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badphish
Oct 23, 2003, 1:22 AM
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doesn't matter how big cal is. Nor Cal alone encompasses
some of the best rock i've ever climbed on. Tahoe alone
could compete with many states for bouldering
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wyattearp
Nov 8, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Yo if anyone wants to check out the ultimate undiscovered meccas come down to Santa Fe new mexico. With boulders bigger than yosemite and bishop. As well as 3 if not more of the hardest lines I have ever seen. As well as an abundance of rock everywhere. New spots are constantly being discovered. You think you can pull V15 V16? Come down to Santa fe and will throw you on these lines. So where is Sharma and Nicole?
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riceplate
Nov 8, 2003, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: Yo if anyone wants to check out the ultimate undiscovered meccas come down to Santa Fe new mexico. With boulders bigger than yosemite and bishop. As well as 3 if not more of the hardest lines I have ever seen. As well as an abundance of rock everywhere. New spots are constantly being discovered. You think you can pull V15 V16? Come down to Santa fe and will throw you on these lines. So where is Sharma and Nicole?
The hardcore boulderers all know about the existence of NM bouldering and the strong boulderers who live there, but it is all so incognito, that you shouldn't expect any visitors until you publicize the areas. People aren't willing to drive 2 days to look for the yeti...
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sbclimber
Nov 8, 2003, 8:51 PM
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I wouldn't drive 2 days to look for anything but a long trad route.
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wyattearp
Nov 8, 2003, 9:29 PM
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You dont have to drive any 2 days to find good climbing in new Mexico. Look at the listings there are 4 places within the santa fe area/county! My boys have found another 3-4 spots with immense amounts of rock. Mini utah maybe, maybe better qwuite possible. At the grotto inSF there is an overhang over 150+ feet long with a width of 40 feet and top ots range from 20-25 feet. ITs all here, come take a road trip and see for yourself what New Mexico has to offer. Locals are more then willing to take out of towners to some nice spots as well as some fucking insane secret spots. Come check us out.
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timm1083
Nov 12, 2003, 4:09 PM
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i second to PA, i'm from PA and we have a large quality of boulders just because were such a huge state with lots of wooded areas. But as far as a mecca, you have to to WV or kentucky or kansas, but trust me PA can hang with the big boys
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fng
Nov 27, 2003, 7:47 AM
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I GOTTA GO WITH CAL. I LIVE IN CENTRAL CAL AND ALL THOUGH THERE ARE CROWDS IN THE WELL KNOWN AREAS(YOSEMITE, ETC.), THERE IS HIDDEN BOULDERING AREAS WITH NO CROWDS EVERYWHERE. I CAN DRIVE BETWEEN 30 MIN TO AN HOUR AND BE BOULDERING BY MYSELF ALL DAY. ITS THE SAME THROUGH OUT THE STATE FROM THE COAST TO THE EAST SIDE OF THE SIERRAS.
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roclimb
Nov 28, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I think Co and CA have a large concentration and one of the highest.
I would say PA takes the cake for the East. I have not found a 20 mile radius anywhere in PA that does not have some boulodering. Most of the state has Epic stuff and quality problems.
A lot of secret spots in the Wilkes Barre / Scranton area have better rock than the Gunk's! Or at least as good. NH has great stuff and VT and ME but a lot of the bouldering is shrouded in talus and thick pines. Central PA has dozens of fantastic sandstone areas all over with perfect landings and hueco ridden pockets all over the boulders. Western PA has huge boulders of similar quality all over the place also.
They don't call it the KeyStone state for nothing.
~Rob
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minjin
Dec 15, 2003, 8:15 PM
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in terms of raw quantity of problems, i'd have to say either california or colorado. colorado possesses the advantage of having loads of climbing essentially everywhere. however, i think it's hard to beat california for quality and the sheer number of classic areas.
however, utah seems to be on the up and up in terms of bouldering development. but any way you slice it, the best climbing is still west of the front range.
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riceplate
Dec 16, 2003, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: in terms of raw quantity of problems, i'd have to say either california or colorado. colorado possesses the advantage of having loads of climbing essentially everywhere. however, i think it's hard to beat california for quality and the sheer number of classic areas. however, utah seems to be on the up and up in terms of bouldering development. but any way you slice it, the best climbing is still west of the front range.
I live on the eastside of the sierra for a reason. I like to boulder and there is endless potential. But honestly, saying the best climbing is west of the front range isn't fair. Just talking bouldering, you have some amazing areas out east. Boone, HP40, Lincoln Woods, etc. They are world class. Smaller but just as good as hueco, bishop, LCC, Joes, or even fontainbleau.
When you factor in ALL climbing, then you've got even more competition. It's really hard to beat the red or the new as sport areas. Certainly nothing out west even compares for quantity (combined w/ quality). Sure, you've got charleston, the VRG, rifle, etc, but they are so tiny compared to the red.
There's good rock everywhere.
