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pcfcclmbr
Mar 8, 2004, 10:46 PM
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I read the mags as do most people and it seems as though if you don't climb 5.13 to 5.14 there's something wrong with you. But every time I go to the crags, and I've been to a number of locations in the US, there is rarely anybody on anything harder than 10a and there are people in line to climb anything easier. Is it me, or is this hyper grade thing not as real as they make it out to be? Have a good one!
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gravy
Mar 8, 2004, 10:54 PM
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I'd say climbing the average climber, like a boulder prob, V0, unless he/she's really tall or has a big gut, which could push it up to V3.
Oh, that's not what you were asking. Yeah, I agree. Reading about how so-and-so climbed 5.17ddd bores me to death. Who cares?
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drkayak
Mar 8, 2004, 11:01 PM
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My partner has a theory that for every number grade you loose 1/2 the climbers. As in.... 100 climbers can climb 5.7, 50 climbers can climb 5.8, 25 climbers can climb 5.9, 12 can climb 5.10... and only 6 can climb 5.11
Anything beyond 5.11 yor are talking about a very small % of the climbing comunity.
I think this is pretty true.
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drkodos
Mar 8, 2004, 11:21 PM
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I had a B- average in high school, but we didn't have classes in climbing, so I think maybe I would have gotten an A, but the teacher probably would like me anyway so then probably just a C.
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holmeslovesguinness
Mar 8, 2004, 11:27 PM
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There are definitely more people who care about how many people climb higher numbers than people who actually climb higher numbers.
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dredsovrn
Mar 8, 2004, 11:31 PM
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Like most things in life, people only have so much time or inclination to make the commitment to perform at a high level in any given area. Some people choose climbing as a hobby. Unless you are genetically gifted, you are unlikely to climb better than .8-.10 without some more serious level of committment.
Beyond my job and family, I spend a significant ammount of time either training for, studying about, or actually climbing. I have a great passion for it and see it more as a way of life. That's what works for me, but it doesn't mean that climbing three times a year and never going higher than 5.6 is bad. Nor is climbing 5.14. Wouldn't be real interesting to read that Bob Jones just redpointed that 50' 5.6 he has been working on though. Nice but, boring.
Enjoy the journey and don't worry about the end. Whatever journey it is you choose to embark on. There really is no end until you are dead, and many believe that is not the end either.
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barefeetnochalk
Mar 8, 2004, 11:39 PM
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Where i come from the average grade for the average climber seams to be around 17-22 (dunno what that is on the 5. scale). It seems that if u really wanna put up good grades u'd best get your ass into training (weights, running n'stuff). ive only meet a few people who could climb 27+ and only one dude who could climb over 30. Me, im just a boulderer and can put up a much higher boulder grade than any sport route i can climb.
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scottcody
Mar 9, 2004, 12:14 AM
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In reply to: There are definitely more people who care about how many people climb higher numbers than people who actually climb higher numbers.
That works on so many levels and on so many topics :)
You just gave me a new mantra
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whyknot
Mar 9, 2004, 1:12 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'd say climbing the average climber, like a boulder prob, V0, unless he/she's really tall or has a big gut, which could push it up to V3. I'm 5'1" and at one time climbed a V4, so height has nothing to do with it, but that's not what this is about.
boulderingchickypoo - If I understand gravy's post correctly, you are probably a V4. At 5'1" you are probably a sick hard sit start.
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organic
Mar 9, 2004, 2:59 AM
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when do those 'STFU n00b' t-shirts start to go on sale?
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jt512
Mar 9, 2004, 3:09 AM
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In reply to: when do those 'STFU n00b' t-shirts start to go on sale?
Hey, that's not a half-bad idea.
-Jay
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deleted
Deleted
Mar 9, 2004, 3:21 AM
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i know from sources that i won't mention that the average climber climbs, on lead, around 5.8 sport.
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whitefingers
Mar 9, 2004, 3:30 AM
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This would be a great time for me to say something clever, instead I will just sit here and scratch my head and wonder what grade I would be to climb. A balancy, thin face with a bold finish, probably about 5.10a
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curt
Mar 9, 2004, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: when do those 'STFU n00b' t-shirts start to go on sale? Hey, that's not a half-bad idea. -Jay
Alas, boldering.com has no doubt copyrighted this.
