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Shoes? Any advice?
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nathanial4


Mar 2, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Shoes? Any advice?
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Hello,

I am looking to buy my first pair of climbing shoes. I like the Mythos and Cliff Rock from LaSportiva. I have another pair of LaSportiva's (running shoes) and I like them very much but I am not sold out to them. What do you think? Any other models that would work?

BTW, I will be toproping, bouldering, climbing indoor walls.

Thanks in advance for you help!


nagatana


Mar 2, 2004, 4:13 AM
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Loads of advice.


Partner cliffhanger9
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Mar 2, 2004, 4:37 AM
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yea...really dude...run a search

you ll find tons of links

http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/view.php?ID=130

as well as gear reviews that people have already documented their experiences

good lucky and rock on!! :mrgreen:


mountainchick82


Mar 2, 2004, 5:28 AM
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i have the mythos in the women's version and i love them. comfy even when i'm belaying in the gym after a few hours of climbing. no complaints!

cheers! good luck!


rendog


Mar 2, 2004, 9:07 AM
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try on as many differnet kinds as you can find then go with the ones that don't have any of the nasty a$$ hotspots that come with a lot of shoe companies.

eg: personally I can't even think about wearing scarpa shoes, I like the looks of them but no way in hell will they fit my feet. sportiva and boreal rock and now I'm goign to give montrail shoes a try. will let you know


overlord


Mar 2, 2004, 9:26 AM
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get some good velcros, like la sportiva katanas or 5.10 anasazi or mad rock flash


josephine


Mar 2, 2004, 4:11 PM
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also....Shoe thread index


Partner drrock


Mar 2, 2004, 4:15 PM
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roc-dude
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Mar 2, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Mythos are great shoes. A top choice for me, But the soles tend to wear out fast with new climbers. The way they are shaped allows new climbing to wear out the Rands fast with toe taps and toe drags. I feel there are better shoes for a person who has not developed their foot work. Go for cheaper pair of shoes at first you can buy two pairs of shoes for the price of one pair of Mythos. Next time you are ready to buy a pair of shoes look at the Mythos then. Never have had a pair of Cliffs, but they seem to be better suited for a new climber.


j-tha-b
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Mar 2, 2004, 5:19 PM
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dude, 5.10 ascents are tha shiznay. my ascents are soooo sticky. but yeah la sportivas are good, i used to run thoseand tehy are sticky. if you are just bouldering and such velcros are good. but lace ups get snugger to your feet. so whichever. enjoy. also you get what you pay for.
peace


gregtrammell


Mar 2, 2004, 5:44 PM
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best advice is to try on several different pair, in several different sizes, till you find a pair that fit just right.
the name brand shoes have similar rubber compounds. some a little softer or stickier than others.
but fit is the most important.


fredrogers


Mar 2, 2004, 5:51 PM
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I know it must be confusing as a beginner seeing the tons of shoe choices out there. But it honestly doesn't matter too much what you buy as long as they fit well (OK maybe soft slippers shouldn't be used - get something with laces or velcro).

As a beginner, you get better by climbing, period. Forget about what brand your shoes are. Your footwork will be so awful that it won't matter what's on your foot. Plus your shoes will wear out and you will get new ones. It's not like these are the first and last pair of shoes you'll ever own. With each new purchase you'll have a better idea of what you like.


daisuke


Mar 4, 2004, 1:39 PM
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listen to fred and not the rest of them!

he's right, you'll destroy your first pair of shoes in no time at all so just go with something cheap and comfy, I'd suggest brands like Bufo from germany, or the spanish Tenaya, they cost half of what other shoes cost and are better than half as good.

another thing you might want to look at is what kind of climbing you have around your place, some shoes work best for certain kinds of rock and you might want to buy according to that as well. For example: the boreal stinger sucks on routes that have any kind of friction moves involved, in fact from the times I've worn them, the stingers just suck, period.

but anyway, heed fred's advice and don't spend as much as sportiva shoes cost the first time out. and buy according to what the rock dictates.

D


aklimerguy


Mar 4, 2004, 2:26 PM
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You know, You shouldn't put too much cash on your first pair. Buy something comfortable instead of really tight and painfull. If you're starting off you wont be climbing 5.12 till a couple of years and you'll know better by then what you really want.


oudinardin


Mar 4, 2004, 2:37 PM
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Just buy the most expensive pair. New climbers take forever to wear out a shoe 8) , so you simply need the best buddy. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :P


litleclimberchick


Mar 5, 2004, 11:33 PM
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cliffs were my first pair of climbing shoes...they were okay i guess. though i think you should probably go with mad rock's, any model it doesn't really matter. they are inexpensive and work pretty well. :)


maika


Mar 8, 2004, 1:16 AM
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My first pair of shoes, which I wore out in about 7-months, were the MadRock Phoenix, which were really nice and comfortable. I have moved on to the Anasazi Velcro, by 5.10, which are my favorite shoes! They would be great, because they are easy to take off, but if pain is a determining factor for you, then stay away from them!


no_limit


Mar 8, 2004, 3:12 AM
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no_limit moved this thread from Beginners to Gear Heads.


petzlhanger721


Mar 9, 2004, 5:19 AM
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"FIVE TEN" Thats all you ever need to know. C4 on the sole and you cant go wrong...If you are starting out the mojave area really good shoe i just got some for my girlfirend and she loves them. I am on my third pair and dude they cant be beat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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