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chronicle
Mar 8, 2004, 8:11 PM
Post #126 of 198
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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I like the SB system. It is fun, and you get to see how many SB3s you can convert into SB2s each time out. Frankly, that is how I boulder now.
A problem is either:
Very easy and I use it to warm up on
Moderate - I can do it almost every attempt and I may fall from it
Hard - I've tried, but have never completed
Even once I send a hard problem, I won't downgrade it until I've repeated the problem. Honestly, I can't tell the difference between a V6 and a V7. and I've had some overhanging V4s kick my ass. I think it all depends on the style of climbing, and where your strong points are.
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climbersoze
Mar 8, 2004, 8:17 PM
Post #127 of 198
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My whole desire to climb stems from a desire to climb mountains and technical mountaineering... not just go to the crags and pull down.
If the hardest mountain on earth had a pitch of 14c that was absolutely necessary, then I guess I would have to climb at least 14c.... but for me, it is being on top that makes me happy... if I had to do it via 5.9 or 5.12, it wouldnt matter as much, since I was sitting on top.
Now, of course, I do get pleasure from pulling a hard line... but the climber in me just wants to top out... the athlete occassionally wants to push the grades.
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murf
Mar 8, 2004, 11:29 PM
Post #128 of 198
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In reply to: troll. i think everyone is abundantly clear on the fact that the potato chip in question,
In reply to: but joe....just doesn't..seem...to..get it.....that we're on a utterly different topic.
1.) BVB climbs hard
2.) jt512 needs to climb more sport before he can climb Grit Roof
3.) Numbers are for homos
4.) Grades are nature's way of keeping worthless n00bs off of the good climbs.
5.) Grit Roof - Evolution of a climb
6.) Curt loves BVB
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I'm so lost.
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jt512
Mar 8, 2004, 11:36 PM
Post #129 of 198
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In reply to: 2.) jt512 needs to climb more sport before he can climb Grit Roof
Thank god, because, for a second there, I was thinking I'd have to work on my crack technique.
-Jay
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pdwaugy
Mar 8, 2004, 11:40 PM
Post #130 of 198
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Registered: Jul 4, 2003
Posts: 38
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I enjoy climbing harder grades because it challenges me, but i also like to climb lower grades because they are fun and it allows me to climb.
Waugy
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littlebilly
Mar 8, 2004, 11:49 PM
Post #131 of 198
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I personally don't see grades as a destination but rather a scale to measure my own achievements.
A 5.14d is currently the hardest climb humanly possible, but I pay attention to grades only to measure how far I’ve come and not how far I have yet to go.
My philosophy, as it seems to be of most climbers, is to remain humble but not belittling toward my self. As an artist and student I can do a piece and appreciate it and accept complements, but will not parade it around saying how great I am, and neither will I say how awful or misrepresentative it is. The most enjoyable climbers I’ve met are those who can climb high grades, but never have pride or sassiness while with others. They are a complete person and do not need to be accepted by others to enjoy themselves.
With climbing grades are important in that knowing what grade you and your partner climb is essential to your success. Knowing your limitations is essential.
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barefeetnochalk
Mar 8, 2004, 11:51 PM
Post #132 of 198
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Registered: Oct 28, 2003
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When i climb, i just want to get better: stronger etc. and grades are a good indication to myself on how im going. I do care about being able to climb a hard grade. Its particularly satisfying when someone asks what grade you climb and u got something decent to say back....however on that note: u cant just walk up to a climber you know is worse than you and ask them what grade they climb just so they will ask you back, thats just wanky.
if its crimpable, its climbable
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mreardon
Mar 9, 2004, 2:47 AM
Post #133 of 198
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What's this about using a camalot on this thing? Are you guys actually on a rope for that boulder problem? :D
As for whether it's 10c or 11a, granted there's usually not that much difference between the two, but I'll bet the grey hairs left on curt's follically challenged head that there is still a difference. Maybe not for bvb, but that's scotch dependent.
And to the original post - there are those that climb harder grades for the grade, and there are those that just climb, sometimes for the challenge of a hard move.
Personally, I like to just climb. Some days it's one really hard route, other days it's a handful more at an easier level. On Friday I didn't climb any route harder than 11d, but I did 160 of them. On Sunday I got my ass kindly handed to me on one route, but that happened to be a forty foot 13d. Both days were just as fun in their own special way.
