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crazygirl
Jan 27, 2004, 6:21 PM
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Do you have a training routine that you follow regularly? Do you do any strengh exercises, other than climbing? Have you seen results? Are there any books or articles that particularly benefited you?
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kimmyt
Jan 27, 2004, 6:31 PM
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I don't train particularly for climbing, but I have recently begun a routine in order to keep myself in better health. I run/walk on my treadmill 5 days a week or more (depending if I am going somewhere on the weekend or not). On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays I do yoga in the evening. On Tuesdays and Thursdays I climb or boulder at the gym. On the weekends I try and do at least one high-energy sport, so recently I've been skiing, hitting the gym extra hard, or taking hikes. I've noticed that I feel a ton better, but can't let you know how that's affectin gmy climbing, as I haven't been doing it too long. I guess I'll find out how successful it all is once this season rolls around.
K.
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rvega
Jan 27, 2004, 6:33 PM
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I climb 3-4 times a week at the gym (sometimes 2-3 hours), and I hit the real rocks about 2 times a month. I don't do anything else, except go for the occassional (not so occassional these days) run. I don't think my body could handle much else cause I'm almost always sore or in pain from the hard work out at the gym or all day session on the rocks. I'm getting to be extremely built on my upperbody, so if there was anything to focus on its my leg strength.
I've found that leading gives me the best cardio workout and just working on hard moves on TR builds endurance, muscle, and finger strength. I have found that climbing gives me the best overall workout of all exercise because I'm jazzed to go to the gym and don't see it as a duty but a fun. I use to lift weights a lot but never saw the results I get from climbing.
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rockbetty
Jan 27, 2004, 8:35 PM
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i don't train. all i do is climb (2-3/wk at the gym), and walk to work on a regular basis. actually, before i started climbing, i avoided exercise as much as possible...
like rvega, my upperbody is getting really quite built, but my legs could use some more work (tho i must say there's nothing like climbing for developing a hard ass...). i think better leg strength would definitely help for dyno moves in bouldering.
i'd also like to develop more handstrength so that i can tackle slopers a bit better.
there are those at my gym who follow very regimented programs. i'd like something a little less formal (this has to stay FUN!). any ideas for a bit of a training plan? something accessible that could build up? or as crazygirl asked, some articles or books to read?
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gblauer
Moderator
Jan 27, 2004, 9:10 PM
Post #5 of 29
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I train in the rock climbing gym. Typically hit the gym 3-4 times per week. Spend 2 hours bouldering (start by warming up by traversing the slabs, hanging off my hands etc. I then begin working all the easy stuff and ultimately end up on one of my projects. Once I send the project or (not) I am usually so wiped that I have to rope up. I do a few easy routes (5.8-5.9) on lead, then lead some tougher climbs. We then do some tougher top rope climbs (5.11 range) and complete our top rope work out with 15 minutes of laps each on easy "rainbow" routes. Finally we do pull ups on the hang board and we happily take off our shoes and head home. Whew.
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litleclimberchick
Jan 27, 2004, 10:10 PM
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i don't really train. i climb at the gym 4-5 times a week. besides that i just run and do basic exercises [ie: pushups, pullups, situps, crunches, and stretching]. it seems to work for me, i've gotten pretty strong pretty fast.
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macherry
Jan 27, 2004, 10:50 PM
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Once i started climbing, i really noticed i needed to tone up the body. 5 days a week i do ball/weight work. Lots of stretching, helps with the skiing. Most days i'm skiing or boarding so i don't have time for lots of cardio. I have my road bike hooked up to a wind trainer in my basement i try to ride regularly and i'm out with my dog twice a day for walks.
Summer i road ride about 4 times a week and mtn. bike the other days. I also have a training wall and i work on the holds.
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calamity_chk
Jan 27, 2004, 10:56 PM
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i was much better at training last year than i have been lately. here's the basic routine:
yoga, twice daily - morning and evening.
gym for 4-5 hrs, twice weekly.
protein shakes for breakie.
outdoor climbing weekly (sat & sun).
i cant really say how much it improved my climbing, but damn i felt good.
