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sarcat
Mar 23, 2004, 3:23 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560
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When I look at "spinners" it not the hanger I look for to spin but the bolt itself.
From my Hilit book:
Kwik Bolt II Expansion Anchor 3/8"x3" (Carbon Steel) w/2.5" embedment into 4000 psi Concrete
Ultimate Loads = Tension 5150 lbs, Shear 5500 lbs.
Allowable Work Loads = Tension 1370 lbs, Shear 1470
I know we don't climb on concrete but Hilti does not publish rock ratings that I've ever seen. Can someone else convert these forces to Knewtons?
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asandh
Mar 23, 2004, 4:17 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
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:)
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junnos
Mar 23, 2004, 5:27 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 217
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"Skilled Civil Mechanics". That's too damn funny. Hell, I build engines and could tell you about over-tightening stuff. sheesh!
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mreardon
Mar 23, 2004, 5:39 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
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The best way is to get your partner to lead first. When he/she is runout and completely sketched, yank on the rope as hard as you can. If the bolt holds the fall, it's good.
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madmax
Mar 23, 2004, 6:53 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
Posts: 354
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Yeah well duh!... That is why I always have a sling girthed to my harness, Clip that puppy in, hang out for minute...or two, and if it holds, that bolt is good to go; and having that extra bit of self confidence has helped me send more routes than you could imagine.
Just because a bolt will hold your body weight, doesn't mean it will hold a fall. Your test is not a good indicator whether the bolt is good or bad. Outside of the obvious concerns (the bolt comes out with your fingers, the bolt is an a cracked flake, the bolt is rusted beyond recognition), there really isn't a good way to test it...other then fall on it.
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boulderinguy
Mar 23, 2004, 7:27 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: May 6, 2003
Posts: 42
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well when i check bolts i use the acronym BLAHS
B- Bolt, just see if the bolt looks ok
L- Location, be shure some dumb A%# didnt put a bolt in a chock stone
A- Angle, the bolt shouldnt be faceing down, also the hanger should be flush with the rock
H- Hanger, see if the hanger has any clear sign of fracturs or if it just looks plain mankey.
S- i Forget what the S is sposto be but im shure it is impotrtant it might be surface or something oh well :roll: . . .
i think this is a easy way to be shure that a bolt is safe
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el_trevor
Apr 6, 2004, 1:17 AM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Mar 6, 2004
Posts: 25
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i personnally rappel down onto the route and check every single bolt , and if they suck i replace them , lol if you worry about checking bolts then your not going to be able to climb your best . just uh hope it doesnt break :)
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traddad
Apr 6, 2004, 10:58 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
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A nine pound sledge with a funkness device. If it can take six or seven swings, it's good.
Trust me, I'm a professional.
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