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diesel___smoke
Jan 4, 2004, 9:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2003
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Anyone done this route? It seems kind of obscure... is there a reason? Supertopos has it defined as hard, but safe. Any information would be GREAT.
Thanks,
Jp
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timpanogos
Jan 4, 2004, 4:30 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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I can tell you the descent is a bitch.
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diesel___smoke
Jan 4, 2004, 6:22 PM
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Yes, the descent would be very punishing for anyone who tends to take a lot of stuff, or anyone climbing with someone who does (hahaha), I've done it in the dark (with my partner's dying headlamp, he used mine to find the trail)... It was quite awakening when we would accidentally knock a rock loose from the trail, not hear it for a while, then listen to it exploding on the rocks below. Fortunately, we didn't have any gear other than a rack and a rope so it wasn't that bad at night.
Jp
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bigwalling
Jan 4, 2004, 6:35 PM
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If you haven't already check out the supertopo beta page. http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybwarean
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alpinestylist
Jan 4, 2004, 8:14 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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Climbed this a few seasons back. Thought it was really good. Lots o fixed heads, some hooks, good fun. Hard but not really dangerous.
Didn't bivi, so decent was no prob. More beta if you want it.
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timpanogos
Jan 5, 2004, 1:51 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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I bet I had a 90 pounder on!
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diesel___smoke
Jan 5, 2004, 3:10 AM
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Alpinestylist anything you recall about the route would be great. How long did it take you by the way? How was the hauling, or how would it be if you didn't haul? Is route finding bad? Belays? What rack would you recommend? Sorry for asking so many questions...
Thanks,
Jp
Chad, that couldn't be fun.
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alpinestylist
Jan 7, 2004, 4:36 AM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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Routefinding no prob.
rack as per supertopo,think it ahs gone clean now
belays bolted
first 2 pitches might suck to haul
<17hours
cheers and send it!
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diesel___smoke
Jan 7, 2004, 5:24 AM
Post #9 of 13
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Thanks, I'll try it. It's a Kohl/Shipley route, so the rating is given (alot) more consideration.
Jp
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copperhead
Jan 10, 2004, 6:31 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Re-animator is a good route. The info in the Supertopo book is accurate, though the rack lists are usually a bit thin. Pitch 5 is fun. The Hanging Curtain is probably the coolest location on the Column. You can wedge yourself between the curtain and the arête before you turn the mini-roof. I don’t know what clean is, but that move was the same move as the beginning of the “Carrot” on Tribal Rite – 1/2" baby angle straight up under the roof (wail the piss out of it) and then place a #5 Arrow in the splitter above. Remember your expando techniques… On the curtain, the 1/2" angle popped as I was placing the Arrow (it held the insta-test); on the Carrot, the angle held, or rather stayed in the crack until I placed a second #5 Arrow… and then the angle fell out… Gotta love it when your gear falls out behind you…
Rivets were added to pitches 7 and 8 on the second ascent though one of the rivets on pitch 7 is now justified. I was on a hook on a small flake, just above one of the ‘chicken’ rivets and was shifting my weight onto a big hook that looked ok. As I was moving left, the small flake broke, disappeared into space, and the hook suddenly dangled from my daisy below me. The big hook was apparently good.
Belay 9 is way cool – just left of the arête. While I was chillin’ there, waiting to lead another pitch, I noticed a strange sound that I have never heard before (and haven’t since). The wind was howling from the west and as it turned the sharp edge of the arête, it made a loud sound, almost like a huge piece of super-burly saran-wrap flailing in the wind, but not a flapping sound. I dunno how to describe it – don’t know aerodynamics…
The rivets and bolts on this route will need to be replaced in the near future.
Best route/location on the Column. Have fun.
Ps- For those that don’t know, Re-animator was first climbed by Eric Kohl and Walt Shipley in 1990. Walt died in a kayaking accident a few years ago. Walt was a brilliant climber; his many routes are a testament to his incredible talents and abilities. Those that knew him better could tell you great stories of his amazing accomplishments.
RIP Walt Shipley – we miss you! :cry:
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diesel___smoke
Jan 11, 2004, 5:33 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Thanks for all the descriptive information, Copperhead. I hate to bother you with another question but I didn't fully understand when you said:
In reply to: ...The info in the Supertopo book is accurate, though the rack lists are usually a bit thin...
In reply to: Gotta love it when your gear falls out behind you...
Very unfortunate about your friend/acquaintance Walt Shipley. I've read alot about him from various sites, my condolences to his friends and family. Russ Walling has climbed with him, parhaps he would tell us more about him...
Thanks again Copperhead,
Jp
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funkness
Jan 11, 2004, 6:35 AM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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Did it 4/97. definatley worth doing. Steep,hauling is a breeze. We spent two nights on the wall. It's been awhile but I remember some exciting climbing!
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copperhead
Jan 12, 2004, 5:30 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: By this do you mean I should bring more gear than the topo recommends, or that if I follow the list, I'll find the gear I brought too thin for the placements?
Guess I should have used 'slim' instead of 'thin.' I dunno; it just seems like the rack lists are a little light, but that may be because I like a lot of gear - it's good to have what you need. I think #5 Arrows rule but they are rarely listed on the ST rack lists. The list for WDD seemed light and I'm glad we brought more than called for. Some of it may be personal preference. Bring what you think you will need but no more - it is aid climbing, after all.
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