Curt
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jt512
Mar 9, 2004, 3:35 AM
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In reply to: i know from sources that i won't mention that the average climber climbs, on lead, around 5.8 sport.
He asked about the average climber, not the average non-climber.
-Jay
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jookyhead
Mar 9, 2004, 3:45 AM
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Boulderingchick makes me laugh :lol:
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angry
Mar 9, 2004, 4:26 AM
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I actually met the average climber, he was an ugly SOB, drove an 80's subaru, had sandals, a dog with a backpack, 7.3 camalots, 8.9 WC friends 2.4 aliens and a bunch of draws. When I saw this average climber climb, the first thing I thought was "gee, his movement is not spectacular at all, in fact it seems very average", when I checked the grade of the route, I found that it was in fact, quite average. I examined the route he was on, I realized that it was also very average.
When I took stock of this average day I realized, to see so much averageness in a day, I must be extraordinary. I'm cooler than you and I need another beer.
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billcoe_
Mar 9, 2004, 4:43 AM
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In fact I heard that the average climber cannot even spell fife thirtean, let alone fife fortean.
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asandh
Mar 9, 2004, 4:31 PM
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:)
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crazygirl
Mar 9, 2004, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: you have to eliminate everyone climbing less than 2 years because they're not really climbers, they're just playing around trying to see if they really like the sport.
what is an average climber has been climbing for 2 years? its possible, it seems to be the case with rc.com
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leinosaur
Mar 9, 2004, 5:09 PM
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nOOb referring to authority:
Freedom of the Hills claims says 5.8-5.9 is the level at which most weekend climbers become comfortable -
that leaves a lot of wiggle room - maybe they can pull off a 5.10b or so but aren't too comfortable with it?
I ain't there yet, that's f'shizzle; I'm beat from climbin' greens at the silos last night - OKC Rocks!
leinosaur
shameless nOOb
but tying in with a yosemite-finish bowline
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crazygirl
Mar 9, 2004, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: I read the mags as do most people and it seems as though if you don't climb 5.13 to 5.14 there's something wrong with you. But every time I go to the crags, and I've been to a number of locations in the US, there is rarely anybody on anything harder than 10a and there are people in line to climb anything easier. Is it me, or is this hyper grade thing not as real as they make it out to be? Have a good one!
if you read magazines, you'd think that an average american woman is 5'10'' (i'm talking about height, not climbing grade), and weights 100lbs.
in actuality, an average woman is 5'4'' and weights 140lbs. the magazines don't reflect this.
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igsaisb
Mar 9, 2004, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: I'd say climbing the average climber, like a boulder prob, V0, unless he/she's really tall or has a big gut, which could push it up to V3. I'm 5'1" and at one time climbed a V4, so height has nothing to do with it, but that's not what this is about. boulderingchickypoo - If I understand gravy's post correctly, you are probably a V4. At 5'1" you are probably a sick hard sit start.
I'm taking that last line over to the "best climbing pick up lines" thread.
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boz84
Mar 9, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Not a bad guess, but Id have to say its more of a curve.
Quite a few people can climb up to 5.10a/b, after this exponentially fewer and fewer people can reach the next grades.
Lets say 100 can climb 5.10a, 50 may be able to climb 5.10c, but only 15 may be able to climb 5.11a, etc
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rock_raptor
Mar 9, 2004, 6:31 PM
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In reply to: you have to eliminate everyone climbing less than 2 years because they're not really climbers, they're just playing around trying to see if they really like the sport.
hmm...i guess that would be a good thing be cause the folks i climb with would ruin the curve for the average climber. personnaly, i was leading 5.10 sporties within one year and following 5.10+ trad within in two years. the wimps that i climb with were leading 5.12 sport within two years, bouldering v6, consistent 5.10 trad leaders, and also decent aid climbers.
yeah, i guess you better leave them out...it'll ruin the curve
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