Pick your battles, enjoy the challenge and always learn something new, otherwise, go back home and stick to playstation.
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aaxxx
Mar 9, 2004, 9:50 PM
Post #134 of 198
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bob van belle and curt shannon-
you are both embarrassments to the entire climbing community. put a sock in it, friends. take a cue from cilley. how many people on this forum know who he is or what his internet pseudonym is? not too many. or what the hell, take a cue from another veteran. me.
bob, your personal vanity shot is second only to jt512 for overall lameness. even roughster’s picture is better. you’re all so cute. i love you.
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okinawatricam
Mar 9, 2004, 11:29 PM
Post #135 of 198
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
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In reply to: As for whether it's 10c or 11a, granted there's usually not that much difference between the two, but I'll bet the grey hairs left on curt's follically challenged head that there is still a difference. Maybe not for bvb, but that's scotch dependent.
Actually, there is a great difference between the two, maybe not for people who can climb harder than 5.11 but for those who are climbing at or near there limit.
Look at it this way: the difference between 10c and 11a is the same as the difference between 13c and 14a or 14c and 15a. The numbers/grades are irrelevant to the climber, when the climber is climbing well under his ability, but when a climber is climbing near his limit, the difference is huge.
10c is to 11a what 5.7 is to 5.9
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dirtineye
Mar 10, 2004, 12:51 AM
Post #136 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: As for whether it's 10c or 11a, granted there's usually not that much difference between the two, but I'll bet the grey hairs left on curt's follically challenged head that there is still a difference. Maybe not for bvb, but that's scotch dependent. Actually, there is a great difference between the two, maybe not for people who can climb harder than 5.11 but for those who are climbing at or near there limit. Look at it this way: the difference between 10c and 11a is the same as the difference between 13c and 14a or 14c and 15a. The numbers/grades are irrelevant to the climber, when the climber is climbing well under his ability, but when a climber is climbing near his limit, the difference is huge. 10c is to 11a what 5.7 is to 5.9
What the mad bolter and retro bolter (just kidding, sort of) OTC said.
I'll say this about technique, 10c wide cracks are a lot harder than 10c thin face to me. part is the technique involved, and part is that there is this 10c Curtis Glass crack at Sand Rock Alabama called "Path of a Patriot", and the damned thing is lined with sharp iron ore and conglomerate, with hardly any good jams. I TRed it oneday cause a friend wanted to, it was not so bad. Then anotehr day I went back to lead it, didn't tape my hands, and got eaten alive LOL.
So not only technique but the serious "how much of my body will this thing eat" factor plays a part. Jamming on congl;omerate and iron ore is a LOT harder than facd climbing on the same stuff. I've tried both types of climbing at the same grade on the same sort of rock, and I have no doubt as to which is worse. Your fingertips get used to taking a beating, but I never saw caluses on the back of anyone's hand hahaha.
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mreardon
Mar 10, 2004, 12:57 AM
Post #137 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: As for whether it's 10c or 11a, granted there's usually not that much difference between the two, but I'll bet the grey hairs left on curt's follically challenged head that there is still a difference. Maybe not for bvb, but that's scotch dependent. Actually, there is a great difference between the two, maybe not for people who can climb harder than 5.11 but for those who are climbing at or near there limit. Look at it this way: the difference between 10c and 11a is the same as the difference between 13c and 14a or 14c and 15a. The numbers/grades are irrelevant to the climber, when the climber is climbing well under his ability, but when a climber is climbing near his limit, the difference is huge. 10c is to 11a what 5.7 is to 5.9
Slightly disagree here with you. I have yet to get on an 11a that was actually harder than a 10d (sandbags don't count), especially in the traditional areas. The same holds true with 11d v. 12a, 12d v. 13a and 13d v. 14a (I've been on plenty at all those grades). At a place like Joshua Tree, the typical 10d is closer to 11b, and the typical 11d is closer to a 12b, and almost everyone I know that climbs at the 10d level can send 11a/b in almost as many tries as it takes them to do a 10d. That being said, is there a difference between 10c and 11a? Sure, but not anywhere near as much difference as people want to believe.
As far 5.7 v. 5.9 there is a whole lot of difference there. I personally won't do 5.9 anymore because of the complete sandbag potential (many of them at traditional areas tend to be closer to 10b/c), yet 5.7 remains the same in almost any area I've been to.