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rvega
Jan 28, 2004, 1:08 AM
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In reply to: I find it hard to train for climbing. The muscles you use are often hard to target in other training regimens. Since I moved to Maui I've been trying to keep in climbing shape without actually climbing (the rock here isn't really climbable), and I've found it difficult. I used to climb about 4 times a week. I started with some easy bouldering for about 20 minutes, then bouldered hard for about 2 hours, occasionally did top rope after that, ended with some light traversing and some quality time with the campus board. Good luck with the training.
You should pick up windsurfing since you live in Maui. Talk about a good upperbody workout. And suprisingly you use a lot of the same skills as in climbing: balence, arm strength, good judgement, body positioning. Plus its tons of fun and seriously addicting. Take a class and make sure they teach you to do a water start.
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missedyno
Jan 28, 2004, 1:44 AM
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i drink 4 litres of water a day - feel great.
i lift weights and since i injured my knee, i've been doing a lot of leg exercises to get the muscles back. my partner and i have an abdominal routine we do every night. a couple months of that and i'm already seeing some definition - it's great!
in the summer i'll be biking to work again... and i walk alot.
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jt512
Jan 28, 2004, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: my partner and i have an abdominal routine we do every night.
Please...this is a family site.
-Jay
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keazah
Jan 28, 2004, 4:26 AM
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It's not like I train to climb, but the excercises I commonly do help me in one way or another...
Mondays and Wednesdays-- I take Jazz class, as in dancing classes. And I find it very helpful when it comes to balance.
Tuesdays and Thursdays -- I take Capoeira... I guess that kinda helps me when I have to do some sort of freaky step!! Hehe... :wink:
I climb indoors at least twice a week and outdoors at least once a week...
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crazygirl
Jan 28, 2004, 5:16 AM
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I myself am too disorganized to follow a routine. I climb at the gym as much as i can, (now that its 20 degrees outside) and on my rest days i run, or do other season-related sports. i stopped weight lifting because of the lack of time
i read Eric Horst's training for climbing, but i did not find it helpful. Now i just try to vary the type of climbing i do, and throw in some campussing here and there.
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winter
Jan 28, 2004, 5:17 PM
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I recently started a training program specifically for climbing. It involves 4 weeks of endurance followed by 3 weeks of power? then 2 weeks of mixed then 1 week of rest. I can't remember whether power is the 3 week or 2 week stint.
I go the climbing gym 3-4 nights a week.
I climb laps on lead and toprope all night. I do excercises like roman chair and one armed climbing. No crimping is allowed, hands should always be open. I always do a few laps on a route, it's all about endurance. I only climb up to 75% of my max, no hard routes. After climbing I do a ciruit that involves weights, pull ups, crunched, push ups ect ect.
I also do 1.5 hour yoga class once a week, walk 40 min every day (to and from work) and try to run. The weather lately has made running tough. I also walk my dogs every night before climbing or whatever I have. I usually also snowboard one full day every weekend.
Since starting my climbing training routine I can do 3 pull ups in a row (before I could do 0) and I can climb 6 laps on easy routes, as opposed to like 2 when I started. It's been 3 weeks.
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crazygirl
Jan 28, 2004, 5:28 PM
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do you mean, you can do 6 routes in a row without rest?
i can do 3 tops, and only if they are not too hard. anyway my next training phase will be to climb more laps
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winter
Jan 28, 2004, 5:34 PM
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I climb up and down every route...no taking or touching the ground, so far my best is 4Xup and 3X down the same route without taking or touching the ground. It's fun.
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rvega
Jan 29, 2004, 9:16 PM
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In reply to: I recently started a training program specifically for climbing. It involves 4 weeks of endurance followed by 3 weeks of power? then 2 weeks of mixed then 1 week of rest. I can't remember whether power is the 3 week or 2 week stint. I go the climbing gym 3-4 nights a week. I climb laps on lead and toprope all night. I do excercises like roman chair and one armed climbing. No crimping is allowed, hands should always be open. I always do a few laps on a route, it's all about endurance. I only climb up to 75% of my max, no hard routes. After climbing I do a ciruit that involves weights, pull ups, crunched, push ups ect ect. I also do 1.5 hour yoga class once a week, walk 40 min every day (to and from work) and try to run. The weather lately has made running tough. I also walk my dogs every night before climbing or whatever I have. I usually also snowboard one full day every weekend. Since starting my climbing training routine I can do 3 pull ups in a row (before I could do 0) and I can climb 6 laps on easy routes, as opposed to like 2 when I started. It's been 3 weeks.
