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mtnjohn
Feb 17, 2004, 11:13 PM
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When one of the routes I FA'd gets retroed I get curious (among other things)
how safe is too safe.
Protect every move?
Protect every 6 ft.? Every 12 ft.?
Maybe as the FA I should bolt on the same TR system gyms use and leave a rope contected (over all four pitches!)
Maybe a 20 ft. deep air bag at the base
I'll glue crash pads along the route, in case you fall the rock won't scratch your knees.
Oh, i should leave my insurance companies info at the base, just in case too.
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vincent
Feb 17, 2004, 11:33 PM
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what area and what route are u talking about? just curious. if it really bothered you you'd go paul bunyan on em and start chopping. i feel a little spray coming off your post. i might be wrong.....
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overlord
Feb 17, 2004, 11:37 PM
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i would say bolt every three feet is overdoing it :wink:
anyway, just bolt the crux so you can clip the bolts (no uise having them if you cant use them), otherwise, put the first bolt about 2m off the deck, the second 4m and the 3rd 6m, others at intervals of 3m or more.
also depends on the route in question (slab, overhanging, ledges...)
and i assume youre talking about bolting, since in trad everyone takes care about hes own pro.
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tweek
Feb 18, 2004, 12:24 AM
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You should post this in the Trad section. You would get much more supportive rage for your pridicament.
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drkodos
Feb 18, 2004, 12:32 AM
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The mental pygmies that champion ultra-safety have no parameters whatsoever for this side of risk.
The problem however also lies in your own perception that someone actually cares that you did the FA and have some claim of ownership, or so it would seem.
Certaily if THE route itself is deserving of some attention and respect, and is in an area that respects FA ethics then retrobolting is reprehensible and perhaps a concensus will determine a fututre course of action against such behaviors.
In the meantime, please feel free to take it personally and entertain us with more details of both the situation itself and the sordid emotional batherings that partner it.
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skiclimb
Feb 18, 2004, 12:37 AM
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Personally the sport routes i've put I could care less if someone added bolts to em...however I might be pissed if they chepped em cause I put time and money into placing them...generally I' be surprised if anyone added anything to em as I take care to make the routes reasonably safe and convenient for clipping...But if they do I could care less....I didn't even name some of them cause really I just don't care. I did em for myself with consideration for other users.
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scubasnyder
Feb 18, 2004, 1:17 AM
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use gear whenever you want, the closer you place protection, the more you need...I guess that depends though.
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curt
Feb 18, 2004, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: In the meantime, please feel free to take it personally and entertain us with more details of both the situation itself and the sordid emotional batherings that partner it.
Good thing we're not playing Scrabble. I'd call you on that one. :lol:
Curt
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sbclimber
Feb 18, 2004, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: i would say bolt every three feet is overdoing it :wink: anyway, just bolt the crux so you can clip the bolts (no uise having them if you cant use them), otherwise, put the first bolt about 2m off the deck, the second 4m and the 3rd 6m, others at intervals of 3m or more.
1st bolt at 2m seems a bit overkill huh? (maybe never been to josh) Skip that one and start three or 4 meters off the deck.
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moss1956
Feb 18, 2004, 1:37 AM
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When I see a bolted climb that follows a really juicy crack, I wonder what the person was thinking. I don't really care. I can choose to not use the bolts. I just wonder why someone would sweat it out with a hammer, or worse yet some roaring power tool, getting those bolts placed just right, when they could be climbing.
Usually, there is little intersection between sport climbing and trad. Sport is generally about faces, trad is about cracks. Of course there are places like eldo where you climb the face and put the protection in cracks. On limestone you can protect pockets, and climb a face. Still, sport and trad are really different rock sports, that both get called climbing.
A lot of the time I wonder why people get their underwear in a bunch. Can't we just... get along?
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gregtrammell
Feb 18, 2004, 1:41 AM
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Just bolt it so you don't deck, and make sure you bolt the crux.
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sbclimber
Feb 18, 2004, 1:49 AM
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In reply to: Just bolt it so you don't deck, and make sure you bolt the crux.
true. but place the bolts before and after the crux, not in the middle of it.
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