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kimgraves
Mar 10, 2004, 3:49 PM
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Hi Gang,
Last summer, when we were in California for vacation, we ran down to Yosemite just for the day to take a look around. No climbing, just gawking! I picked up all the guides including the Yosemite Select. The vast majority of the climbs in the Select guide are 5.10 or better. Is it fair to say you have to be a 5.10 leader to climb in the valley? Or are there other “non-select” climbs in another guide at lower grades?
Thanks for your help.
Kim
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overlord
Mar 10, 2004, 3:57 PM
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though i have never been there...
for a place with such climbing tradition as yosemite, i would suggest that you are at least 5.10 leader if you want to lead some 5.9s. old routes tend to be sandbagged, not to mention "polished" classics.
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socalclimber
Mar 10, 2004, 4:01 PM
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No, you don't have to be a 5.10 leader to climb in Yosemite. There are plenty of good moderate routes. Royal Arches, Nutcracker, After 6, Munginella, Bishops Terrace, etc etc etc.
Robert
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oafy
Mar 10, 2004, 4:03 PM
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No way, you dont have to be a 5.10 leader at all some of the classic are well below that grade. One of the most famous routes called Royal Arches Direct is a 5.7 or 5.6 lead and it 16 pitches of great climbing. Totally go to yosemite, there's alot to climb under 5.10. Anyways hope this helped
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kimgraves
Mar 10, 2004, 4:08 PM
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Which guide book should I look for?
Thanks, Kim
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grabngrip
Mar 10, 2004, 4:15 PM
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I think i'll head out to yosemite soon. Im gonna be moving to Tracy CA soon so i'll be closer than i am now. havnt been out there for 3 years now and my family used to go out there every year
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mandrake
Mar 10, 2004, 4:27 PM
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As others have said, you don't need to lead 5.10 to have a good time in the Valley. It would be good to be at least a 5.8 leader to have some options, and there are some really classic longer 5.9's....
At supertopo.com they sell a guidebook that seems to focus on more moderate routes.
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iamthewallress
Mar 10, 2004, 7:26 PM
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It seems to me that most folks are doing well on the shorter well-known 10's in Yosemite before they are cruising on obscure, old-school, or remote 5.8.
There is plenty to climb if you are not able to climb any 5.10, but chances are you will wait in line for the classic 5.9 or 'easier' routes. Check out the Supertopo.
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dingus
Mar 10, 2004, 7:35 PM
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There are some classic easier routes to do in the Valley. Some of them have already been suggested.
The thing is... there aren't hundreds or even dozens of them. If you google up rec.climbing for Yosemite Moderates you will notice the same list appearing over and over and over. There just aren't a lot of classic easy lines to do there.
So if you have a few days then you'll be fine. If you spend a month there and stay reasonably motivated you'll be leading the initial 5.10 grades anyway.
DMT
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vincent
Mar 11, 2004, 2:47 AM
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you don't need to climb 5.1o , hell u don't even need to climb in the valley. just borrow some dudes rack and take your shirt off and walk around and pick up chics....make sure the rack is in plain view though, preferably with lots of hexes that bang around and make lots of noise. peace
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maculated
Mar 11, 2004, 2:50 AM
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Check out Supertopo.com, Chris Mac writes those books specifically for folks like you looking for a good time on the classic climbs.
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dirko
Mar 11, 2004, 3:10 AM
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For the 5.9 and under leader, I recommend Supertopos. Otherwise, spring for the big book.
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andypro
Mar 11, 2004, 3:18 AM
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The beauty of Yos, with as large as it is, you can pretty much walk up to anyhting and get movin on it. Theres ALOT there that is udner 5.10, but if you want to do long stuff, your choices are mroe limited. If you wanna stay at the 1 or 2 pitch level, you could climb all day long and never see the end of it. The valley has to be the most amazing place I ahve ever been to.
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deleted
Deleted
Mar 11, 2004, 3:23 AM
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you don't need to be a 5.10 leader, but you'll wish you were. that's the beauty of yosemite, you just progress and progress.
for a great moderate, not too challenging route, try Braille Brook
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boltedcrack
Mar 11, 2004, 6:56 AM
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Climbing in Yosemite? Nope. There's none of that there.
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joebuzz
Mar 11, 2004, 9:22 AM
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Don't forget Tuolomne Meadows? Not sure what level you climb, but there are a ton of things to get on. Stately Pleasure Dome, Cathedral Peak, Matthes Crest, and routes on Mt. Conness... All Spectacular in the range of 5.4-5.9. Still lots in the valley too. ChrisMac's new "Yos Valley Free Climbs" is the book to get though.
Have fun!!
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