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danielb
Apr 23, 2004, 1:05 PM
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Does anyone actually carry a full rack of Hexs or Rockcentrics and a full rack of Friends anymore? I'm trying to cut down the amount of gear I'm carrying for cragging and wondering what to cut down on the Hexs/Rocks or the Friends...
I have Rockcentrics 3-9 each and Friends 00-4(inc half sizes). Both the friends and rocks are racked each piece on its own biner.
Daniel
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jamgray
Apr 23, 2004, 1:23 PM
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I'm trying to cut down on my gear too, but I don't feel I have to make a Genre sort of choice I have droped out some Friends and most of the big Hexes, they make so much noise... but really I carry a bunch(3) of #1 friends and a #Z4,#Z5 Zero then 2) #1 Camelots and 2)#2's and a 3&4 .
I also have a few little Tri cams... ... damn that sounds like a lot .
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swede
Apr 23, 2004, 1:26 PM
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I have got a set of Camalots and a set of Aliens, so my hexes see less use than before (only one set of cams). But a good hex placements is absolutely bomber, so I often regret if I didnīt carry hexes.
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danielb
Apr 23, 2004, 1:30 PM
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Yeah I prefer a Rock/Hex over a friend placement too. Just seems a waste to carry the hexs all on one biner as you really don't need a quickdraw for them just a biner. Maybe if I cut out the small hexs and use cams for the medium stuff and hexs for the bigger stuff...
so maybe friends 00-3 Rocks 7-9? You could rack a couple friends to a biner as they do need a quickdraw to stop walking from rope movment.
Daniel
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geezergecko
Apr 23, 2004, 2:12 PM
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For Rockcentrics on slings, I slide the hex half way down the sling and then fold the sling over and then rack it that way. Less noisy and less dangly. I carry #4 to #9 on 2 biners (3 per biner). Someone else posted this racking tip some time ago.
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danielb
Apr 23, 2004, 2:57 PM
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Good tip, thanks for sharing :)
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dredsovrn
Apr 23, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Depends on the climb. Sometimes a full set of Metolius curve hexes, two sets of Huevos, and roughly a full set of cams or more. Plus slings, biners, and other assorted material. Like cliff bars, walk off shoes, water......
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chronicle
Apr 23, 2004, 3:47 PM
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I leave the big hexes behind most of the time. The small hexes prove to come in handy as passive placement as well, so I don't mind carrying them. I'm still relatively new to trad climbing compared to most people, so I tend to carry more than what I need on a lot of climbs.
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outhere
Apr 23, 2004, 4:20 PM
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this could go on for ever
Its ALL ABOUT THE CLIMB.
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robgordon
Apr 23, 2004, 4:31 PM
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i only use cams.
i think the higher level you climb on gear the less you'll end up using hexes.
once i started leading above about 5.8 on gear, i ditched the hexes completely. cams are just faster, and can be placed in pretty much any placement you could put a hex, as well as a ton of places you couldn't.
the only passive gear i place are stoppers.
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lstockett
Apr 23, 2004, 8:18 PM
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In reply to: Does anyone actually carry a full rack of Hexs or Rockcentrics and a full rack of Friends anymore? I'm trying to cut down the amount of gear I'm carrying for cragging and wondering what to cut down on the Hexs/Rocks or the Friends... I have Rockcentrics 3-9 each and Friends 00-4(inc half sizes). Both the friends and rocks are racked each piece on its own biner. Daniel
I've all but stopped carrying hexes. Occasionally I'll bring along a few of the middle sizes, but only if I've climbed the route before and know there's a placement for them. Nothing beats a bomber hex though.
I mostly rely on cams, nuts, and tricams. They're just more versatile.
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tedc
Apr 23, 2004, 8:19 PM
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I, sort of unconsciously, quit carying hexes when I started climbing harder (for me) routes. I see it kind of like this: If the route is close to your limit you want to place gear quickly and cams are generally quicker than hexes. If the route is easy then the exrta weight of a few cams doesn't really mater and the cams are more versatile. That said, I think I'll dig my Metolius Curved Hexes (nearly new) out of the bottom of the gear bin and take them out for a spin this weekend. I'm sure they could use the exercise. And so could I.
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oafy
Apr 23, 2004, 8:25 PM
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All I carry is one set of Metoulis curved, a set of DMM wallnutz, a set of TCU's and 1-4# metoulis power cams, and its plenty, especially with two sets of different nutz, I dont really use hexes anymore, you can always find a placement with a nut
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drkayak
Apr 23, 2004, 9:38 PM
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In reply to: i only use cams. i think the higher level you climb on gear the less you'll end up using hexes. the only passive gear i place are stoppers.
Same here. I have not carried Hexes for years. None of my partners do either.
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ullr
Apr 23, 2004, 9:41 PM
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Hexes in the soft Sedona sandstone are excellent. I always seem to have three or four fist size hexes on the rack in these her parts. [hillbilly]
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harihari
Apr 27, 2004, 2:58 AM
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I found that at higher grades (ie above 5.8) cams are more versatiule than hexes. BUT...in the alpine, hexes are great. I mean, if you have to bail, what would work better...an $80 cam or a $12 hex?
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jt512
Apr 27, 2004, 4:09 AM
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In reply to: i only use cams. i think the higher level you climb on gear the less you'll end up using hexes.
That's got to explain the incredible poll resuts. Only one respondent in 6 says he doesn't carry hexes. These results must reflect a highly n00biescent sample.
I haven't carried hexes since '92. None of my partners carries hexes either.
-Jay
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joshklingbeil
Apr 27, 2004, 5:08 AM
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It all depends. Sometimes a hex will fit where a cam doesn't. I will carry RPs,Offsets, Hexes, Tricams, Ball nuts, TCUs,or Big Bros if the Route calls for them. But Don't carry them up every climb.
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