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mistymountainhop


Jan 22, 2004, 4:05 AM
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Best trad shoe?
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Im on the verge of buying a new pair of shoes, i have a budget of 150, but i cant really decide what to get, does anyone know how anasazis work on trad? or what the best trad shoe is?


deafclimber


Jan 22, 2004, 4:15 AM
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boreal ace is perfect for trad climbing. so comforty whenever i am standing on rocks.


the_alpine


Jan 22, 2004, 4:29 AM
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Five Ten Newtons!


phugganut


Jan 22, 2004, 5:13 AM
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In reply to:
boreal ace is perfect for trad climbing. so comforty whenever i am standing on rocks.

That's true. I have a pair for long multi-pitch routes and they are way comfy yet stick well. I just got a pair of Madrock Flashes and while I can't comment on their long-term performance, they are great so far.


brianthew


Jan 22, 2004, 5:59 AM
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Everybody is going to have a different answer. Essentially, it comes down to comfort on the long haul. For me, my 5.10 Ascents can almost be worn like a sneaker, I use them for trad and the little aid I do and have done. Throw a sock on my foot and they're ever better (they stretched).

Also, for trad, you're likely going to be doing lots of crack (Ha! Great over-used pun). Shoes like the Miuras tend to be great for thin cracks (but hurt), Moccasyms have good all-round crack performance though they lack the thick platform like sole that you will often like for longish climbs (thin sole).

So, many shoes will work very well in both sport and trad settings, though many of the sporty shoes might not lend to much comfort or good crack climbing. Stay away from high-end specialized shoes like the V10/Dragon and such; they are not going to help you much in cracks.

You'll also hear good things about Mythos, though I've not tried them.

But as always....
WHATEVER FITS. :D


aklaunch


Jan 22, 2004, 6:02 AM
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i have never tried any long route specific shoes. i just use what ever high perfomance shoe i like and get them a size or half size bigger.

i like the anasazis. i have a pair of big ones, and i can wear them all day long.


cadaverchris


Jan 22, 2004, 6:02 AM
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i'm definitely a fan of the Five Ten Newton
-stiff enough for long days in crack
-sensitive up front for face climbing
-not the best for over hung toe pulling though


mrme


Jan 22, 2004, 6:03 AM
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miures by lasportivia...i like them the best for all types of climbing.


brianthew


Jan 22, 2004, 6:05 AM
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In reply to:
miures by lasportivia

Word.

Pair three for me. :D


njari


Jan 22, 2004, 6:16 AM
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In reply to:
You'll also hear good things about Mythos...
Check out the Mythos gear reviews. I love 'em for thin cracks (low toe profile). For multi-pitch, I wanted performance mostly for crack, without totally sacrificing too much edging and smearing. The Mythos really deliver if you plan on climbing cracks but will occasionally need to do a few pitches of face. IMHO, they should be able to take you within a half-grade of your maximum redpoint (unless you climb hard 12s). Most people find them comfortable enough to wear all day.

Also, I would advise against getting over-sized Anasazis. Mine seem to be designed to fit me in a totally aggressive configuration. If you fit them so your toes lie flat (to toe jam), I think you'll be losing the best features of the shoe (micro-edging). I tore the uppers of mine while jamming--they just aren't crack shoes. You'd be better off just getting a shoe that was designed for the type of climbing you'll be doing.


dirtineye


Jan 22, 2004, 6:27 AM
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NOT another shoe thread!!!!

IT's MEGAS from sportiva if the aces don't fit you well-- those aces are for pointy toed folk!

You want your feet to feel good on long routes with lots of sharp stuff to stand on, get board lasted shoes that fit right and break em in. OTherwise, you'll be wantong to take your shoes off at every belay, and suffering on lead before long.

Megas are a great crack shoes and THE edging shoe, I mean, that is if unless you DON'T like being able to stand on a tiny edge as long as you want and being able to move when you want and not because your feet are killing you.

Once you break em in they'll smear OK too. I came within a rat hair of namingf a clinb, " I wish I had my board lasted shoes!". but that was too long hahahaha.


ANd don't forget, alcohol is good too.


crackjammer


Jan 22, 2004, 4:44 PM
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In reply to:
i like the anasazis. i have a pair of big ones, and i can wear them all day long.

I have the Anasazis as well. For sport routes, especially slab to vertical with tiny little edges, they are an excellent shoe with the supreme edging performance.

