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elcapinyoazz
Dec 3, 2003, 8:56 AM
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So Ammon,
I was reading a TR on your site (seems like it was the Latitudes one) and remember you mentioning something about McCray only using one aider? Whas up with that? Only one total, or one on the piece and one free that goes on the next piece?
Must be fast enough, but you don't use that system....just curious because it seems like kind of an oddball setup.
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rogueclimber
Dec 3, 2003, 9:48 AM
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8) http://rocknrun.net/heaven.html 8)
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dsafanda
Dec 3, 2003, 3:06 PM
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In reply to: just curious because it seems like kind of an oddball setup.
I've never used just one aider but it is not that uncommon for moderate aid like that found on routes such as the Nose.
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flamer
Dec 3, 2003, 3:25 PM
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I'm curious about this as well....so Give it up Ammon or Brian.
josh
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climbhigher
Dec 3, 2003, 10:28 PM
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Ammon explain to me how Brain does it onetime. All i can remember is Brain uses one aider and two daiseys. He just leaps the aider from one daisy to the next. I have used this method. It's pretty fast and there's absolutely no tangles. Ammon perfers two aiders. Brain always carrys a spare aider just in case he drops one which he did on Latitudes.
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elcapbuzz
Dec 3, 2003, 10:56 PM
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That sounds about right, climbhigher.
The first thing we have to remember is that everyone is going to find an easier or different way for THEM. I like the way Brian leap-frogs his one aider but it just doesn't work for me.
Brian uses two adjustable daisies. Clips the gear with one. Tests it. Reaches down and unclips his only aider and clips the rope into the piece, saving him an extra move. Then clips the aider to the above piece. He's really smooth when doing this and moves quite fast.
One of the biggest differences in Brian's and my climbing style is that he is a 5.13/14 climber and gets out of his aiders more than I do. He transfers (if you will) from free to aid quite frequently, resulting in dragging two aiders a real headache, at times.
The downside of this method is having your only aider unclipped, often. Not usually a problem unless your fingers are numb and you fumble it.... or think it's clipped in and and just let it drop.
On our latest trip to Zion, after climbing Spaceshot (Brian led the entire route). Brian agreed that he could have gone faster with the two aider method, at the start of the headwall.
I rarely use adjustable daisies. I don't like to be locked into a certain length. I like the freedom to move around fast, without having to reach down and adjust the daisy. I float one on really steep routes or short sections of roof.
I use two traditional daisies with one Yates aider on each (I like the Yates because I can find the step without looking at my feet).
So, find what works for you.
Anyway, that's the scoop.............
Cheers, Ammon
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sspssp
Dec 4, 2003, 12:14 AM
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This is the aid method that I use and I like it. However, instead of a single, "big wall" aider, I use two alpine aiders clipped to a single binear. The alpine aiders are light and not bulky and I really like the freedom that two aiders provide, particularly when aiding up corners.
Yea, you run a risk of dropping your aiders. But as my parnter kept saying (every time I questioned the wisdom of aiding without everything being clipped in), "when was the last time you dropped a piece of gear free climbing" (it's been, knock on wood, years). If the leader drops his aiders, then the second is going to have to deal with jugging in slings. A nuisance, but not fatal.
Another advantage I found, it really reduces the cluster F___, when your aider is NOT permanently clipped into a daisy (although perhaps that just reflects a lack of skill on my part).
I would really like to try this system with Russian aiders, but Fish never got them out.
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