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campo
Mar 18, 2004, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2004
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Spring break is only a week away, and I am looking at New River or Obed . I can lead through the .10's, and am looking for good .8's-.10c's ,good routes, overhanging with jugs and nice CLEAN falls (Rumney isnt known for their great falls, dirty and ledgy are some of them). Also, we are going to be camping and could use directions (we are coming from NY ((no, not the city damn it!)) to a good camping spot where we will not be hassled (I hear Miguels is the dope spot, do you need reservations os something?)(Also, directions are needed). New River looks good, but doesnt seem to have a great range of moderates. Hit me up with opinions, directions, and beta!
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ryanhurl
Mar 18, 2004, 4:18 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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You'll have to hear camping beta for the Obed from someone else, i haven't been down there in a while. However, for general routes, area, etc I would highly recommend "The Dixie Craggers Atlas" it does a pretty good justice to routes at the Obed. If you have some people that are pulling down some crazy sh*t, I recommend the Steven King's Library area. Don't miss out on crossing over clear creek to go to the Lily Bluffs area (super close approach) and the boulderfield nearby for a nice chill day. if you're still hunting for directions, PM me and I can look them up in my book. It's not a super difficult place to find. Basically you need to get to Wartburg TN.
Was at the Red last week for two days. Miguel's is definitely where it's at if you're a climber. Good place to gather the troops and meet up with other partners. Pay showers too if you're mad nasty, and there are goats in a field next to Miguel's if you want the full Kentucky experience and do some shagg...errr i mean shearing. It's Cheap too, 2 bucks/person/night. And the pizza is good. But beware as the pizza side of the business is closed mon-tues.
I'd recommend the Red, however weather there can be a pain in the a$$. And if you stay at Miguels, try to find a high ground camping spot. Gets a little mucky with rain. Obed is probalby another 4 hours from the Red. I can probably figure some directions to the Miguel's if you need them, PM if it comes to that...
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autisticwombat
Mar 18, 2004, 4:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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Have you been to Obed before?
(i know you need directions, i'm just trying to see if you would recognize landmarks or not)
do you mean outside Wartburg Obed or somewhere else down the river?
I live west of Knoxville (TN)
I go there almost every weekend in the summer and spring
There are several very nice routes up at the place that I go.
I'm not a very experienced climber, the best i've climbed was an 11b, but it was a short route (30ft).
there is an area with a 30ft wall, and a 40ft roof VERY NICE AREA
you can hide under there and climb when it rains, i love it.
there are about two dozen routes on the same trail as this (bolted routes)\
Its kindof out in the middle of nowhere, so if you can get directions to wartburg from wherever you are through mapquest, you'll be in luck b/c i can get you there from wartburg.
talk to ya later---Dave
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yevquest
Mar 18, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: Spring break is only a week away, and I am looking at New River or Obed . I can lead through the .10's, and am looking for good .8's-.10c's ,good routes, overhanging with jugs and nice CLEAN falls (Rumney isnt known for their great falls, dirty and ledgy are some of them). Also, we are going to be camping and could use directions (we are coming from NY ((no, not the city damn it!)) to a good camping spot where we will not be hassled (I hear Miguels is the dope spot, do you need reservations os something?)(Also, directions are needed). New River looks good, but doesnt seem to have a great range of moderates. Hit me up with opinions, directions, and beta!
Ok, I can help. First off, you mention the New and the Obed as possible destinations...then talk about camping at Miguels. Miguels is at the Red, totally different area (but one that you might want to add to your list of destinations).
The New: Rogers is where I usually camp. A search here will yield directions. It's pay, has facilities, and you can walk to maybe 50 routes or so from there.
The Obed: Del's place. It's pay, has a portolet, is a very nice scene, and you can walk to all the areas....although I'm lazy and usually drive a little closer. Both places are fairly cheap (~3-5/night).
I'll add the red in here too.
Miguel's. Fun, sprayerific atmosphere. Great pizza, has facilities, you have to drive to the climbing areas. $3/night now I think.
As far as I know, none of the above areas take reservations.
I've climbed a lot at all 3. Summersville lake, which is a short drive from the New, probably has the best concentration of easier routes. It's also on the shore of a lake so swimming is an option if it's warm. The New itself has some excellent routes in those grades just not huge concentrations. FYI, a topo to summersville is available at drtopo.
The Red is known for its steep jughauls and has some excellent 10's but again, not huge numbers of them. There are several cliffs that have enough to keep you interested....a day at Torrent, a day at Roadside, a day at Military, a day at Phantasia, etc. Also, many of the 11's there have no particularly hard move, just endurance, so bolt-to-bolting them isn't so bad.
The Obed. Probably will be the least crowded of the all 3. Like all the areas above it's really a grouping of several distinct crags. Lily Bluff and South Clear both have good routes in the grades you're looking for. THe 11-'s at the far end of South Clear are good (Paleface, Alchemy, etc) and are all doable if you're willing to hang occasionaly on a bolt. Tierrany is imo the best wall there, long and steep, but lacks a lot of good moderates. The plus side is, you can climb there in the rain.
Hope this helps.
--Brent
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qacwac
Mar 18, 2004, 4:32 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 292
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At the Obed Dale and Marty's is definitely the place to stay. I think is marked on the DrTopo.com guide. The night I spent there I met some of the most interesting people in my life.
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