Then again, it's just my nickel's worth and everyone is entitled to disagree, even if they are wrong. :lol: :lol:
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curt
Mar 10, 2004, 1:29 AM
Post #138 of 198
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In reply to: bob van belle and curt shannon- you are both embarrassments to the entire climbing community. put a sock in it, friends. take a cue from cilley. how many people on this forum know who he is or what his internet pseudonym is? not too many. or what the hell, take a cue from another veteran. me. bob, your personal vanity shot is second only to jt512 for overall lameness. even roughster’s picture is better. you’re all so cute. i love you.
I would say that the only thing more pathetic than Bob's and my shameless spraying here is somebody posting anonymously. If I knew which posts were put here by Dick Cilley, I would probably pay more attention to them. Likewise with your post--sack up, pal. John Gill, John Long, Bob D'Antonio, John Stannard, Rich Goldstone, BVB, Mike Paul, myself and many others post here with our identities known. WTF are you afraid of? If you don't you're just some other clueless n00b to us. :wink: Go ahead--out yourself!!!
Curt
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berserk
Mar 10, 2004, 1:58 AM
Post #139 of 198
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Registered: May 15, 2003
Posts: 59
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Food for thought!
To me, 'style of climbing' is generally more important than 'grade of the climb'. That is, how you ascent the chosen climb.
I personally value a trad lead more than a sport lead, and a sport lead (x1000000) more than a top-rope ascent. The grade of the climb then becomes secondary. Sometimes I find it to be mentally much tougher to ascend a bold, run-out low-grade climb, than what would be the case with a very well protected, albeit much harder climb (in pure grade).
PS! No need to get offended or anything. These are my PERSONAL feelings on the matter, and I do engage in all the above-mentioned styles of climbing. And yes, I too get a kick out of ascending that 'next grade up'.
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benpullin
Mar 10, 2004, 2:34 AM
Post #140 of 198
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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mreardon -- on Monday you posted that you climbed 160 routes up to 11d and then climbed 13d the next day. Where did you do this? I am very curious...
I know of no area that this is possible unless you start climbing at midnight/downclimb all routes/freesolo, etc., as was done by Bachar/Croft at j-tree some time ago.
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bvb
Mar 10, 2004, 4:52 AM
Post #141 of 198
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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In reply to: bob van belle- you are [an] embarrassment to the entire climbing community
shoot man, i'm not about to argue with that. i AM an embarassment to the climbing community. 31 years and counting.
my profile pic? you don't like it? imagine my dismay.
you love me? you think i'm cute? then quit wimping out and give me a hummer.
take a tip from you? no, anal retentive spray delivered behind the shield of a nom de plume ain't my bag. i sign my spray, proudly and with great flourish.
as for dick? my guess is he'd prefer you leave him out of this. if you were the class act you claim to be, or had known dick for going on 30 years, you wouldn't need me to point that out to you.
fight your own battles, aasss. pfffft.
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mreardon
Mar 10, 2004, 4:59 AM
Post #142 of 198
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In reply to: Go ahead--out yourself!!! Curt
My name is Michael Reardon, and yes, once I touched another man's privates. Well, "touched" doesn't quite count because it was wrapped in a rubber, which means technically I'm not gay, or so my scientology guru told me, although, it was actually his private parts.
Whew, thank god I got that off my chest.
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mreardon
Mar 10, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #143 of 198
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In reply to: mreardon -- on Monday you posted that you climbed 160 routes up to 11d and then climbed 13d the next day. Where did you do this? I am very curious... I know of no area that this is possible unless you start climbing at midnight/downclimb all routes/freesolo, etc., as was done by Bachar/Croft at j-tree some time ago.
Did the 160 routes at J-Tree on Friday (the record I believe is 200 which I'm sure will be broken someday in the near future :wink: ). All of them were solos, with several 11's including a couple 11d's. Some of them were downclimbs/repeats. I started in the Monument at Trashcan, did some stuff at Hounds, Banana Cracks, Hemingway, Intersection and a couple minor others, then drove down to Indian Cove to finish up with some of the shorter stuff including "Boortemus" and "Presupposition", and some stuff on Moosedog tower to finish the pump. If I had some coffee in the afternoon instead of taking a nap, I might have gotten a couple more laps in :D
Went to Malibu on Sunday which has routes up to 14a. And I never said I did the 13d, I believe the words were "ass-handed" :D
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mrme
Mar 10, 2004, 5:10 AM
Post #144 of 198
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Registered: Oct 5, 2003
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some of my greatest acomplishments have been on 'easy grades'.
