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"easy" traditional routes
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mfgithen


Nov 25, 2003, 4:22 AM
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"easy" traditional routes  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Moab: Wall_Street)
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is there anywhere near moab that offers a high concentration of relatively easy (5.5-5.8) traditional routes? do "easy trad routes even exist in the area or do people not bother with them?

i'll be there with a group over thanksgiving but don't know what to expect. easy routes will be ideal for the group. thank you for feedback


mfgithen


Nov 25, 2003, 4:37 AM
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Re: "easy" traditional routes [In reply to]
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bump


rockprodigy


Nov 25, 2003, 4:07 PM
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Re: "easy" traditional routes [In reply to]
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There aren't many routes near moab that are that easy. Your best bet will be the ice cream parlor down Kane Creek.

Stop being cheap, and buy a guidebook...the info is in there. It will be crowded, so get started early if you want to climb.

An even better idea is to go to Red Rocks. Tons of easy routes there.


atg200


Nov 25, 2003, 4:09 PM
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what rockprodigy said. the very few easy routes i have done around moab usually seem hard for the grade, and are very far apart.

the easy routes on the sunshine wall in arches are supposed to be good. route descriptions are in desert rock 4 or on climbingmoab. it won't be crowded there.


cyberclimber


Nov 25, 2003, 4:45 PM
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Re: "easy" traditional routes [In reply to]
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BUMP
Don't accuse the guy of being cheap. I'm hoping to come through Moab again this spring and would like some similar information, and there sure aren't any Moab guidebooks anywhere around here to buy at any price. Last time I only climbed Wallstreet, this time I would like to find some climbs my wife and daughter can have fun on (I trad lead up to 5.9 but they only top-rope up to 5.8). Once I get into Moab, what guidebook should I look for that covers the area, Arches, Indian Creek, etc? Is Desert Rock the book for me?


rockprodigy


Nov 25, 2003, 5:14 PM
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Don't accuse the guy of being cheap.... and there sure aren't any Moab guidebooks anywhere around here to buy at any price

...and you obviously don't have access to the internet where a guiebook could be purchased.... Desert Rock 3 has Kane creek in it.

Often the bolts you clip were paid for by the guy who wrote the guidebook. If he could afford thousands in hardware, you can afford $30 for his book.

In Moab, I would recommend going to Gearheads...it's on the main highway, just south of the City Market. There is another store in town, but I had a bad experience there and don't recommend them.


atg200


Nov 25, 2003, 5:22 PM
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yeah, though you have to be scared and wishing for a bolt kit when you are on a route with bjornstad bolts still present ;)

climbingmoab.com has a good route overview online. for books, it depends what you want to climb. eventually you will end up with a large pile of guidebooks. desert rock 1, 2, 3, and 4 are all worth having, though full of exciting inaccurate information that leads to all sorts of epics. by far and away the most complete info you will get is in these. the original desert rock is great for poaching towers on navajo lands, pounding iron in arches, and a few wierd scattered towers that aren't covered elsewhere. the cam burns desert rock select is a decent book with a good overview of routes, but you have to be a solid 5.10 free climber or an aid climber to take advantage of it. the fred knapp desert book sucks and is not really worth having. the stewart greene rock climbing utah is an ok reference that may be your best bet if you only buy one book, but you won't use it anymore if you have all the other books. someday hopefully the new indian creek guidebook will come out.

all of these books except the original desert rock can be bought from a wide variety of online sites like amazon, and from quite a few climbing stores in the west.


mfgithen


Nov 25, 2003, 5:41 PM
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thanks for the low down


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