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atg200
Jan 30, 2004, 4:35 AM
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fantasia is cool. i backed off the lead when i couldn't get gear in that pod about 12 feet up.
low exposure at the gunks is cool. lots of punishment per foot, and you always get a crowd of hecklers.
honeymoon chimney on the priest is really something. if kor-ingalls was hard for you, don't even think about it.
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philbox
Moderator
Jan 30, 2004, 5:07 AM
Post #27 of 125
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Hmmm, hafta be a toss up between Nemesis or Cock Crack at Frog Buttress,South East Queensland Oz.
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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 5:12 AM
Post #28 of 125
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Crack of Fear: Although I have never finished the third pitch, has to be the best OW ever. Large gear, good rock, and excelent exposure. I tought someone would have mentioned it by now.
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 5:19 AM
Post #29 of 125
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The Creation of the World. A fine Ken Nichols route up the overhanging face of Moss cliff, in the Adirondaks.
This 4 pitch route is a continuos and sustained offwidth that runs up the entire left side of this impressive wall, just right of the arete. Each pitch weighs in @ 5.10+, but be prepared for a typical Nichols effort at sandbagging.
Exposed, commiting from the start, and relentless. A fine feather in the cap of any true afficiando.
Personally, when I see the letters: O.W. on a topo, I presume it to mean: other way
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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 5:35 AM
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Doctor please tell me more. I'll be in that part of the country this summer and may need to look that up.
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rmiller
Jan 30, 2004, 5:37 AM
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The one that pops immediately into my mind is Honeymoon Chimney in Castle Valley. Others that were fun though are:
King Cat at Indian Creek, the ear pitch of Primrose Dihedrals, Texas flake on the Nose, lower pitches of Epinephrine in redrocks. There are many more, but I cannot remember them all right now.
Ronnie
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sbclimber
Jan 30, 2004, 6:48 AM
Post #32 of 125
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In reply to: The Eliminator Difficulty: 5.10c Protection: TR from bolt or number one camalots and small cams Description: Great hand jams and layback moves. Short but great problem
Anyways, someone much wiser than I once told me what OW truly stands for...other way, as in there's gotta be another way up.
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t-dog
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Jan 30, 2004, 7:26 AM
Post #33 of 125
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Hobbit Hole Offwidth out behind HVCG
OK, so it's only 15 feet tall but it's still sweet as all hell!!!!!!!!!!
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shakylegs
Jan 30, 2004, 12:49 PM
Post #34 of 125
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edge, i did a double-take also when you wrote low exposure. greasy, scary, awful roof. still fun to try though.
atg, you get hecklers, but you also get encouragers. better than hudson's, imho.
okinawa, moss cliff is in the whiteface region of the adirondacks. your best best would be to go after july, because of the peregrine closures.
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goodman
Jan 30, 2004, 1:10 PM
Post #35 of 125
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Registered: Mar 16, 2003
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Miami - in Sedona, 3 pitches off the deck, feet above your head, flared and sandy; does it get any better? Another cool one is at Rumbling Bald in NC, called whipping Post, hand/fist stacks and levitation, way cool!
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piton
Jan 30, 2004, 2:24 PM
Post #36 of 125
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Posts: 1034
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disco death march
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ambler
Jan 30, 2004, 2:43 PM
Post #37 of 125
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In reply to: Fantasia at Vedauwoo was by far the coolest one I've ever had the pleasure of.
In reply to: Crack of Fear: Although I have never finished the third pitch, has to be the best OW ever.
And I'll nominate two more, easier than Fantasia or Fear but in different ways more exciting:
Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike.
Hollow Flake Crack on the Salathe Wall. Can anyone who's led it ever forget that pitch?
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murf
Jan 30, 2004, 3:41 PM
Post #38 of 125
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Posts: 1150
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What ever offwidth I'm belaying my partner on....
Surprised noone has said: crux pitch Keeler Needle - 5.10+ offwidth at altitude!
