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Bouldering in Colorado Springs
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3wp


Feb 11, 2004, 11:15 PM
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Bouldering in Colorado Springs
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I recently moved to Colorado Springs from Utah and am wanting to know were I can boulder around here:?:


helmut


Feb 11, 2004, 11:17 PM
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Re: Bouldering in Colorado Springs [In reply to]
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I hear that there is good bouldering up elevenmile canyon


tradkelly


Feb 11, 2004, 11:25 PM
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Re: Bouldering in Colorado Springs [In reply to]
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Try
http://www.coloradospringsclimbing.com
and
http://www.springsclimbingguide.com
for starters.

Snake Pit at GoG is a decent place, if small and unimaginative; you'll likely, if your personable, meet some interesting people there that you might want to hang with. It's also good for solo time. Other traverse stuff at Red Spire and below Cocaine might be what you're looking for, there. I personally haven't explored the canyon across from Waldo, but I believe one or both of the two websites above cover some introduction.


bauerbrian


Feb 11, 2004, 11:45 PM
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I think the best bouldering in the Springs is Ute Pass! Careful of the access.


3wp


Feb 12, 2004, 4:21 PM
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Thanx for the insight. I do consider myself personable so with that being said I hope to meet up with some fellow adrenaline junkies. I actually work right by Ute Park. I hear there are some places within the park?


bigdan


Feb 15, 2004, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
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Re: Bouldering in Colorado Springs [In reply to]
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By Ute Park do you mean Ute Valley Park, just north of Garden of the Gods? That place is fun once you get used to the sometimes sandy rock. You just have to find the good stuff. We go out there all the time. I'd go here before the Garden, which kind of sucks on the whole. It has its fun stuff, but Ute Valley has much better concentration, and much more in the way of overhanging, powerful problems.

Ute Pass is definitely the best in the area. You can find a good amount of video footage from Ute Pass, and other stuff on my site, http://www.coloradospringsclimbing.com. Let me know if you have any questions, I know the bouldering around here as well as anybody.

Have fun!

-Dan


nealric


Feb 21, 2004, 5:01 AM
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Ute pass across from waldo is bouldering par excellance.
The lowdown on the acess issues:

Park at waldo canyon and cross highway 24 (for the love of GOD)

Keep it quiet. I had the misfortune of getting caught the first time I went there because some bonehead parked at the gate and alerted the watershed employees.

They basically threaten you, take your photo and tell you its a 1,000 find if you ever come back- but they wont do anything the first time. If someone comes to you why you are bouldering and tells you to leave DO NOT walk down the road like I did (its a trap). RUN- down the hill and jump the gate before they say anything.

Other than ute:
Snakepit at garden: go around the loop to the far parking lot and walk down the trail towards the entrance- its kinda small- but its pretty good.

There is lots of bouldering above the incline on pikes peak- kind of a hike for just bouldering but you get your cardio too :)

11 mile- lots of random bouldering there- its about an hour away up 24. Usually I end up doing trad there thouhg.

Sheeps nose: south platte crag about 45 min away- I havent been there bu there are supposed to be some decent problems.

Castlewood canyon: Cool conglomerate area near castle rock. Lots of bouldering.

Or for max points: drive 8 hrs to Hueco :lol:


bigdan


Feb 23, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Sheep's Nose has a crazy amount of rock, much of it barely developed. We're talking hundreds and hundreds of problems. Most people stay in the area covered in the CO Bouldering guidebook, in the Air Jordan Boulder vicinity. But that's just a little spot on that hillside.

For Ute Pass, the access beta above is pretty much right on. From my site...

"Technically speaking, nobody is allowed to go here, as it is the property of Manitou Watershed. If you climb here, make sure that impact, noise, and litter does not become noticable. Use little chalk when possible, use NO tick-marks AT ALL. They are unnecessary! Don't cut trees, trample bushes, or flatten landings. Don't bring boomboxes along. Don't scream and yell (not too much, anyway). Don't camp. Long-time local and Ute Pass developer Stewart Green stresses that "access is very tentative there and could be withdrawn at any time. We can only boulder there by being unobstrusive and not making fires or misbehaving. The Manitou workers can and will kick you out of there..." Don't be the one to cause problems."

The only thing I would add is that I've never heard of any trouble parking at the gate. Someone is parked there nearly every day. I've run into, and spoken with, Watershed employees on several different occasions. They were pleasant and had no problems with boulderers, so long as we keep it low-key. That said, it's probably better to park in the lot and stay out of sight, just to be safe.


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