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hops_scout
Dec 2, 2003, 3:30 AM
Post #51 of 68
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Registered: Aug 10, 2003
Posts: 51
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Somebody asked about using work gloves (leather ones)...
That's what I've used while climbing with Boy Scouts on a tower in which they gave those to us. And we used figure 8's for rappelling, BTW.
I've also used leather work gloves while descending with a cable and they work great!
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jimdavis
Dec 2, 2003, 5:40 AM
Post #52 of 68
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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Gloves are great for long raps.
I use em when I belay a whole rescue TEAM on a Brake-Bar Rack. I can hold more and wrap the rope around my hand a lot easier than if they were bare.
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cjstudent
Dec 2, 2003, 12:45 PM
Post #53 of 68
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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In reply to: Why take a belay device AND a fig. 8. It's just more weight. I've found my HB ample for controlled abseils, although it does tend to get a little hot. I've never worn gloves, and i don't think i will. I'm not making rapid descents, so i find that gloves are not neccessary. However, i work in a hardware shop, and can get riggers gloves (leather) for real cheap.
I take a belay device (Trango Jaws) and Figure 8 when I climb, and it came in handy Sunday night when I dropped my belay device because my hands were so cold and I was fumbling around with stuff. I was able to use the 8 as a belay device in a pinch that worked pretty good (I didn't use it in rap mode if that is what you are wondering, I pushed the rope through the small hole and clipped it to a biner)
Thats why I carry an 8 and belay device. I prefer raping off my 8 but sometimes I use the Trango Jaws
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kathy
Dec 2, 2003, 1:30 PM
Post #54 of 68
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
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I use the 8 - use gloves - if there are no gloves available (eg forgot them at home - which I do often :oops: ) I attach a prussik as a back up.
how does one use the gri gri as a descender ? ( a genuine question) coz i always though you could, but never found any literature about it - not even in the gri gri instruction leaflet...
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naitch
Dec 2, 2003, 3:08 PM
Post #55 of 68
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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I don't think anyone's mentioned it yet, but I like my B-52 for descending. On my PMI 10.5 rope it is silky smooth and very controllable. I tried many of the - ATC, 8, Reverso, Omega SBGII, and Trango Pyramid but the B-52 is my choice. I like the 8 but there's no way I'm carrying another piece of gear and the rope twist is the pits.
I also have a Grigri and it suxs for descending. Too sensitive and grabby, though it's nice to have the autolock feature. It's also no good if you're descending on a doubled rope which is what we do most of the time.
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cryder
Dec 2, 2003, 4:37 PM
Post #56 of 68
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 391
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Favorite descending device? Gravity. Never fails. It's getting to stop working that is the tricky part.
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capn_morgan
Dec 2, 2003, 5:15 PM
Post #57 of 68
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I carry a reverso to belay with so thats what I rap on. Works just fine. If I need more friction I can flip it or use 2 biners.
Wear gloves for belaying, lead always, 2nd sometimes, and useally on rappel. When it drops below about 40 I climb in em too if the going is easy :)
I was also wondering about rapping with a grigri, do you tie into one end and then have the rope running through the anchor?
have an atc which works great but dont carry it as a backup because I just dont drop things....and if I need a backup device I usally have lots of free biners that will work just fine for a biner brake.
Oh..and rapping really fast doesnt seem like the best idea...aside from creating alot of heat which can do nasty things to your rope, its puts alot of unessecary stress on your anchor/rope/harness/body when you bounce to a stop.
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melekzek
Dec 2, 2003, 6:06 PM
Post #58 of 68
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
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In reply to: Favorite descending device? Gravity. Never fails. It's getting to stop working that is the tricky part.
In reply to: the secret to flying is to fall down and miss the ground. |
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rock_buddy
Dec 2, 2003, 6:14 PM
Post #59 of 68
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Registered: Nov 26, 2003
Posts: 52
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I like using the ATC but 8s are cool too.
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nbrown
Dec 2, 2003, 6:14 PM
Post #60 of 68
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Registered: Apr 12, 2002
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I like the petzl reverso it goes pretty fast.