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ikellen
Dec 16, 2003, 9:11 PM
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California has a large multitude of boulders, but there is about a 4:1 or so ratio of climbers to boulders in CA.
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jeffstephan
Dec 16, 2003, 9:33 PM
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In reply to: I can't imagine anything better than california. High quality, Quantity, and variety. Camp 4 Happy's Buttermilks Sonora pass area and thats not counting the southern and northern stuff. Also, It's all differen't rock. :D
Absolutly. :!:
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victorjohn
Dec 16, 2003, 10:34 PM
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Yeah, Cali is pretty damn tough. Wish I knew more about other areas too (cant wait to make more road trips)
Within 3 hours of San Diego (where I live) there are:
Santee (cheesy but close and contains one of my favorite problems ever)
McCain (lotta FA material left here)
Culp
Woodsen
Tramway
Black Mountain
Joshua Tree (soooooo many problems)
Each of them has completely different rock. SoCal rock tends to be very rough and very technical climbing (footwork city).
It's awesome to see everyone so excited about their areas. I gotta get out to other states more. One day I hope I can return to the east coast and do all the climbing I never got to do (from Atlanta, discovered climbing once I moved to Cali).
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criscokid
Dec 16, 2003, 10:36 PM
Post #39 of 50
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Registered: Jun 23, 2003
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having lived in Colorado, California, and utah i can honestly say that cali. is #1 with colorado #2 and utah #3. although im sure that arizona and N.M. are up there also. has anyone actually explored for bouldering in alaska?
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smellyhippie
Dec 16, 2003, 10:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 155
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California has the best bouldering, so much so that bouldering in Tahoe is mostly a locals only deal.
That having been said, I'd rather boulder in Utah more than anywhere else. There's something about Ibex and Big Bend that I love so much.
Nate
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roadguy
Dec 17, 2003, 2:41 AM
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Posts: 52
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[quote="rockfaxRainbow has to be the best bouldering in San Diego...World Class...except the climbers who own it won't let most climb there. How sad!
Mick
Well...if you owned Rainbow Mick, would you let anyone who wanted to climb there, do it" It's a nice socialist thought, but the practical as well as philisopical issues are easily understood. What do you think your insurance liability would be? The climbers who own it are not rich and all it would take is one lawsuit and they could lose the place. I find nothing wrong with climbers who own such a wonderful place trying and keep the hordes of matress people at bay. But then I am biased. I helped Kevin, Mike and Dave et al. cut the trails thru that double overhead brush, discover the boulders and worked the problems. Whats wrong with having your own private idaho eh Mick?
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bigdan
Dec 17, 2003, 3:42 AM
Post #42 of 50
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Posts: 142
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In reply to: Well...if you owned Rainbow Mick, would you let anyone who wanted to climb there, do it" It's a nice socialist thought...
I don't think you understand socialism very well.
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sidepull
Dec 17, 2003, 4:39 AM
Post #43 of 50
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
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shouldn't john gill just answer this and we'll accept his word?
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minjin
Dec 19, 2003, 10:17 PM
Post #44 of 50
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i actually went to school out east for four years, and although i must admit there are some quality problems out there, it seemed like you could lump all the good problems (or even all the problems. period.) i saw in new england into one area the size of bishop. i haven't gotten down south, but i'm sure there's quality rock down there too. but so far, the rockies and west still can't be beat.
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ryanhurl
Dec 19, 2003, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 41
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I'd say UT or CA. Utah is cool because there's different rock types, but the downside is some of the areas are spread out and pretty hot during the summer (see Joe's Valley first week of June 03). Cal has a lot of good areas, different rock structures, and more of a "scene" (for lack of a better word). Utah is where you'd wanna go if you wanna be with just your friends. Cal you'll be meeting lots of new folks.
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flyinghatchet
Dec 20, 2003, 4:05 AM
Post #46 of 50
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 742
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minnesota. once you go basalt, you never go back.
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curt
Dec 20, 2003, 4:09 AM
Post #47 of 50
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In reply to: minnesota. once you go basalt, you never go back.
Curt
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zachallen
Dec 20, 2003, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 29
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WTF! kansas is not a f*cking mecca state. Every1 is forgeting about texas which has HUECO TANKS which is a mecca and just about all the foreigners cept the french declared it as the worlds best bouldering and there are numerous bouldering cliffbans throughout texas although the only good stuff in texas is HUECO TANKS!
Kansas can kiss my ASS!
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bradmc
Dec 22, 2003, 4:32 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 78
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the deep south is mostly choss covered in poison ivy with copperheads slinking underneath. Chiggers, ticks, scorpions and humidity and hot temps from hell. Oh yeah, did i mention the cambodia like vegetation you have to hack through?
If you can make it past Bubba and his moonshine still you may be able to eak out a problem or two.
I vote for CA and CO any day.
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copperhead
Dec 22, 2003, 6:29 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
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Definitely not sober.
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