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addiroids
Jan 24, 2002, 4:36 AM
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In the Aid Climbing Bible (Chongo's Ground Manual) the first step to climbing a big route is telling your friends about it so you cannot back down. So here it goes:
During the second week in October,
Wallhammer and I, will climb The Nose of El Capitan.
Sure, this may not be much to a few of you out there, but it will be a really big step in my aid climbing career. I have learned a lot (thanks to Pete) and climbed a few shorter walls. During Spring Break, I will be in Zion ironing out the kinks to be ready for The Big Stone. The only unfortunate thing is that I don't get out of school until mid-June so it will be hot by then, but hopefully we can get it done in less than 6 days (I'm still not the fastest aid climber in the world) so we don't suffer too much.
It has been my dream to climb El Cap ever since I first drove into the Valley 2 summers ago. Not just to summit it, but to CLIMB it. The Nose is the most famous route in the world, and I practically have it memorized, so it seems to be the logical choice.
And the best part is that I will be doing it with my friend who has the same experience as me. It just wouldn't be the same if I did it with someone like Pete or atg200 who could almost guarentee success.
I may do a shorter wall to warm up for it (S Face of Column, or W Face of Tower again), but I will have to get on The Nose very soon to beat the heat.
Another big reason The Nose is such a great route is because two (three, okay, four) great climbers have their names forever linked to it. Warren Harding, who did the impossible back in 1958 by climbing right up the middle of the FACE of El Cap when the other routes of the time went around the side. Jim "the Bird" Bridwell (and John Long) who were the first to blast the entire 36 pitches of it in a day in the early 1970's. And the great Lynn Hill who is the only person to free climb every pitch of it on lead (and in a day)!!! And that we will take about 30 times longer to do it than it has been done (3h 23min?) recently.
So I just wanted to let everyone know about my intention and dream. Maybe after that I can learn how to pound pins and do some real aid climbing.
TRADitionally (and about to go throw up now) yours,
Addiroids
(edits were adding "bold's" and updating the date it will be done)
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2002-09-26 21:10 ]
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woodse
Jan 24, 2002, 4:43 AM
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SWEET!!!!!!!!!!:D
Good luck on your first attempt, hope it happens for you.
woodsE
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pianomahnn
Jan 24, 2002, 6:03 AM
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Good luck.
Aid on, and whatnot.
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darkside
Jan 24, 2002, 6:19 AM
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Ya'd best be posting and telling us how it went then. And remember, retreating from the wall would be 'a shame', but now you've declared your intention, chickening out would be 'SHAMEFUL'.
Hope this makes it harder for you to back out.
Good luck and enjoy.
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beta
Jan 24, 2002, 5:00 PM
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Ahhhh!!
To realize a dream. Something you will remember for the rest of your life.
I hope to follow your example someday.
beta
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passthepitonspete
Jan 24, 2002, 5:39 PM
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Dear Paul,
I very much believe in the concept of "accountability."
By making your public declaration to climb The Big Stone, you have made yourself, at least in some small way, accountable to us.
This is a good thing because you are now committed.
You have put your credibility on the line, and this takes guts.
The Nose was my first ascent of El Cap. It was not easy. It took us a lot of determination, and we ended up benighted in the Stovelegs where we hung in our aiders all night.
Yet never did we entertain the thought of quitting. We ended up on the summit without a drop of water or a scrap of food.
But do note:
We ended up on the SUMMIT!
Please click here if you would like to read about Dr. Piton's Survival Epic on The Nose.
Climbing El Cap requires a combination of many factors. I and others can help you with the technical elements, so you will at least know what you are doing. In fact, by hanging around here, you will know far more than most who climb The Nose, for you will know the better way.
The other elements include courage and perseverence.
I can offer you all of the Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips you never wanted, but you will receive no better advice than this:
Expect to suffer
Keep on keepin' on
Do not quit until you reach the summmit!
If you follow these simple instructions, you will, in all probability, reach the summit.
Hey - like it works for me, eh?
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climber1
Feb 1, 2002, 5:28 AM
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Good luck, hopefully I will follow in your tracks soon.
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fiend
Feb 1, 2002, 5:47 AM
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Quote: I can offer you all of the Dr. Piton Big Wall Tips you never wanted, but you will receive no better advice than this:
* Expect to suffer
* Keep on keepin' on
* Do not quit until you reach the summmit!
If you follow these simple instructions, you will, in all probability, reach the summit.
mercy, I think that's the best advice you've ever given pete
[ This Message was edited by: fiend on 2002-01-31 21:47 ]
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kman
Feb 1, 2002, 6:28 AM
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Best of luck to you. Make sure you post the details of your climb afterwards.
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atg200
Feb 4, 2002, 11:27 PM
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Good luck Paul, and thanks for the misguided vote of confidence.
atg200 - 0 for 2 on El Cap so far.
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clipngo
Feb 4, 2002, 11:55 PM
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Good luck, hope to read about your trip when you're done.
