is a real possibility? I think I would approach this exercise by assessing the risk of climbing to the next clipping stance and making the clip. If I chose to accept the risk, then focus on the entire effort, including making the clip itself.
In reply to: OBSERVATIONS Interestingly enough, I found that occasionally cutting loose to readjust - as opposed to staticing every move - actually saves energy. Or, maybe I'm just more relaxed because I was enjoying myself.
Yes, I think it sometimes actually saves energy and the reason we don't do it more often is a fear-based tendency to make the moves statically.
-Jay
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mrme
Jan 3, 2004, 6:28 AM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
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just don't get the rope caught in the teeth making those cliping falls
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mrme
Jan 3, 2004, 6:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
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love the post though got some stuff to try now thanks
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arnoilgner
Jan 7, 2004, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2003
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Nice post evan.
Just don't TRY it. Set an intention for what you want to practice and then observe your ability to stay with your intention. There is no need to TRY.
arno
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