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curt
Mar 10, 2004, 5:14 AM
Post #145 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: Go ahead--out yourself!!! Curt My name is Michael Reardon, and yes, once I touched another man's privates. Well, "touched" doesn't quite count because it was wrapped in a rubber, which means technically I'm not gay, or so my scientology guru told me, although, it was actually his private parts. Whew, thank god I got that off my chest.
Who was the Scientologist involved? Was it Tom Cruise? Because if it was, I could tell women that I have actually shaken the hand that touched the privates of Tom Cruise. Wait--are you right handed? :lol:
Curt
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mreardon
Mar 10, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #146 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Go ahead--out yourself!!! Curt My name is Michael Reardon, and yes, once I touched another man's privates. Well, "touched" doesn't quite count because it was wrapped in a rubber, which means technically I'm not gay, or so my scientology guru told me, although, it was actually his private parts. Whew, thank god I got that off my chest. Who was the Scientologist involved? Was it Tom Cruise? Because if it was, I could tell women that I have actually shaken the hand that touched the privates of Tom Cruise. Wait--are you right handed? :lol: Curt
It was Tom, which is how I found out he was left-handed :P
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fixedpin
Mar 12, 2004, 6:38 PM
Post #147 of 198
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
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Guess I should check this site more often (or perhaps not). Who would have guessed that my little comment (which was absolutely on the mark BTW) would cause such a furor. What a load of spew boys!
Seems Murf captured the essence the best. Unfortunately he stopped short of calling Mr. Shannon and Mr. Van Belle overblown chest beaters (elderly sagging ones no doubt too); which is how they come across. Maybe the testosterone replacement therapy has gone terribly amiss; check your dosages guys.
Only a knave would say that there is no difference between 10c and 11a, no matter if they do claim to be some super hard core climbers from the distant past (or present). But reality may be that memory, fogged with time (and drug and booze) has a way of rendering your past exploits more grand and significant than they deserve. And if you need to provide the hyperbole about it 15 to 20 after the fact, well what does that say?
Sad, sad, sad (didn't someone say you guys are an embarrassment?)
Now let the personal attacks begin. I can't wait to laugh (and watch you guys dig yourself deeper).
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hosh
Mar 12, 2004, 7:31 PM
Post #148 of 198
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I tend to be very competitive... I like to push the limits of my own performance all the time. If I'm not at least one of the best, I'm going to be unsatisfied and it'll drive me to work harder. But I tend to be my own competition (not that there's no one better than me here, there are a lot of better climbers around this area). I try to push myself to climb better than I'm climbing right now. That usually leads me to push grades. But it's not for the sake of the numbers, it's for personal satisfaction. I like being better. Right now, I'm slowly breaking into the 5.12 range. It's taking a lot of work but it's satisfying.
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jt512
Mar 12, 2004, 8:31 PM
Post #149 of 198
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In reply to: Only a knave would say that there is no difference between 10c and 11a, no matter if they do claim to be some super hard core climbers from the distant past (or present).
He didn't say that there was no difference. He said that BVB couldn't perceive the difference, which was my thought, too after seeing Bob climb.
In reply to: Seems Murf captured the essence the best. Unfortunately he stopped short of calling Mr. Shannon and Mr. Van Belle overblown chest beaters (elderly sagging ones no doubt too)...
Well, "Fiona," Curt'll be at Intersection Rock tomorrow morning at 9:00 am. I'm just posting this so you can avoid the embarrassment of meeting him and learning what a complete ass you have been making of yourself in this thread.
-Jay
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chossmonkey
Mar 12, 2004, 8:44 PM
Post #150 of 198
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I want to climb HARD!!!!! I want to go to a crag, see the awesome looking line the inspires me, and be able to do it whether it's 5.2 or 5.freeking hard. To me grades are more of a guide than anything else, I've done 5.9's that felt to me like 5.12 and 5.12's that have felt like 5.9. It's about pushing myself and being able to climb the lines that are cool, not lines that fit my abilities.
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