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rock_buddy
Dec 2, 2003, 6:16 PM
Post #61 of 68
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Registered: Nov 26, 2003
Posts: 52
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airial traffic device please
I repel with no gloves
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djnibs
Dec 2, 2003, 6:24 PM
Post #62 of 68
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
Posts: 464
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I prefer to use a rescue 8. Although, while climbing, atc is the next best thing.
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ride
Dec 2, 2003, 7:15 PM
Post #63 of 68
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Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 216
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I almost always use the carabiner brake.
1) dont have to buy anything else
2) doesn't twist the rope
3) if you drop your fancy schmancy ATC or whatever what are you going to do now?
4) see #1 again
:)
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david.yount
Deleted
Dec 11, 2003, 4:25 PM
Post #64 of 68
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Omega Pacific SBG II - this tool handles so many variations - like simul-rapping on 7.6mm twins (which means we each get a single 7.6mm to rap down.......) Or rapping on 9.4mm with my pack and her pack hanging from my belay loop, so I rig the SBG II through the side with JAWS, or for even more moxy I can rig it on the higher hole.
NO other tuber device could do that, not the Trango Jaws (used to be my #1 until the SBG II), maybe the Hugh Banner Marshall but it would be a chore stuffing my 9.4mm single line through those small slots (used to be my "doubles" and "twins" belay/rap device until the SBG II) ((most people might never had the opportunity to see the HB Marshall, it's just like the Sheriff but the slots are smaller, for twins and doubles))
(((oh, I've 1 HB Marshall for sale, very good condition, red; and 1 Trango Jaws, good condition, green)))
And, you can rig it like an 8!
If I have 'em, yeah, gloves feel nice. Makes it so very tempting to enjoy the S - P - E - E - D . . . . . . .
Carabiner Brake is sweet to place on the 6mm line when rigging a full length alpine rap with 9.4mm and 6mm tied together, on a tuber device. By adding sufficient additional friction to the 6mm line, the joining knot doesn't smash into the rap anchor - the lines don't translate.
I like to single-line rap with my Piggy Back GriGri (see post in Alpine).
I've logged about 1000-feet on near-vertical terrain (in 50-foot hops tree to tree) using a Dulfersitz. You want to put the adventure back in rappeling, forget the Figure-8-backside-of-harness-head-first-mambo, that's fun, but Hans Dulfer developed state of the art in adventure rappeling.
Though heavy and not as multi-functional as other belay/rap devices, Figure-8's sure are SEXY! -- David.
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sharpie
Dec 11, 2003, 5:01 PM
Post #65 of 68
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Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
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Sirius TRE...It Rocks!
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nickolatte
Dec 15, 2003, 6:22 AM
Post #66 of 68
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 2
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I like the new reverso from Petzl the rope goes through quickly and does not heat up
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diodesanddihedrals
Dec 15, 2003, 6:36 AM
Post #67 of 68
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 52
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ATC all the way. If I rappel for fun I use an 8 or a biner wrap (old school)
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david.yount
Deleted
Dec 15, 2003, 8:54 PM
Post #68 of 68
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Rappeling is a controlled descent of a rope. A carabiner wrap is a dubious form of controlling a rope as a safe manner.
The carabiner heats up faster than my old MSR XGK on high.
The carabiner twists against the attachment carabiner putting torsional forces between 2 carabiners, though that may not be large, still represent forces that no aluminum carabiner should be thusly stressed.
If the wrap biner is connected to the climber by a sling, the wrap biner will by namesake wrap itself around the brake rope so the brake rope slides on the sling (nylon sliding on nylon is not something that should be allowed).
By using 2 large (rescue-sized) steel locking biners the military-prefered carabiner wrap rappel can be rigged more safely. But there's still the issue of extraordinary heat in the wrap biner.
Cavers developed several designs of descending devices based on the historic biner wrap. Replacing the solid spine of a carabiner is a hollow tube over 1-inch in diameter which dissipates heat well.
If I only had 1 biner and had to descend a rope I'd rig a Munter knot. With 3 biners you could build a carabiner brake (with limited friction however).
--David.
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