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timpanogos
Mar 22, 2004, 7:33 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Hey, does anyone in the SLC area know where I can find a mashy before next weekend? The crack entry mashy on Peeler direct is missing it's wire - I'm considering replacing it. Here is a picture to give you an idea of the size: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tPhoto&PhotoID=28218 (Picture may not be approved yet)
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axewielder
Mar 22, 2004, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2003
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WHAT'S A MASHY :?: :?: just wondering...
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overlord
Mar 22, 2004, 8:02 PM
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picture not approved jet. and whats a mashy :?:
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wigglestick
Mar 22, 2004, 8:05 PM
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Yea, well I need a bigger pecker. We all got problems.
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bigwalling
Mar 23, 2004, 12:13 AM
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Those things look to be lead heads. I'm sure you can just use some sort of head instead. Or is this some new wave aid route with tons of tricks?
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 12:59 AM
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Long story - awaiting local aid guri's call - but wanted to be ready to repair this next weekend, while I have the pitch fixed. Tradition FA kind of thing – guide book states: “all clean, please. Starting off the ramp with a dicey bashie and bolt moves, continue up a fine ultra thin crack on marginal nut placements”. It's at a tough entry from the last bolt into a beautiful splitter crack –the bottom of which peters out to nothing. Come to find out – there were originally two bashies and 3 bolts – one has been replaced with a bolt. There is a bashie in the crack with its wires missing. Atg200 looked at some pictures below the bashie and said a pair of equalized #0 wires might go. I was considering putting one more bolt in the ladder to get you into the clean aid portion of the crack – beating out what remains of the bottom seam for such temporary pro does not make sense to me (but hey, I’m new at this, just trying to learn). Andrew suggested a bat hook hole – which makes sense to me. – next guide book update would replace the statement about dicey bashie to “take your bat hook”. I’m just trying to learn a bit about ethics here – as well as be willing to do my share in preserving a local aiding classic. Chad
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bigwalling
Mar 23, 2004, 1:40 AM
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0's are crazy and hard to find. Most people I've talked to just beat on #1s to get them to fit where people have placed 0s. I haven't seen the palcement so I don't know what will work exactly. But this is what I do know, placeing bolts on an already established line is totally wrong. Unless features leave the wall, in which case bathooking makes more sense. People who add bolts deserve to get the chop. If a placement takes a dicey head (f.a.), and the placement slowing get damaged and unuseable with traffic, it should be chiseled just enough to accept a head. Cause if you place a rivet or a bolt the line is now totally different than it was origanlly. I would still rather see someone overly chisel that said head placement than place a bolt. I'm sure most people disagree with me, but a few of you might be on my side with this one. Yesterday, I saw someone adding bolts to a route I had been working on a while ago. It looked as if he was drilling a belay bolt. If it is there when I go to finish it, it will be chopped. Just cause the belay is kinda shitty doesn't mean you have the right to make it safe. Note that this paragraph isn't really directed at you (chad) though.
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socalbolter
Mar 23, 2004, 1:48 AM
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you will probably ruin the placement when you remove the existing piece, but if it's unusable it needs to go. i would also suggest sculpting the placement to take a good head. if it had a big head or bashie before try to end up with a #2 head or so. this would be as bomber as what was there and would probably stay fixed for quite some time. don't add a bolt or rivet, as this would change the mental factor of the pitch considerably. once the photo is posted, i might have a better suggestion, but without seeing the placement it's really hard to know what would be best.
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 2:32 AM
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Bigwalling - please explain exactly what you mean by
In reply to: Unless features leave the wall
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bigwalling
Mar 23, 2004, 2:36 AM
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Like a hook edge or flake. IF it used to be a hook move, then just drill a bathole, at least it's still a hook. Or maybe some massive flake falls off that was used for many placements, then it's pretty much a mini F.A. so drilling a rivet(s) might be the right thing.