Holy crap! You're making me feel fat and lazy!
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winter
Jan 30, 2004, 4:38 PM
Post #19 of 29
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In reply to: In reply to: I recently started a training program specifically for climbing. It involves 4 weeks of endurance followed by 3 weeks of power? then 2 weeks of mixed then 1 week of rest. I can't remember whether power is the 3 week or 2 week stint. I go the climbing gym 3-4 nights a week. I climb laps on lead and toprope all night. I do excercises like roman chair and one armed climbing. No crimping is allowed, hands should always be open. I always do a few laps on a route, it's all about endurance. I only climb up to 75% of my max, no hard routes. After climbing I do a ciruit that involves weights, pull ups, crunched, push ups ect ect. I also do 1.5 hour yoga class once a week, walk 40 min every day (to and from work) and try to run. The weather lately has made running tough. I also walk my dogs every night before climbing or whatever I have. I usually also snowboard one full day every weekend. Since starting my climbing training routine I can do 3 pull ups in a row (before I could do 0) and I can climb 6 laps on easy routes, as opposed to like 2 when I started. It's been 3 weeks. Holy crap! You're making me feel fat and lazy!
HA HA! :lol:
I WAS fat and lazy for like a month over christmas, that's why I started doing this! I also eat totaly garbage, as much full fat milk as I can get, lot's of meat, ect...I have to do all that or I'd be huge! :D
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sarah
Feb 3, 2004, 12:49 AM
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i like to do 10 different boulder problems five times each, every four minutes for 20 minutes 10 pullups,and situps during breaks :) rock on
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climberterp
Feb 3, 2004, 1:14 AM
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I like to do laps on moderate routes to build endurance, downclimbing is definitely a different skill than climbing up! I've been trying to build strength for overhanging stuff by campusing on juggy holds and doing pullups. I did pyramids the other night, got up to 7 before I had to start down again :D
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iamthewallress
Feb 3, 2004, 1:47 AM
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I can't climb well if my muscles are still sore from previous workouts which they often are for more than a couple of days if I've done something extra strenuous, so I take days off whenever I still feel a climb in my muscles or joints.
That said, I typically climb in the gym on Tues/Thurs and outside on Sat/Sun.
At the gym I start with a 40 minute abs class and then warm up on the eliptical trainer for 10 min or jog a mile on the treadmill. I mostly climb whatever I feel like without a big focus on training. I always end up pumped as much as I can stand. At the end of my climbing session I do lat pull downs in reps of 10 starting 20 lbs below my body weight and knocking 10 lbs off for each successive set.
When I climb outside it's usually for joy and to arrive at high places more than performance, although I have been making an effort to go to the crags this winter and work on a few techniques that I needed to improve in order to visit more joyous high places.
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shortyduwop
Feb 3, 2004, 3:09 PM
Post #23 of 29
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i'm with u. i run and do push-ups, pull ups, stuff on the finger board and sit-ups, but the onlt way to become a better climber is to climb. i really think it's that simple. the other stuff helps with endurance and strength, but u can use it if u can't make it to the crux. right?
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spider_woman
Feb 3, 2004, 4:12 PM
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I definitely train. 3 days a week, I train for climbing, which includes endurance climbing (how long can I stay on a traverse before failure), power climbing (climbing on a 45 degree over hang in a V pattern), splits, (basically a funky form of split with weight to improve stemming), hand jams, (for crack climbing), weights that target the back and shoulders, and hiking up stairs with a pack filled with weight, wearing a dust mask to hamper breathing. The four remaining days break down into one rest day and three running days. The 3 days I train for climbing have helped me tons, I have had this same routine for about a year, and have noticed a slow but sure progress in my climbs and my workouts, not to mention I feel great, and am way more confident with my body.
8)
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krestkid
Feb 3, 2004, 5:47 PM
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I usually try to climb at least twice a week in the gym. But lately I've found myself not very motivated to climb and will just sit around the gym doing nothing. School takes up time as do naps, but I do find time to do some working out. I start with 20 min cardio, then weights (and some pull-ups on the assist machine till I can get one alone), and I end with another 20 minutes of cardio. I notice that since I've started climbing and doing pull-ups that I open the front door so I can just hang on the door frame. Soon I'll be able to do a pull-up but until then I can only keep working on it.
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