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4:1 pend lowerout
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timpanogos


Jan 26, 2004, 1:43 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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4:1 pend lowerout
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Well, got to practice in gym today - for what it's worth, lowering off a QD biner - 4:1 had plenty of friction (too much) - no need for atc.

it was about a 12' traversal on a roof, backcleaned to create a pend to clean.


Partner holdplease2


Jan 26, 2004, 4:11 AM
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Re: 4:1 pend lowerout [In reply to]
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Hey Chad:

I just wrap the line or cordalette or whatever around the spine of a 'biner a few times for extra friction...line clipped to biner on my tie-in loop or rope from my grigri, line through whatever I am lowering from, back to me, around the spine of the biner. Plenty 'o friction...supplemented by my leather gloves...takes less rope/time/trouble than running the line back and forth between me and the pendy point.

Are we talking about different things here? Or the same thing? I just made this up as I went, it works, but it might be wrong for some reason...

Hope you are well! (BTW...the climb you and I discussed went well. Exciting, but well. I may post a TR on it.)

-Kate.


smithclimber


Jan 26, 2004, 4:28 AM
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Re: 4:1 pend lowerout [In reply to]
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Yes, I think you are talking about two different things.

Tim, when you are doing the 4:1 it's customary to NOT use the ATC (or any other device) because (as you've figured out) there is already plenty of friction in play. It's more common to use a device when you rig a 2:1 style lowerout.


apollodorus


Jan 26, 2004, 5:27 AM
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Re: 4:1 pend lowerout [In reply to]
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When you do the 4:1 (or 2:1) lowerout on walls that get traffic, you'll possibly find that the lowerout tat (worn and rotten sling) is too dicey to trust. It might hold your weight, but as the rope saws through it, it could fail. So, you should keep some 1/2" or 9/16" tat/webbing with you to replace it. Also, if the leader has clipped the tat instead of the piece it's tied through, having extra tat to tie for the lowerout is nice.


timpanogos


Jan 26, 2004, 2:47 PM
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Re: 4:1 pend lowerout [In reply to]
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Yea, I suppose I'll try a 2:1 next time (better be a real short pitch if your doing a 4:1).

I suppose on a 2:1 you are just going to have to pull the whole length of the rope (however much is left, verses 12' of doubled over 4:1) through the nylon (or biner) when you pull it clear (or set it up for that matter if not tieing new nylon).

I suppose that the pull on a 2:1 is not as scary (less likely to rat up in the nylon)?

Chad

Kate, do post a TR, would love to read about it!


ricardol


Jan 26, 2004, 5:24 PM
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Re: 4:1 pend lowerout [In reply to]
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In reply to:
When you do the 4:1 (or 2:1) lowerout on walls that get traffic, you'll possibly find that the lowerout tat (worn and rotten sling) is too dicey to trust. It might hold your weight, but as the rope saws through it, it could fail. So, you should keep some 1/2" or 9/16" tat/webbing with you to replace it. Also, if the leader has clipped the tat instead of the piece it's tied through, having extra tat to tie for the lowerout is nice.

you could also be a good citizen and put a rap ring (the cheapo ones) on the new sling you install up there .. then everyone else who lowers out wont be worried about sawing through the nylon ...

then again maybe the next guy will bootie it ..

i put a rap ring on both of the p1 penjis of new dawn .. they lasted into the fall ... though i think someone bootied one by december

-- ricardo


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