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brycehj
Feb 25, 2004, 3:41 AM
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Do you like slabby routes?
Overhangs?
Technical?
I work in a gym and would like some input on fun routes.
Thanks.
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climber49er
Feb 25, 2004, 4:21 AM
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I like technical, overhanging slabs.
Really, I'm not sure anyone could describe a "fun" gym route very well.
Wouldn't it go something like, "Yeah, there's this great route at the gym, bro! It has this super rad, 8 1/2" long by 3 1/4" by 2" tall half round blue sloper that has half the texure worn off so it's EXTRA hard to hang on to and it's like, 3 1/2 feet off the ground and you kind of hang wierd under it and go to a... never mind..." :?
Everybody's got their own style and idea of fun. Just set a bunch of stuff and if they are fun people will climb them.
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dynoguy
Feb 25, 2004, 4:40 AM
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Trust me, if you set it they will climb it.
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dietzpa
Feb 25, 2004, 5:10 AM
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the MOST FUN TYPE of route, in my opinion, is anything that makes you feel like you deserve a sponsership of some sort.
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duckwalk
Feb 25, 2004, 5:23 AM
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The one thats actually OUTside ( c'mon , I had too). But seriously, I like the not so overhang technical ones, because they simulate the outdoor climbing I do the most.
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reprieve
Feb 25, 2004, 5:29 AM
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"funnest". awesome
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berkov
Feb 25, 2004, 7:05 AM
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sparse stretched out that make you have to really think and get creative
and for fun multipitch lead from the bottom belay the second, third, fourth the more the merrier from the top traverse down climb pendulum and whatever other shenanigans you can think of
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simianboy
Feb 25, 2004, 7:13 AM
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I like roof problems in the gym because I haven't found one outside that I can climb yet.
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wildduck
Feb 25, 2004, 10:28 AM
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Overhangs are great...
Roof probs... not bad too...
but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best !
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jtcronk
Feb 25, 2004, 11:42 AM
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Hmmm....I'd have to say the ones that are outside, multi-pitch, and covered in ice....Oops, that wouldn't be indoor. :twisted:
Seriously, I think I good mix is the best you can do. Overhanging routes are great for making you strong, but are discouraging for newbies. Other than that, I'd love to see more gyms that allow dry tooling, even if it's restricted to woody holds. But that probalby won't happen......
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b_fost
Feb 25, 2004, 12:22 PM
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In reply to: Overhangs are great... Roof probs... not bad too... but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best !
jumping is the point of dYno routes.
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dontfall
Feb 25, 2004, 2:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Overhangs are great... Roof probs... not bad too... but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best ! jumping is the point of dYno routes.
"do you understand me...dur, yet dur."-Major Payne
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meatball
Feb 25, 2004, 2:58 PM
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My gym takes a unique approach to route setting:
On overhung low walls with a high hold density they set long "numbered" boulder problems. For example, from the starting hold you move right hand to #1, then left hand to #2, then right hand to #3, and so on. All feet are on.
I like these for a number of reasons:
1) They feel less restricting than traditional indoor routes/problems which dictate where your feet must go. I think this helps me learn to "read" rock by forcing me to make my own decisions about foot placement (IMHO--a very important aspect of outdoor climbing that is typically hard to hone in the gym).
2)Great for running laps/endurance because most of the routes end where they begin.
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the_antoon
Feb 25, 2004, 3:00 PM
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a nice crimpy one, a big juggy one that goes to the roof, a short roof route, and LOTS OF DYNOS!!!! :D
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ryanhurl
Feb 25, 2004, 3:01 PM
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Overhangs are awesome, roofs in gyms are usually pretty fun too. And like someone else said, typically the only place I can do a roof.
However, variety is the spice of life, or so they say. I'd have to go with Tabasco tho.
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thinksinpictures
Feb 25, 2004, 3:03 PM
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Two types:
1.) routes that "feel" like real rock - holds that simulate actual rock texture and movement that seems like one might find it outdoors. This means that there's probably a cross-over or two (in my experience nature isn't very likely to offer up a series of evenly spaced, left hand-right hand-left hand moves), the angle/steepness of the climb varies, and that the hold types are varied and don't feel like polished plastic.