For pure crack climbing, I do not like them at all. You can tell they aren't designed for it. Even my Spires work better at foot jambs. My advice is to not get Anasazis for Trad Climbing, but use them strictly for sport.

As far as the best pure trad shoe, I haven't found it yet. I'm still looking for that comfortable pair with a thin profile for pure finger cracks.


jerrygarcia


Jan 22, 2004, 5:53 PM
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aces


scubasnyder


Jan 22, 2004, 6:05 PM
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I use my anasazis for trad climbing, but i dont do more than a few pitches yet.


petsfed


Jan 22, 2004, 6:18 PM
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Depends on what kind of trad we're talking about. Gunks trad? Get a good face shoe. Indian Creek trad? Get something stiff so you don't have to flex as many muscles to score a foot jam. Vedauwoo trad? Soft as you can find so your heel and toe jams will stick. I love my katanas for Indian Creek, but my moccasyms are getting the most use here at home. Will probably buy a second pair soon. Likewise with the katanas, then pick up some stiff laceups for thin face climbing.

The key is comfort. All of my shoes can be worn with a thin sock on so my feet don't get cold. I can (and have) worn all of my shoes for upwards of 8 hours at a time. By the end I wanted to peel those suckers off like none other, but the pain wasn't so bad as to be prohibitive. Uber-aggressive shoes are not practical unless you're going after Pink Flamingo or most anything on the Cat Wall at Indian Creek.


atpeaceinbozeman


Jan 22, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Mythos are way comfy, I watch my partner on the multipitch with his shoes off sometimes between pitches, and I forget that I have rock shoes on...


chico


Jan 28, 2004, 4:19 AM
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The Boreal ACE is the all time classic trad shoe, but for my money the Red Chili Sausalito gets the job done. I found Mad Rock Flashes to be too asymmetrical, and ended up giving the friggin' things away!
You have to decide if you want board lasted shoes, or slip lasted shoes. Board lasted shoes like the ACE or the Sausalito are preferable for crack climbs, and slip lasted shoes like the Mythos or the Stinger are better for face climbing. Whatever you decide, if they are comfortable, then they are too big!! (kidding) Have fun!


scubasnyder


Feb 5, 2004, 2:43 AM
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Anasazi mesa's are sweet i must say...had to post again found the name of my shoes finally


Partner camhead


Feb 5, 2004, 2:58 AM
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funny how most people (excepting petsfed and fshizzle) automatically assume trad to be "long moderate multipitch." hehe.

trad is placing gear, ground up. nada mas. duh. so like, you're essentially asking "what's the best shoe to wear for placing your own gear?"
nonsensical? moronic? yup.




oh, and moccs for cracks and smears, southwests for edging.


goldencrowbar


Feb 5, 2004, 3:00 AM
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Mythos, because they fit my feet perfectly.


sfclimber


Feb 7, 2004, 1:17 AM
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As is undoubtedly obvious, whichever shoe fits best is the best shoe. That being said, the characteristics that I look for are:
- all purpose
- board lasted
- lined
- symetric toe, or slightly asymetric toe

All purpose will result in a much more comfortable all day fit. There's nothing more annoying than being held up at a belay because your second has to put his shoes back on, get a pair that fits and leave them on!

I find that board lasted are much less painful in cracks and generally can make up for any lacking foot strength. I believe that board lasted shoes can also be resoled more often than slip lasted.

Lined shoes stretch less which translates to longer lasting fit.

Symetric toe is much more natural fit to most feet.

For me, this equated to Boreal Aces, which are now on their 4th resole and will be replaced by the same when their time comes. You can't get a much better testament than that.


jv


Feb 7, 2004, 2:01 AM
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In reply to:
trad is placing gear, ground up. nada mas. duh. so like, you're essentially asking "what's the best shoe to wear for placing your own gear?"
nonsensical? moronic? yup.

Trad is not limited to placing gear. Clipping bolts can be trad too. Duh. (Oh, sorry, wrong thread.)


JV


adeptus


Feb 8, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Anasazi Lace-Up for face climbing and technical slabs.
Miura for cracks and pretty much every thing else.


hema


Feb 8, 2004, 7:02 PM
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One that fits well, is comfortable to have on you're feet for longer periods, and suits your climbing style and location.

For me a good choice was 5.10 Newton as I climb mostly positive to vertical granit, which has a lot of small crystals and incuts (so the ridig sole is a bonus).


sandbag


Feb 8, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Boreal Ace, and they are starting to distribute them again !!! WOOOHOOO!

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