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c_kryll
Jan 30, 2004, 5:55 PM
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A few days ago I watched a climber lose his left thumb (amputated) when he fell while trying to clip. He was doing a sport route and had made the first clip without difficulty. While trying to make the second clip he realized he was 'backcliping' and reversed his hand, allowing the rope to make a full twist around his thumb, it was at this point that his hand popped off the wall and he fell. When the rope came tight on his weight it cinched around his thumb literally ripping it off.
This climber did not have a lot of climbiing experience, although he was with a very experinced belayer. I believe it was his first sport lead attempt, and I feel that it was his lack of experience or practice in clipping techniques that contributed to this accident.
This accident only adds to the fact in a moment of carelessness bad things will happen. Climber Beware!
Chris
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lstockett
Jan 30, 2004, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: A few days ago I watched a climber lose his left thumb (amputated) when he fell while trying to clip. He was doing a sport route and had made the first clip without difficulty. While trying to make the second clip he realized he was 'backcliping' and reversed his hand, allowing the rope to make a full twist around his thumb, it was at this point that his hand popped off the wall and he fell. When the rope came tight on his weight it cinched around his thumb literally ripping it off. This climber did not have a lot of climbiing experience, although he was with a very experinced belayer. I believe it was his first sport lead attempt, and I feel that it was his lack of experience or practice in clipping techniques that contributed to this accident. This accident only adds to the fact in a moment of carelessness bad things will happen. Climber Beware! Chris
I'm sorry to hear about the accident. Thanks for posting. It's important that we learn all we can from things like this.
Were they able to reattach his thumb?
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crushingfinger
Jan 30, 2004, 6:10 PM
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ouch!! :cry:
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tucsonalex
Jan 30, 2004, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: It's important that we learn all we can from things like this.
Learn how to clip before you get on your first lead. Clipping should be a reflex, you should not have to think about whether or not you back clipped or z-clipped. When you do start leading, your first few climbs should be well below your limit so you can get used to the feeling of climbing above your protection and making clips without worrying about falling.
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bluto
Jan 30, 2004, 6:36 PM
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Do not let a "carfull" of people clip at the same time. The results can be devastating.
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mrme
Jan 30, 2004, 6:45 PM
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i have seen people rip shreds of skin off fingers by getting them caught in binners....these people normally think it is to stuppied to clip a binner standing in the middle of the gym and can't wait to practice , after all it is just clipping how hard could it be.
thanks for the post never thought about getting a finger tangeled in the rope.
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scubasnyder
Jan 30, 2004, 6:46 PM
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i agree with tucsonalex
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meataxe
Jan 30, 2004, 7:05 PM
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I guess this makes a good case for doing "fake" leads on TR. That would safely get you to the point where clipping is an instinct.
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unabonger
Jan 30, 2004, 7:11 PM
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In reply to: I guess this makes a good case for doing "fake" leads on TR. That would safely get you to the point where clipping is an instinct.
Not only that, but in the indoor sport lead class I taught, the first twenty minutes of each class were spent simply clipping, over and over, at the base of the wall with a short length of rope.
This seemingly simple movement is so important to do that a beginner shouldn't even tie into a lead rope until he's got it wired.
And remember there are four possible ways to clip--with the left and right hand, and with the gate facing you or away from you. All four ways need to be dialed in.
The FastestClipinTheEastBonger
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leaverbiner
Jan 30, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: Were they able to reattach his thumb?
I hope so. My uncle had a similar rope accident but his involved roping horses/calves . . . wrapped the lasso around the saddle with thumb underneath, his horse jerked to a stop, the cattle kept running, the rope cinched tight and thar she blew!
They were able to reattach the Thumb and he has pretty decent mobility still.
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dynoguy
Jan 30, 2004, 9:49 PM
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I heard about a guy who got a finger caught in a loop a rope and weighting it. It completely flattened his knuckle :shock: . EEEWWW
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umhowaboutpatt
Jan 30, 2004, 9:57 PM
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Thanks for posting this. I had no idea that could happen. And in the future I will watch out for it. Im sorry to hear about your friend. That's a terrible thing to happen to someone on there first lead.
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c_kryll
Jan 30, 2004, 11:38 PM
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The last I heard was that he will have his thumb reattached, however they need to let some tissue grow first. When they do reattach it he won't have full motion as the first joint (behind thumbnail) will be pinned and unable to flex.
Chris
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oudinardin
Jan 31, 2004, 12:44 AM
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Really sorry to here that! Good luck to your friend.
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superfox
Jan 31, 2004, 1:37 AM
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In "The Professionals", Yuji Hirayama falls off a sport route, and pulls up on the rope to get up to his last clip, but when he let the rope go for his belayer to take the slack, the rope wrapped around his thumb and tore something, I can't remember what. He had to stop climbing for a little while, but has not hurt him long-term.
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theshoopy
Aug 19, 2005, 11:13 AM
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that is intense. I know a certain amount of excitement will excite everyone, but why why risk being able to climb the next day or even not being able to climb at all without alot of pain. I was looking around at my friends and everyone has ether worked through a serious injury or had a really bad fall that they had to work through in there head.
:shock: but with this in mind why not take the time to make sure everything is right!!!!!!
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majid_sabet
Aug 19, 2005, 5:47 PM
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It is not just climbing but also managing the gears you carry, I was wondering how far he fell ? and send this report to AAC, they may publish it next year :arrow:
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krisp
Aug 19, 2005, 6:16 PM
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Damn, That'll keep you off the sharp end for a while! :(
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coldclimb
Aug 19, 2005, 6:19 PM
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Geeze, that's really a bummer. Hope he finds a way around the injury to keep on climbing!
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