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kagunkie
Feb 5, 2002, 12:43 AM
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A few words of advice my friend. Work hard to prepare yourself both mentally and physically, and DON'T LET NOTHING STOP YOU! do these things and you'r chances for success are increased. Just think to yourself NOTHINGS GOING TO MAKE ME NOT DO IT EXCEPT FOR INJURY OR RISK OF IMINANT DEATH apart from that nothings stopping me NOTHING!
Oh and it wouldnt hurt to practice your hauling technique either.
Good luck.
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krustyklimber
Feb 5, 2002, 8:09 PM
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We saw it here folks, now he's gotta do it!
We're pullin' for ya dude! Make sure you can set up your hauling systems well and you'll be alot better off! Keep your eye on the prize! Best of luck!
Jeff
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uhighfreak
Feb 5, 2002, 8:23 PM
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Awesome!!!!! Good luck on the climb. I hope everything is successful and, as other posted, give the details of the climb on the site
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mikedano
Feb 5, 2002, 8:33 PM
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Good good luck, dude. Post some pictures for us pencil-pushing desk jockies.
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socalclimber
Feb 25, 2002, 2:44 AM
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Ok I'll bite! I'm gearing up for Ten Days After on the Column. Not quite El Cap, but it's a warm up for something bigger. I'm only going to commit myself to one wall at a time (at least publicly)!
r.f
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milesdesbrie
Mar 29, 2002, 5:24 AM
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Okay dammit I've got a good partner and all the gear and I'm going to be firing off on the Prow on Washington Column in Yosemite on 4/2/02. YOU HEARD ME, THE PROW. Okay, now I can't wimp out.
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passthepitonspete
Mar 29, 2002, 5:31 AM
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Right on!
SEND IT, dude. And be sure to let us know how you did.
"Better to go down in flames than to fade into the mediocrity of 'plain vanilla'. "
Looks good on you, mate!
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crazywacky
Mar 29, 2002, 6:00 AM
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Holy Cow!
All these declarations of challenges to be met and defeated are making me all warm and giddy.
So here goes.
I am going to Climb my FUTON SOLO and sleep on it for at least THREE hours!
There, I feel better now...
Good luck to all of you.
I'm jealous...
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agrauch
Mar 30, 2002, 9:34 AM
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So,I'm off to the Valley today. Like many others I shall make make the Big Announcement.
My friend from Colorado and I will be climbing Zodiac. Everyone in the immediate area is invited to watch, speculate, and laugh. I'll be doing the same.
Think DRY.
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stigonrock
Mar 30, 2002, 10:10 AM
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Man..just woke up and the suns out here in good ol' England and I saw this post.
I suspect all you guys over the ocean are still tucked cosily in your beds in a state of dreams.
I agree with PTPP. It does take balls to announce a big goal publicly as it puts the spotlight on ya and the pressure is on so too speak. Sometimes its good to do this and place ourselves under such pressure, it means we HAVE to go for it.
So best of luck to you and may you make it all the way. The first road to success is just 'trying' our goals and going for it. You're already on your way man, so keep going for it, keep training and DON'T look back!
Ang
[ This Message was edited by: stigonrock on 2002-03-30 02:13 ]
[ This Message was edited by: stigonrock on 2002-03-30 02:14 ]
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mountainrat
Mar 30, 2002, 12:10 PM
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Friend- I can tell that you and PTPP have had some contact and/or interaction- you both display many similarities in your writing styles... Hahaha. BEST OF LUCK, dude- I hope this experience is nothing short of an epiphany for you.
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milesdesbrie
Apr 4, 2002, 6:56 AM
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Well we went for it but we were SHUT DOWN by having a slow party ahead of us. At least I got to lead the first pitch.
I feel okay about it because I wasn't at my physical best anyway, and learned a lot to apply to my *next* effort.
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addiroids
Apr 4, 2002, 7:20 AM
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Just pass the mofo's. In true Euro style, just clip their gear, tie off on their anchor, and use their head as a foothold. I'm sorry it didn't work out. This summer we saw a girl bailing off the Prow (solo) due to lack of committment (as we were approaching S. Face). She looked like she had her sh!t together, but for some reason just didn't feel right. We tried to cheer her up and make her laugh, and it worked, but she still was bummed. Ohh well. Hopefully she is still going strong.
On another note, Wigglestick just climbed Prodigal Son (IV C2) in Zion. He was climbing from 6am to 12 midnight. Congrats to him and his partner on a great climb. It's nice to see others succeed where I bailed (pitch 5). That will not happen this summer though.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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milesdesbrie
Apr 30, 2002, 1:55 AM
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This Thursday, May 2, I'm heading back to Yosemite for another whack at the Prow. This time I'm planning on soloing it. I have my solo system pretty well worked out and think it's high time I put it to the test.
The following Tuesday my partner is coming up from L.A. and we're going to try to get on Zodiac. I picked up the necessary iron today and think that the next time I have to saw off angles I'm just going to let Dr. Piton do it for me.
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