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thomaskeefer
Mar 26, 2004, 3:17 PM
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Anyone done the 5.9var start? How is the gear? I looked at it before climbing after 7 last year but too many people.
I actually came off the route about four years ago from the tree midway up the first pitch. It seems like if you blow the lieback you are going to get hurt pretty bad~ any beta on that? Is this the case?
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dingus
Mar 26, 2004, 3:27 PM
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Nah, it's cazh. Not as good as the middle start, but good anyway.
DMT
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asandh
Mar 26, 2004, 4:34 PM
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:)
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pmonks
Mar 26, 2004, 4:47 PM
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I guess it depends on whether you like climbing on that polished, glassy, worn Valley granite. I wouldn't recommend it for a "5.9" leader - it's quite tenuous (due to the incredibly slick rock) and the gear isn't as obvious as many other routes (it's all there if you think about it, but hanging around sussing out the gear while your feet are furiously bicycling on the snot-slick rock may not be your idea of fun).
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dingus
Mar 26, 2004, 4:52 PM
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In reply to: I guess it depends on whether you like climbing on that polished, glassy, worn Valley granite. I wouldn't recommend it for a "5.9" leader - it's quite tenuous (due to the incredibly slick rock) and the gear isn't as obvious as many other routes (it's all there if you think about it, but hanging around sussing out the gear while your feet are furiously bicycling on the snot-slick rock may not be your idea of fun).
I think its a great 5.9 for the budding 5.9 leader personally. Yeah, it's slick and the hesitant leader will learn a lesson in calf fatigue. That's good, isn't it?
Cheers
DMT
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thomaskeefer
Mar 26, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Thanks...
Yeah the valley Granite.. Coming from joshua tree last weekend, this weekend will be quite a change! Thanks for the beta~ Prob do the 9var!
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iamthewallress
Mar 26, 2004, 7:36 PM
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The crux is the first move, IMO, so if you can do that, you'll be able to do all of it. Bring small aliens. There are definately harder 10's to be found, but then again, there are also harder 5.7's. It's slick.
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piton
Mar 26, 2004, 7:37 PM
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i thought the 5.8 normal start was absoulty the best pitch of the whole climb.
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