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 3:27 AM
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oh, like really LEAVE the wall - ok, makes sense. for educational purposes (my education) I've posted a sequence of high resolution pictures that I believe tells the whole story here - hopefully the photo mods will allow the pictures for the active duration of this thread. Please tell me what you would do - not only for restoration but to get to where that #2 head is, if it was all blown. sequence - moving up: 1. Last Bolt 2. Cheating 3. First 6 inches 4. Second 6 inches 5. Third 6 inches 6. above the bashie BTW I did try and pound a beak into the seveal places below the bashie - with the local experts ok (I talked to him on the phone) All this did was dull my beak - moved to cheater stick after that. Thanks for your patience and info on this - it's been kind of fun to "project" this area - I've never projected before. Probably the easiest thing is to go to my profile and look at the thumb nails of the last 5 pictures I've submitted - once again, these will not be approved right away - so please be patient and hope the mods approve http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tographer=timpanogos mods note - the reason for high res, is the pictures only cover about a 6" area - to break these down into an 800X800 would end up with a bunch of pictures, and would lose the concept. Chad edited to add sequence of order to look at pictures
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skiclimb
Mar 23, 2004, 3:48 AM
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If the head of the mashy is still in then just pecker the mashy...specially if there is a bolt backing you up.
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 3:58 AM
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This is over a bolt that has a clean fall - you could actually zipper almost the first 1/2 of this crack and stay off the deck, so risky placements here are not a risk problem. you could not reach the bashie posistion with your right hand, let alone get your left hand over there - it's a far right traversal move as well as being high - out of reach. - see cheater stick picture - In the first 6 inches picture you will see a blown out scar - I assume this was like a pecker/beak placement to start with? I believe the bashie was orginally placed while on this pin scar - it's useless now (unless sculptured for a head - as suggested here) BTW, when you see the picture of the fixed head - do you think this was sculptured?
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bigwalling
Mar 23, 2004, 4:00 AM
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Make sure that nothing else is possible if you do end up chiseling. Ask locals what they think.
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Yea, I have the ear of a FA in the area, and may end up doing nothing - just an educational project - getting ready (and syched) for el cap - I'll do nothing without his consent .. too much other stuff to try in this area - real nailing/heads next weekend! Waa Hoo - but learning the ethics of dealing with blown fixed pieces is also a good part of the project/learning. Plus - maybe someone will see something and go - heck why didn't you try - this. Chad
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skiclimb
Mar 23, 2004, 4:24 AM
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so you couldn't place a pecker on the top of the mashie head...why not? Works pretty well usually.
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timpanogos
Mar 23, 2004, 4:33 AM
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SkiClimb, I would have sank that beak in that bashie in a heart beat - but you can not reach it with your right hand - let-alone with both hands (i.e. one hand on hammer, one holding beak/pecker to get it started). This is a hard right traversal move. If you saw my thread on Russian Aiders - this is where I switched out for the Ladders. I had my left foot almost out on a horizontal 90 degree angle to the bolt, with right leg straight down - reaching far right with both hands to try and nail the beak
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junnos
Mar 23, 2004, 7:50 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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What about right next to it? It's thin and dicy, but I bet you can get a smaller head in there. If it's traversing (I believe it is?) use a circle head. You mentioned it might be a "Lead Head"? (I just skimed thru the post), so bring up a small butane torch and melt that sucker out of there.
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johnhenry
Mar 24, 2004, 8:44 AM
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Here you go dude: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3668062381&category=50814 john
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fern
Mar 24, 2004, 6:20 PM
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I don't understand. if the deadhead is so far away that you can't reach it to hook a beak in it, then how would you reach that spot to place a head there anyways?
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timpanogos
Mar 24, 2004, 6:47 PM
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Look at the pictures that are now posted - see the "First six inches" You can see a blown out scar here - assume it was a pecker/beak scar - useless now. This is kind of the whole point in this thread - it needs fixed before the #2 head blows or it is going to be real darn hard to get back into this crack without drilling. Chad
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andypro
Mar 24, 2004, 7:49 PM
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In reply to: Here you go dude: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3668062381&category=50814 john Yeah, you could do that. Or go to Fish and get any size you want (those are gonna be way too big) and pay only a buck fifty per. If your gonna drill, instead of a bolt, make a shallow half inch hole for either hooking, or use of an RB if someone has one or wants to. Just a thought.
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bigwalling
Mar 24, 2004, 8:40 PM
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That crack really looks like it will take a head.
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atg200
Mar 24, 2004, 8:51 PM
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i figured if nothing else it would take a couple of #1 heads. it is amazing what those things stick to. practice practice practice on the boulders before you head back up there.
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