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kansasclimber
Mar 26, 2004, 3:26 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2002
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I have cams COVERED from .1 to 4 (camalots and aliens). But I would like to cover the larger piece, but just enough to get by. I was looking at the Big Bro #2 or 3. If I only got the #3, the range is almost equivalent to the 4.5 and the 5 together isnt it?? What your thoughts??
Stephen
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occlimbr
Mar 26, 2004, 3:29 PM
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From what Ive heard big bros are harder to place than cams.
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shakylegs
Mar 26, 2004, 3:35 PM
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It's a pretty specialized piece. Honest, I would wait before I were you.
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jhump
Mar 26, 2004, 3:47 PM
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Do you aspire to climb routes that are unprtectable with your current rack? Say, contiuous granite offwidths/squeezes? Your current rack will not protect that kind of route. Unless you are on this kind of feature, there is little need for big gear. Usually there are smaller placements nearby even if the crack itself is wide and unprotectable. Once I climbed a 100' x 6" wide crack with only tcu and small cam placements in the face and small surrounding cracks.
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headcase
Mar 26, 2004, 4:41 PM
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In reply to: Do you aspire to climb routes that are unprtectable with your current rack? Say, contiuous granite offwidths/squeezes?
I'd pay to watch kansasclimber lead a granite offwidth. I think he'd puke 10 feet up.
(You know I think you're the man, Stephen...)
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asandh
Mar 26, 2004, 4:49 PM
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:)
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skiorclimb
Mar 26, 2004, 5:28 PM
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The only thing better than haveing a big bro, is having a big bro who's a lawyer.
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madmax
Mar 26, 2004, 5:58 PM
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I definitely prefer larger cams to Big Bros. The Big Bros take a lot of experience to place correctly and, as someone else stated, you can't slide them up an ow with you. On the other hand, I know people who know how to efficiently place them and love them. I'd only get some Big Bros if I were doing A LOT of continuous scary henious offwidths and chimneys. If you're not, then just stick with cams and run it out when you have to.
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sspssp
Mar 26, 2004, 11:45 PM
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If you are only going to carry two large pieces in any given size, then, yea, stick to cams.
However, if you are going to carry more than two, the wieght and bulk of cams really start to add up. In this case, I would start to carry Big Bros. Most climbers on a multi-pitch are not going to carry more than two big cams in a given size (maybe not even more than one). Even though you can push a cam in front of you, this may leave you pretty run out if the cam you are pushing twists out as you move it (or if the crack widens up or gets irregular to the point where the cam no longer fits--and if you leave it behind, then you will no longer be able to push up in front of you if the crack narrows back down again). But if the multi-pitch has an extended section of wide crack near your lead limit, you might want to carry more than two.
For learning to lead wide cracks, having a cam to push in front, and one or more Big Bros to leave behind as pro, is, I think, the way to go.
But start with cams, or better yet, top ropes and see what you think.
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apollodorus
Mar 29, 2004, 9:07 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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One place where Big Bros rule over cams is when you need a piece to keep the rope from falling down into the crack. Setting a Big Bro at the right spot will let the rope ride smoothly over it. A big cam can get knocked loose or snag the rope if it gets between a lobe and the rock.
Normally, you don't need more than two big pieces. But, some routes and walls are not normal.
When I did Bermuda Dunes on El Cap last year, I needed two 9" cams (and a #5 Camalot in a thin spot, plus 2 bolts) for a belay, and three more 9" cams to lead the 150 foot pitch up to the Alcove.
Pitch 9 of the Excalibur was similar, except that I also used a 12" cam for one move near the top.
This is P9 of the Excalibur. I am about 1/4 of the way up. Notice the vertical zip line. This whole pitch was too large for #5 Camalots and #6 Tech Friends.
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/p9.jpg
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