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collegekid
Dec 23, 2003, 3:48 AM
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Most gyms have bouldering areas...yet i've never been to a gym that incorporates realistic mantles into problems. When bouldering outdoors, the crux is often at the top...there's very rarely a large jug to top out on. Why don't gyms have realistic topouts to boulder problems?
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michaelmay513
Dec 23, 2003, 4:13 AM
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Very good question, I'm curious to know the awnser to that as well.
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thun
Dec 23, 2003, 4:14 AM
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good idea...wish they did. sure would be nice to practice some freaky topouts in a softer enviro.
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climbthedj
Dec 23, 2003, 4:23 AM
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My gym has a section of it's wall that allows them to put in a couple of problems that top out. Sometimes even a hairy mantle. But yeah, I am surprised that more gyms don't do it. I guess it just makes for more risk of injuries.. and the whole liability issue...
All the more reason to go climb outside!
Cheers,
C
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jeffvoigt
Dec 23, 2003, 4:23 AM
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The Spot climbing gym in Colorado has the best freestanding boulders. Check out their site http://www.thespotgym.com/
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addicted_to_altitude
Dec 23, 2003, 5:37 AM
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Upper Limits in Bloomington, IL has an Outdoor Bouldering area you can top out on with a very convenient ramp to walk down after that tough climb. :D
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catbiter
Dec 23, 2003, 5:42 AM
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The climbing wall in Pittsburgh just got finished with a huge new bouldering area. They have a few top out problems.
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kinz
Dec 23, 2003, 6:02 AM
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exposure in dallas has a bouldering wall that can be topped out. one section can be pretty hairy depending on how generous they are with holds and there is actually an all natural V4 mantle that is pretty sweet.
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t-dog
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Dec 23, 2003, 6:34 AM
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if you noticed (which I know you have, haven been on Painted Carnival :), topping out a boulder problem is not often the hardest part but more often the more dangerous part. Most gyms simply don't want to deal with the liability of people peeling of mantles backwards and landing on their backs.
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wandt
Dec 23, 2003, 11:06 AM
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Yeah,
Working at a gym that has a top-outable bouldering wall, it's pretty unnerving turning around and seeing some overweight, understrong gumby teetering up around 12 or 13', without a harness, trying to find the next feesible hold for his runners to support him on.
That bouldering wall is about 9' high, 25 degrees overhanging, 12' long. Half has a flat mantle topout. The other half has a round sort of half-barrel thingy about 2-3' in radius that you have to climb over.
No injuries yet, though.
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overlord
Dec 23, 2003, 11:54 AM
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one gym in slo (not sure wich, maybe in trbovlje) has some freestanding boulders.
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kahuna3602
Dec 23, 2003, 12:19 PM
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Our gym (X-treme Rock) has one area like that. It's fairly hairy getting over the lip and slips are greeted with your fair donation of skin. That's probably why some other gyms choose not to have them.
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leaverbiner
Dec 23, 2003, 1:20 PM
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NJ Rock Gym also has a pretty enormous "freestanding" boulder with top outs on all sides. I think another problem with boulders that top out is the design and support structure. Often bouldering walls are attached to the framing of the primary wall and maybe to a girder of some sort. Without this support structure the bouldering wall just isn't strong enough. It is difficult to find the right set up that allows for the construction of a nearly freestanding boulder. I guess a gym could pour an enormous concrete block and then biuld out from that, but it would likely be incredibly expensive.
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lunatixx
Dec 23, 2003, 2:30 PM
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my gym has a huge boulder, it is a fake structure, but you can go all the way around it, on top of it like a real rock :) there is a ladder on the side or you can jump on the matresses.. hmmm i am going there this afternoon , ill take a pic . the structure was made for competition.
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cracklover
Dec 23, 2003, 2:38 PM
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My gym has some large holds (they must cost a fortune) that they put on regular walls. These holds are like three feet wide, one foot deep, and slopey on top. When you have to mantle up on one of those holds, believe me, it feels as much like the real deal as a gym can.
GO
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climbhigh2005
Dec 23, 2003, 2:54 PM
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I'm in the same boat... I've never been to a gym where they had top outs... and thats my biggest problem boudlering... good question!
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bonesbrigade
Dec 23, 2003, 3:08 PM
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New Jersey Rock Gym has agruably the best top-out/mantle finish bouldering problems. It has a giant independent island in the middle of the gym and many of the routes top-out.
Two Thumbs Up!
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joel_gibbel
Dec 23, 2003, 3:28 PM
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Cliffhangers gym in Reading, PA has a nice boulder to top out on. It's made of realistic nicros textured "rock". Here is a photo:
http://www.cliffhangers.com/boulder.html
Good stuff, and tons of problems on it.
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joshj
Dec 23, 2003, 3:31 PM
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Climb Time here in Lexington had one before they closed in March. It was an arched boulder that stood probably 12 feet tall. The topout was pretty sweet.
josh
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gnubbs
Dec 23, 2003, 3:53 PM
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Someone already mentioned the Spot in Boulder, CO, but I just wanted to give it another nod. You can top out on all of it's boulders, some of which can be downright scary. I think that the highest point to topout at is about 15' but it certainly seems higher. Some of the topouts are great with plenty of footholds and jugs. Other sections have nasty little overhangs just below where they top out that you have to heel hook to get up. Still other areas are very rounded off with only natural holds built into the walls.
They have four areas -- one styled after Fountainbleu, one after Hueco Tanks, one after good old Colorado Granite, and their one full wall for roped climbing is styled after Yosemite. They have everything from less than vertical, slabby friction climbing to steeply overhanging to nice bomber handcracks. Each different wall has top outs that feel totally different -- from totally secure easy topouts to gnarly scary ones.
gnubbs
-- Edited for spelling
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weip
Dec 29, 2003, 12:04 AM
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The gym I work for in Montreal has a huge central boulder which is almost 40 ft long and 15 ft high (w/2 ft mats,) and the topouts are scary. It seems to be a really good character-builder. But it really is an amazing sight. :shock: :o :) :D :angel:
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coclimber26
Dec 29, 2003, 12:21 AM
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You can't beat mantling on those huge pusher slopers at 10-15ft. up..
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collegekid
Dec 29, 2003, 1:25 AM
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"the spot" looks pretty awesome...i wish there were climbing gyms like that in san diego.
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