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pcfcclmbr
Mar 9, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Checked out the latest Climbing mag and the article about those bohunk Huber brothers. We all know thy are mutant machines, BUT I have noticed one thing in regard to many of the pics. They are only carrying draws on their harnesses and the photos are cropped so that the remaining pitch cannot be seen. Are they preplacing gear and pinkpointing or do they just travel light?
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climberjim
Mar 9, 2004, 11:47 PM
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yup they are i noticed the same thing ....but on the cover if u look ther is a nut that is not clipped yet right in front of his face and all he has is draws
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slablizard
Mar 9, 2004, 11:59 PM
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LOL!
I have those pics in front of me, and I was in doubt about starting a topic about it, since we already have a "flame war" developing about Himalaya today.
Those guys are incredible. From what I read they protected the climb and then climbed it free.
They look like 2 Conan the barbarian.
Now that's some extreme climbing, on what was AID before. One thing amazes me, why (after the mythic Lynn Hill) it takes 2 austrians to do it?
There you go.
where's my bulletproof vest?
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iamthewallress
Mar 10, 2004, 12:09 AM
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I'm sure it's like this...sometimes they onsight, sometimes they redpoint, sometimes they pinkpoint, sometimes they don't send in any style.
A lot of those photos are staged/posed and not of the actual ascent.
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climbsomething
Mar 10, 2004, 12:10 AM
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Right on! Hopefully this will develop into a bunch of weak armchair peeps slaying the Hubers for clipping preplaced gear on some of the most difficult, cutting edge climbing done in the history of the sport, and I can post my newest Climbing Gumby Doll piccies.
Dig up that recent thread wailing on Lynn Hill for using pre-placed gear on the Nose and start your engines!
But, FWIW, I think the photo spread in Climbing might show them climbing the route after the historic ascent- "posed" pictures, if you will. Well, more like climbing for the camera.
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thinksinpictures
Mar 10, 2004, 12:22 AM
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They did what they did, and they ought to get the credit that is due to them. Here's how I figure it:
Did they do something that no one has ever done before? Yes.
Is is awesome and inspiring to even imagine what they accomplished? Subjective, I suppose, but I say yes.
Could it theoretically have been done in "better" style? Also yes.
Unless you happen to be the person that does it in "better" style, best step down.
No no no... bow down.
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slablizard
Mar 10, 2004, 12:26 AM
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Bowing...hail Hubers.
You say better style? You mean Onsighting 13a trad while protecting it? Wow.
They look tough those guys, but they're still human ( I guess) :)
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thinksinpictures
Mar 10, 2004, 12:29 AM
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In reply to: You say better style? You mean Onsighting 13a trad while protecting it? Wow.
Hey man, I'm not saying that I'm likely to be the one to do it :shock:
I don't even know for sure if they used preplaced gear. Fankly, I don't care that much, although I suppose my assumption that it "could be done in 'better' style" was dependent on whether or not they did. Either way, they're awesome, and we're pretty much less awesome.
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climbsomething
Mar 10, 2004, 12:30 AM
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In reply to: They look tough those guys, but they're still human ( I guess) :) |
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slablizard
Mar 10, 2004, 12:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: They look tough those guys, but they're still human ( I guess) :) ONLY the Hubers can get away with tossing their heads and letting the wind catch their Fabio hair and tweak their bare nipples while they jut their hips out in those black leather pants. Work the camera, baybee!
LOLOLOLOL!
You craked me up here :lol:
Fabio Hair! HahahhHAHHHAHAAAAAAAA
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ipsofacto
Mar 10, 2004, 12:45 AM
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23456789
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ginerbiner
Mar 10, 2004, 12:48 AM
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I am in love with Thomas Huber!!! Is he single?? I want him for my birthday. Can anyone arrange that by end May? :lol:
Black leather pants??? :roll:
On page 66 of Climbing, above Thomas is that a fixed piece? :? Why the flame about that? They are rock gods, for crying out loud!
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slablizard
Mar 10, 2004, 12:52 AM
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Come on climbers...
Those guys kicked asses Big (wall) time 8) And not one time, but several ( El Corazon..etc)
Despite the Fabio's hair, the bare nipples and the leather pants.
