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rockprodigy
Dec 31, 2003, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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I'm talking about the latest, lightweight boots for high end mixed climbing.
I read a review in one of the climbing mags, and it sounded like the best models in that review were:
-La Sportiva "Trango Ice"
-Boreal "Ice Master"
-Scarpa "Freney XT"
Those were the lightest models, and they all got 4.5 stars in the review.
So has anybody actually tried any of these new boots? If I make it to the Ouray Ice fest, I'll demo some there, but until then, any comments would be nice. Thanks.
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csoles
Dec 31, 2003, 10:11 PM
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For many climbers, these boots fall into the fashion-before-function category. Lots of seams, nuisance lacing, garbage footbeds, silly materials...but they look cool. Great if you collect climbing boots like rock shoes. Really more of "performance alpine" boots since they are lighter but less durable/warm than traditional models. One plus, it's easier to drive a stick shift ;-)
They all climb the same on ice with rigid crampons. None of these boots are rigid so flexy crampons will make you suffer; some combos more than others. I've pretty much retired my Trango Ice for the Asolo Summit, which is a better boot on rock and way easier to get on/off. The boot to test at Ouray is the Montrail since only protos were available last season and several changes were made for actual production delivered this fall (also IIRC it's the only women's boot except the heavier Kayland). Of course it all boils down to fit (BYO footbeds if you really want to compare boots).
BTW none of the high-end mixed climbers wear these boots. They're using much lighter models (Kayland Ice Comp, Salomon not sold, Sportiva Mega Ice, or homebrews) with bolt-on crampons (clip-on crampons are quite poor for serious heel hooking).
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tradklime
Dec 31, 2003, 10:59 PM
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I climb in the Trango Ice. I like them quite a bit. I have really narrow feet and the "nuisance" lacing helps me to really cinch down my heals, something I typically have trouble with in other boots. Super light, tons of ankle flex, and I even like the integrated gaiter. Although, I would agree that on/ off isn't the easiest. Not the best for mountaineering, but great for technical ice/ mixed.
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lambone
Jan 4, 2004, 6:54 PM
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Consider the Trango Extreme S. I love mine. Like the Trango Ice without the gimicy velcro strap and gaitor. Plus I think the leather is more durable than the synthetic materials in the Ice.
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bigwalling
Jan 4, 2004, 8:27 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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If you want a super light miixed boot, just go to an ice skating site and get the boots without the blades. Then just bolt some crampons on them. I'm not an ice climber but I'm postive this would work and be light.
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pk
Jan 4, 2004, 8:33 PM
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Bigwalling - Ice hockey boots have almost no insulation and do not repell water very well. You would be one unhappy customer to find yourself miles out and your feet literally start freezing from the water inside the boots.
P.K.
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slab-dyno
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Jan 4, 2004, 10:51 PM
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PK,
I think Bigwalling was talking about sick and insane 1 pitch mixed and overhanging ice routes, not backcountry multipitch ice.
Jimmy
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rockprodigy
Jan 5, 2004, 5:02 PM
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Thanks for the advice. So far, I've been climbing in Scarpa Invernos...a scant 10 lbs! and I've managed to get up M8. I figured it was time to get into the new millenium. Going down to 4 pounds would be a big improvement for me, even if they're not as good as what the pros use.
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hema
Jan 5, 2004, 5:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
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Don't ditch the Invernos/Vegas but just go and get some lightweight boots for short/roadside ice/mixed cragging. Save the Invernos for multiday trips.
As mentioned if purely for roadside use get something as light as possible in the lines of Sportiva Mega Ice, Trango Ice Comp or Scarpa and Kayland eqvivalents. Also you might want to consider bolt-on crampons if your pushing the grades.
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rockprodigy
Jan 5, 2004, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: They all climb the same on ice with rigid crampons. None of these boots are rigid so flexy crampons will make you suffer; some combos more than others.
Hmmm....I use BD Sabretooth's in the mountains...a "semi-rigid" crampon. Do you think that would be a bad combo?
Right now I usually use scarpa makalus (3/4 shank) w/ sabretooth's on alpine routes where I need crampons, but I don't expect extreme cold or sustained ice climbing. Would a pair of these new boots w/ sabretooths be a good replacement, or too flimsy? The makalus are pretty flimsy, but they're much easier to hike in and much lighter than full-on plastic boots.
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rocknmedic
Jan 5, 2004, 11:15 PM
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I picked up a pair of the new FRENEY XT's and BD Sabertooth crampons. They work great for me. The boots work well for ice, and kept me warm and dry for 4 days in backcountry snow doing an avalanche search.
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