|
backtrack
Mar 1, 2002, 7:23 AM
Post #1 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 20
|
i've read vague references to injuring tendons and whatnot via climbing (wrongly or too much?), as well as methods for taping as to support finger tendons, etc. i know this must completely display my ignorance, but can someone explain more on the vulnerability and importances of protecting tendons? (in another thread, someone posted to me that i was on a short-list for tendon injury after climbing for a dozen days straight...) is this true?
What sorts of practices are condusive to this sort of injury?
I'm trying to build finger strength as well as callouses, but am trying to be conscientious as well of long-term health and safety; also, due to a badly-placed hold today started feeling great pains to my handbones as i was trying to stick it... hence, the sudden concern on tendons
thanks,
--sasha
[ This Message was edited by: backtrack on 2002-02-28 23:24 ]
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Mar 1, 2002, 8:04 AM
Post #2 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
First of all, the tendons connect one bone via muscle to another bone, and can only be over-stressed under severe muscle tension. Ligaments directly connect two bones across joints, are much shorter, and can be stressed just by hanging. Fingerlocks in thin cracks tweak your ligaments mostly, not tendons. Tape will not help protect tendons too much. But, tape can significantly reduce the stress on your finger ligaments. The usual fingerlock method is to twist the hand to lock in, producing severe torsional stress at finger joint ligaments. Tape can significantly reduce this stress by taking some of the torsional (twisting) load. Taping diagonally (both directions) across the joints puts the tape fibers in the best orientation. Plus, orienting the tape fibers diagonally reduces their interference with normal motion.
[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-03-03 02:15 ]
|
|
|
|
|
dontneedfeet
Mar 1, 2002, 8:50 AM
Post #3 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 124
|
Well, I'm actually out right now with a injury that I think is a tendon. Saw a doc, who blatantly said she had no idea what was wrong. I could be a doctor...
Anyway, sorry - in my case, I'm guessing it was overtraining. I had been off the rock for awhile, then dove back in, way too quickly. It was at the gym, where more injuries seem to occur. Point is: the body's always right. If something feels tweaky, get off. This way things don't violently shift internally if your forearm.
Sorry about the whining.
|
|
|
|
|
backtrack
Mar 3, 2002, 7:01 AM
Post #4 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 20
|
no whining, dontneed... thanks for the input. hope the forarms get better soon.
--sasha
|
|
|
|
|
crux_clipper
Mar 3, 2002, 9:34 AM
Post #5 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2001
Posts: 531
|
The tendons that along the finger are held to the bone by little arches of cartlidge. If these arches were'nt there, the tendon would create a 'bow' effect when the finger was bent, from the base of the finger to the tip. Anyways, i popped one of the arches, and the doctor said give it some rest, and it will either heal or it won't. But rest should cure it.
|
|
|
|
|
spodski
Mar 19, 2002, 11:51 AM
Post #6 of 6
(2343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 99
|
if you have torn a tendon or a ligament? the best thing is to rest for a few weeks untill it doesnt hurt in normal range of motion, but then u have to start doing some exercise to stress the tissue so the repairng fibres try and grow the same way,otherwise you get scar tissue forming making the fibres grow in all sorts of directions making the tissue weaker again. but if you go to hard to fast your just gonna corse another injury
|
|
|
|
|
|