And sure they have pre-placed gear, can't you see they climb with just quickdraws?
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moabbeth
Mar 10, 2004, 1:06 AM
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I had a friend who was a videographer on their speed ascent of Zodiac earlier last summer which was nearly all free climbing (before they officially freed it in October). Thomas led the first half, Alex the second. Watching Alex RUN up that friggin thing barely stopping to place gear, constant hand and foot movement propelling him up the wall with flawless 5.13 free climbing technique, you'll realize SFW if there's anything preplaced!!! It's just the most amazing free climbing I've ever seen. Alex is a stud. I'm sure Thomas is too but he didn't get tape of the lower pitches of Thomas leading so I can only drool and profess of the amazing fluidity of movement that is Alex climbing.
Oh yeah, and his Fabio hair pulled back in a ponytail blowing in the wind as he's frigging FREEING upper pitches of the Zod (wind that knocks around well protected AID climbers, yet he's running up it free), perfectly fitting white shorts and tan shirtless muscle bulging torso only ADDED to the fact that the man is the king stud of all of climbing :lol: :P :P . Those boys did something 99% of all climbers will NEVER have the ability to do. And the fact that they look really smokin' hot doing it is just a bonus.
Simon Carter was also up there getting still shots during it, here's the link:
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/features/zodiac/index.htm
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pcfcclmbr
Mar 10, 2004, 1:07 AM
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Has anyone ever seen these guys climb? Didn't think so! They're as fake as the moon landings!(But that's another thread).
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ricardol
Mar 10, 2004, 1:14 AM
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.. i bought that issue of climbgin also .. just for the photos of zodiac ..
.. anyone else notice that they belayed at the tit of the nipple pitch? --
.. all i can say is that i could not see anything that you even remotely resembled a foot hold or a hand hold on the flying buttress pitch or the nipple pitch .. yet these guys free climbed it ...
.. i wish to some day shake their hand, rather than just shouting greetings to one another from my belay ledge to theirs..
-- ricardo
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slablizard
Mar 10, 2004, 1:22 AM
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".. anyone else notice that they belayed at the tit of the nipple pitch? -- "
ON A KNEEBAR
if you read the caption. They did not used a fixed belay station :shock:
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innominato
Mar 10, 2004, 2:21 AM
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I think it's more accurate to call that style "aid-pointing," in some cases, though the Huber Bros were probably pretty gear-free because it was a photo shoot.
A tactic on these long, hard free things on El Cap is to aid the harder pitches, dogging out a move here and there and sussing the holds, then leave the gear in situ and re-work it from the belay below either on TR or by dogging. Unless you're Yuji Hirayama: Then you just on-sight everything.
Not that I'd know. I can barely get more than two pitches off the deck w/o frazzling. But I've done my homework.
It's just a fancy way to say pink-pointing. I'd say, gear in place or not, leather pants or not, anyone who has free-climbed 5.13 on El Cap is a true badass.
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climbthemiz
Mar 10, 2004, 2:57 AM
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Who cares if they preplaced the gear? I mean, didnt caldwell, sharma, and ramon all pink point their famous lines? The Hubers are awesome, the thought of 13 after 13 after 13 on the captian should put all this to rest.
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epic_ed
Mar 10, 2004, 6:04 AM
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epic_ed moved this thread from Gear Heads to General.
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asandh
Mar 10, 2004, 6:31 AM
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:)
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dirko
Mar 10, 2004, 7:57 AM
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The Hubers DO go back and do things again for photos, just like Dean and Chris and everybody else. At some point in time, some editor or photographer made the decision that less gear on the harness is more aesthetic. These guys (the Hubers) are not exactly known for sewing things up in the first place.
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billcoe_
Mar 11, 2004, 5:52 AM
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Friend of mine was moving like a regular human on NW Face of 1/2 dome year or so ago when Potter and Jose Peryea (I think?) blew by on a record speed ascent of that route and and el cap link up.
They hardly slowed down when they got to them, and just jumped right out on the face, made their own route to get past my friend and just blew by so fast that it was described to me as vertical running. Amazing.
You have to slow down to put pieces in - and they weren't slowing down at all.
PS MoeBeth -thanks for the link, great pics, and there's real pro in them too.
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