Murf
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crackjammer
Jan 30, 2004, 4:51 PM
Post #39 of 125
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 53
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1. The Pipeline at Squamish - Sick 10C Offwidth/Squeeze Chimney.
2. Various 5.10 Offwidths at Skaha - There are a lot of them.
3. Blue Autumn at Vantage.
4. Mithral Dihedral on Mount Russell, High Sierra.
5. East Face of Lexington Tower at Washington Pass.
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rrrADAM
Jan 30, 2004, 4:57 PM
Post #40 of 125
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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"Favorite Offwidth ???"
To me that is an oxymoron, as I hate all offwidths, and I have had to endure plenty... Always feel like I got in a fight after one.
I think I like Mike's tech tip for climbing offwidths...
(Praraphrasing)
"1. Do 3,000 situps
2. Ascend 1 foot
3. Rest
4. Repeat as necessarey to get to the top"
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asandh
Jan 30, 2004, 5:22 PM
Post #41 of 125
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
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:D
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flagstaff_climber
Jan 30, 2004, 5:58 PM
Post #42 of 125
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Posts: 310
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The one I can bypass by face climbing :)
Rick
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couloir
Jan 30, 2004, 6:07 PM
Post #43 of 125
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Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 304
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Diet Pepsi(Sam's Throne, AR)
Owl Roof(Yosemite)
Trial By Fire(Yosemite)
Cream(Yosemite)
Bad Ass Momma(Yosemite)
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crotch
Jan 30, 2004, 6:28 PM
Post #44 of 125
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In reply to: Right Long's Crack, Woodson - very very very nice ..... how many of you have had the pleasure of flipping your body upside down from a leavitation hand stack so you could jam a foot above your head, then inch by inch shuffling your foot up the crack, while holding yourself in this up side down mode with more hand stacks, till you can finally grab your leg and climb up yourself and continue on up to the top.
I've seen this crack shut down some big names. Is it really 5.11 withouth the cheat stone?
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:30 PM
Post #45 of 125
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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In reply to: disco death march
I've done this one. Great call...
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crackboy
Jan 30, 2004, 7:06 PM
Post #46 of 125
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
Posts: 323
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i liked Baby at the gunks, though most people lay it back
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bones
Jan 30, 2004, 7:11 PM
Post #47 of 125
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Registered: Feb 17, 2003
Posts: 253
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Also at Woodson: the Ogre, has a few moves of fun leavitation on steep rock.
Big Grunt, some horizontal chicken winging to squeeze chimney. good fun.
Sickle Crack, good for learning some OW skills.
I can't wait to try Mother Superior and Right Long's though.
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alpinestylist
Jan 30, 2004, 7:41 PM
Post #48 of 125
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
Posts: 193
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The big baby for sure!
rigth torpedo tube is good, a lot of stuff in Vedaveu (spell?)
Crack of Fear is more of a squeeze chiimney
The Leavitator on Scorched Earth...5.11 OW protected with tubes, 13 pitches up El Cap
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petsfed
Jan 30, 2004, 8:06 PM
Post #49 of 125
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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Vedauwoo. Fat Crack Country. Somebody needs to try New Maps of Hell and tell me trying it is a bad idea. Its unrepeated, put up in 1988. Or Trip Master Monkey, but its only briefly offwidth. Loads of stuff out at Blair and the Citadel. And the Roof Ranch. The wide half of Nat's Roof, probably V5 ish, but I'm not sure its been done yet. 30 feet long, 11 inches wide, roof chimney. Are we crying yet? But it really is the beautiful woman that has captured my imagination (its not the climb that the dude is on). Now if only I could get to the hard part...
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rhei
Jan 31, 2004, 12:48 AM
Post #50 of 125
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Registered: May 13, 2003
Posts: 71
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Ambler wrote
In reply to: Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike.
All depends on your size. Bigger folk find it an off-width (or layback), smaller bodies get inside and chimney. Either way, the runout is still serious.
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