2.) The complete opposite - routes that have interesting/odd moves that are very rare outside. Best example: Figure 4.
Essentially these types of routes cover the few good reasons that I hit up a gym: either it's too cold/rainy and I have no choice (in which case I want a route of the first variety) or I want to try a type of route/move that isn't available at any of the climbing areas near me.
Now if only they could replicate cracks indoors so I don't suck on them when I move back out west...
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petro
Feb 25, 2004, 3:04 PM
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I like the "natural" lines the best. The cracks and seams that are moulded into the "rock". The ones you can send without using a screwed on "hold".
Other than that, bouldering routes that use one or two giant slopey holds exclusively, with crappy feet that you have to mantle and otherwise manhandle to get up. Really, anything that utilizes overhanging, slopey, balancy, static moves. Any route that makes you have to think about your body position to stick to what seems impossible.
-Tom
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pixelguru
Feb 25, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Any route that attracts a crowd, each cheering and climbing in turn - throwing everything they can at it to send the route. That's a good gym route.
Any route that has at least two or three ways to send it, with each way favoring a different build of climber, but each equally difficult. That's a good gym route.
Any route that forces you to be a better climber - requiring gymnastic stretches, hand-foot, hand-hand-foot matches and the balance of a cat to send. Those are fun gym routes.
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nicebooty
Feb 25, 2004, 4:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2004
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I like the indoor sport routes with the dynos and roofs that lead to the top of the rappel tower, with the slackline from one rap tower, to the haning belay 45 feet up. Its the funnest ever !
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crackscars
Feb 25, 2004, 4:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2004
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I like a combination of slopers and crimpers...to work on both, personally. I have a weakness for slopers. It's not often that I see the combo, usually it's a crimper route or a sloper route..so mix em up. (especially for bouldering...) Of course, if you could similate some more cracks in the gym, that would be much appreciated..
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j_ung
Feb 25, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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In reply to: Trust me, if you set it they will climb it.
Ain't that the truth.
Here are a couple of ideas:
1. Set routes that follow natural lines in the wall's features, for example, aretes and corners.
2. Augment your gym's features-only lines with a few bolt-on holds to make them more accessible to less-skilled climbers.
3. Set routes that have a theme, for example, several of a specific type of move or hold, but with varying hold sizes and shapes; all pockets, all slopers, etc.
4. Set gimick routes, for example, routes with pendulums, routes that spiral all the way around a pillar, routes with down climbing or maybe one with a long sideways dyno (beware of spinners). Be creative!
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trillium
Feb 25, 2004, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2001
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My favorite type of gym route is balancey, technical, with very small holds, a bit of a reach, and the constant threat of barn-dooring; the type of route where if you laugh, glance elsewhere, or breath too hard, you knock yourself off.
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redpoint73
Feb 25, 2004, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: "funnest". awesome
Yeah! The proper grammar is obviously "most funner"!
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powen
Feb 25, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Okay, my personal faves from gym climbs... I love mantle problems that rise up dihedrals, and it has to have really fat slopers with really hard finishes. I really love it when I have to go from concentrating on really burly moves to really dicey balanced ones.
My second favorite has to be fat, stemming, rip your chalk sack in half, chimneys. I've only done a couple, since my regular gym has no chimney, but the one or two I have done are just awesome. Again, burly moves mixed with dicey balanced ones.
Of course, this is all just in preparation for my favorite types of routes... outdoors:)
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debsanders
Feb 25, 2004, 6:16 PM
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I love it when our gym puts up "numbers" underneath what we refer to as the prow (large triangular shaped overhang). There are three seperate sets from easy to hard (large holds to micro) they usually go from 1 - 30. You start at the bottom of prow somewhere in the middle and move to the right then up to the apex of the triangle then back down to the left and right to where you started.
This is a great way to mark your progress. Start out one year only doing up to hold 10 then before you know it several years later you can do both the easy and mediums while working on the hard stuff.
Our gym puts up numbers several times a year and leaves them for approximately 6 weeks. I love it! They were up last night, we had soooo much fun.
It's something climbers can do together or alone and is always a great way to get to know climbers you don't normally climb with.
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