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psirro
Dec 10, 2003, 9:28 PM
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how can improove contact srength with a fingerboard and an indoor wall?
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muncher
Dec 10, 2003, 9:45 PM
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Check some of the manufacturers websites, metolius for example and also check http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/articles/index.html for the best training advice you will find on the net.
Basically you just need to dead hang and do pullups on small holds. Obviously bouldering will also help.
Hope this helps a little.
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adamtd
Dec 10, 2003, 10:18 PM
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By doing a little research. There are so many books out there about this topic. These books would give you a more complete picture as well as discussing specific exercises and the possible risks. You don't have to go to a climbingshop to find one either. Any barnes and Noble or Borders will have a selection.
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kinz
Dec 10, 2003, 10:46 PM
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here is on drill that i like:
on the big metolius board (dont know about others but im sure they are all comparable) do 15 sets of 30 sec dead hangs, followed with a minute rest on the good slopers. it is ok if you fall before 30 seconds but dont start your rest until it is up. regardless of your times, make sure you do all 15 sets. this drill has helped amazingly with my contact strength and can benefit you at any level.
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grandwall
Dec 11, 2003, 12:45 AM
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contact strength is the strength which is required to latch a hold at speed. how does recommending deadhanging exercises on a fingerboard improve contact strength?????????? it will improve isometric strength, but will not be an efficient method of improving contact strength. sorta like doing 10 mile jogs to improve your 100m dash time.
to improve 'latching a hold at speed', you have to train by latching holds at speed. depending on the strength that your fingers already have, training in such a way can be of great benefit or cause some serious injuries. i'll assume that you're a strong climber:
-put some rungs up on an indoor wall and do some campusing
-bouldering, where you are required to deadpoint at your limit, will help
-fingerboard: campusing (jumping from one hold to the next, either one hand at a time or both hands at once)
if you're new to the game, i'd recommend a lot of bouldering first, then campussing and fingerboard campusing as you can get injured a lot faster via those two methods.
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muncher
Dec 11, 2003, 1:04 AM
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Thanks Grandwall, I managed to f#$k that one up pretty good. As you pointed out campusing is one of the best methods to train contact strength as well as dynamic bouldering. Just make sure you are well warmed up before doing anything too strenuous. When you are warmed up, it would probably be more beneficial to keep it low volume and high intensity as well. Give yourself some good rests in between what ever sets you end up doing.
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dlintz
Dec 11, 2003, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: contact strength is the strength which is required to latch a hold at speed. |
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curt
Dec 11, 2003, 2:23 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: contact strength is the strength which is required to latch a hold at speed. Where'd you get this definition from? I've always considered contact strength to be the strength needed to make open handed moves (ie. slopers) as opposed to crimping or pinching moves. Thus, deadhangs from the sloping holds on a hangboard would be very beneficial. Someone correct if I wrong but that's what I've always understood.
From my understanding of "contact strength" you are both incorrect here because you are trying to be too specific. Contact strength is simply the ability to hang onto the holds on the rock you are climbing--nothing more. Contact strength comes from having really strong fingers--which also means strong forearms.
Contact strength normally comes into play as the holds get smaller. If you fail to succeed on routes/problems with small holds, but can do other climbs of a similar rating--that have larger holds, you are probably limited by finger (contact) strength.
Curt
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legless
Dec 11, 2003, 6:26 PM
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maybe curts right,
but if so then me and every climber ive ever known has been misusing the term...
example: guys uses tiny crimp, locks off and makes long move...
who the hell will say: Wow! what awesome contact strength! ?
no one i know.
contact strength definitely refers to the ability to stick openhanded moves. thats the only context in which ive ever heard the term used...
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overlord
Dec 11, 2003, 6:33 PM
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slopers slopers slopers.
and campusboard.
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hyhuu
Dec 11, 2003, 6:55 PM
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I believe this description is consistent with all of the training books (Neil Gresham, Eric Horst, Udo Neumann) out there. Contact strength is equivalent to power: the rate the muscle can summon the strength, which is very relevant in deadpoint/dynamic moves.
In reply to: contact strength is the strength which is required to latch a hold at speed. how does recommending deadhanging exercises on a fingerboard improve contact strength?????????? it will improve isometric strength, but will not be an efficient method of improving contact strength. sorta like doing 10 mile jogs to improve your 100m dash time. to improve 'latching a hold at speed', you have to train by latching holds at speed. depending on the strength that your fingers already have, training in such a way can be of great benefit or cause some serious injuries. i'll assume that you're a strong climber: -put some rungs up on an indoor wall and do some campusing -bouldering, where you are required to deadpoint at your limit, will help -fingerboard: campusing (jumping from one hold to the next, either one hand at a time or both hands at once) if you're new to the game, i'd recommend a lot of bouldering first, then campussing and fingerboard campusing as you can get injured a lot faster via those two methods. |
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hex
Dec 13, 2003, 8:03 PM
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Do pull ups from a door frame. Hold on to both sides and push in slightly to avoid pulling the thing off :)
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thegogirl
Dec 19, 2003, 10:45 PM
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[quote="muncher"]Check some of the manufacturers websites, metolius for example and also check http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/articles/index.html for the best training advice you will find on the net.
I have gone to the above website and definitely agree-their training regimen for many different skills, is great....and comprehensible for the "average Joe " (or jane)
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bigwalling
Dec 20, 2003, 2:35 AM
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I like to run and jump onto the most sloping holds on the big metolius board. You got to hang on for a few seconds otherwise you're wasting your time.
A system board works well for everything!
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daryl314
Dec 20, 2003, 3:53 AM
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I think a key point people have missed here is BE CAREFUL. It's very easy to injure yourself training contact strength if you get in over your head and you don't have the base strength to do it.
In terms of good workouts on a fingerboard, the best one I've seen was posted a year or two ago on 8a.nu. It has 6 sequences that last as long as 30 minutes. I'd post a link if I knew where to find it. Anyone? I did save the web site to my computer as a .mht file. I'd be happy to PM it to you, or post the text (or at least the key information) on this board, but I'm not sure what the legal ramifications are. Does anyone know? It's a great workout, but I'm not sure if or how I could share it with people . . .
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curt
Dec 20, 2003, 4:00 AM
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In reply to: maybe curts right, but if so then me and every climber ive ever known has been misusing the term... example: guys uses tiny crimp, locks off and makes long move... who the hell will say: Wow! what awesome contact strength! ? no one i know. contact strength definitely refers to the ability to stick openhanded moves. thats the only context in which ive ever heard the term used...
I'll take another stab at this. Again, you are being too specific. Contact strength can apply to slopers or crimps. "Contact" simply means where your fingers meet the rock. If you fail to send problems because of a failure in this area, you need to work on contact strength. If you really mean this to apply to slopers only, you are only referring to open-hand contact strength and not contact strength in general.
Curt
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revdeuno
Dec 20, 2003, 7:16 AM
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curt is right. contact....strength..... say it with me now, it's not that complicated......
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dlintz
Dec 21, 2003, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: "Contact" simply means where your fingers meet the rock. |
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curt
Dec 21, 2003, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: "Contact" simply means where your fingers meet the rock. Maybe I'm taking this out of context but does that mean the terms "contact strength" and "finger strength" are interchangable since the manner in which fingers meet rock is irrelevant? I'm still not convinced "contact strength" is applicable to crimping.
I was bouldering with taorock yesterday, who has been climbing since the 1960s. He agrees with my definition of contact strength--which is largely interchangable with finger strength. However, he offered this insight--which is probably true.
Definitions of terms can often change over time. Perhaps if you are younger, or learned to climb in a gym, or from reading Horst's book or somewhere else, you were taught that contact strength means something slightly different than the original climbing usage of the word meant.
Curt
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alpnclmbr1
Dec 21, 2003, 6:13 PM
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Coming from a viewpoint of training in the early 90's:
Contact strength as we used it definitely referred to open hand grip strength.
The way we trained it was to use a free spinning PVC pipe of various diameters, placed over a pull up bar. If you could do pull-ups and lock offs with a 4" diameter pipe, you were doing pretty good.
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overlord
Dec 21, 2003, 7:52 PM
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^^^^ that sounds cool
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styndall
Dec 21, 2003, 9:44 PM
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In reply to: Definitions of terms can often change over time. Perhaps if you are younger, or learned to climb in a gym, or from reading Horst's book or somewhere else, you were taught that contact strength means something slightly different than the original climbing usage of the word meant. Curt
I didn't start this climbing thing until 2k2, and I quite thought that contact strength referred to ability to hold onto the rock, none of this open-hand, at-speed business.
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