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jamgray
Apr 23, 2004, 1:40 PM
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A Camp BLOCCANTE LIFT works great , it doesn't eat the rope the way the viscious toothed Petzl does and it has a relativly easy unloading trigger for when you need to back down. using a sewn runner over your shoulder and cliping into that also helps the rope feed better.
Compact and light rope clamp for use with ropes with a diameter from 8 to 11 mm.
Equipped with an efficient locking system suitable for use in all conditions and does not damage the rope.
Made from 7075 – T6 aluminium alloy.
95 g
.http://www.camp.it/uksetcatalogo.htm
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flamer
Apr 24, 2004, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: flamer, better not mess with him.. he's on RESCUE TEAM, DUDE
NO KINDING!!!!
The guy won't stop PMing me....Wahhh you guys should leave me alone...I'm on a rescue team....wahhh I'm right and everybody else is wrong....WAHHHH....
Dude better man up or even the rescue slugs are going to boot him.
josh
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stymingersfink
Apr 24, 2004, 5:07 PM
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[quote="jimdavis"]Mountains are like women; you'll never get on top of 'em unless you take your time.
quote]
Take your time jim, you still might get there.
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rockitjeff
Apr 24, 2004, 8:06 PM
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“Wahhh you guys should leave me alone.. “
You know Flamer, I’ve taken a liking to this thread ‘cause Jim is interesting. He may be a good guy, just misguided. Blind to the errors of his ways. All that “net” knowledge or “classroom” learnin’ / not enough just plain climbing experience..
Like gri-gri’s and severed ropes .Hmmm.. what bullkrap thread did you read THAT tidbit on, Jim? Gri-gris have been known (rarely) to fail in leader fall situations, but it has not been due to cord being severed in real life. Maybe in a laboratory? ..
Dude.. I’m rescue team...
Yea yea. It’s the uniform with the badges, I know. Sort of makes you feel like a TOOL. And all the groovy rigging you get to play with.
Wierd. You write that you’ve taken scads of classes, .. … spent some coin, I’d bet… And yet you say “I just started leading cause up until recently I haven't had the money for my own gear
Damn, kid. Stop with all the organized jive. Go climbing. Search team has enough qualified people without you tagging along. Ditto those classes you’ve been taking (and TEACHING???? I read that you TEACH intermediate climbing courses????
“taught TR Anchors courses, Intermediate Climbing courses, ect, “
What do you call a person who just struggled up his first 5.5 trad lead? Um…. A beginner????? Teaching intermediate climbing courses???? Wow. That’s whacked.
So when Jim writes “so I know that I can get myself out of pretty much any situation that I'll encounter climbing.” Ha. Yea except maybe a trad lead with a wee bit of a runout. Say a 5.3 where you got to go a ways? What gear or rigging or theory will get you out of that one, Jim?
Oh yea~! The rescue team. As long as you can stay frozen in one place for an hour or two.
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jimdavis
Apr 24, 2004, 10:00 PM
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yeah, i assist on intermediate, intro and tr anchors courses. cause pretty much everyone i climb with trusts my knowledge and setups. but you all obivously know more about me from reading my internet posts, than anyone who's climbed with me knows.
let me bask in your wisdom. :roll:
teach me how to know everything like you guys do...please?
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rockzen
Apr 24, 2004, 10:40 PM
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A link worth reading:
http://www.hse.gov.uk/...df/2001/crr01364.pdf
According to them, camming devices can and have cut ropes. As well, some of them will fail around 4kN. A person just hanging on a rope is about 0.69kN (F(N)=ma; 70kg or 154lbs *9.8m/s^2). Start taking some small falls, and I think the force could easily get up around 2kN-4kN.
I'm not saying you should use one device or another, or what you should or should not do. Just highlighting the risks.
My contribution to the pissing contest...
Rockzen...
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akclimber
Apr 24, 2004, 11:27 PM
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perhaps a pulling of heads out of asses is in order here? everyone is entitled to thier own opinion, if jim or any other person chooses NOT to use a specific device, that is his\thier choice.
"But I'll tell you this- I've rescued WAY more people than you ever will. "
come on now, is there a competition i did not know about?
"I'm not telling people not to question me, I've just been exposed to some information that some people haven't. That's all."
and what if he has, wouldnt that make u guys feel like a bunch of asses...
"I'm not saying you should use one device or another, or what you should or should not do. Just highlighting the risks. "
agreed
now pull really really hard and u folks might become unstuck...
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flamer
Apr 25, 2004, 12:08 AM
Post #58 of 74
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In reply to: A link worth reading: http://www.hse.gov.uk/...df/2001/crr01364.pdf According to them, camming devices can and have cut ropes. As well, some of them will fail around 4kN. A person just hanging on a rope is about 0.69kN (F(N)=ma; 70kg or 154lbs *9.8m/s^2). Start taking some small falls, and I think the force could easily get up around 2kN-4kN. I'm not saying you should use one device or another, or what you should or should not do. Just highlighting the risks. My contribution to the pissing contest... Rockzen...
DUDE!!! That thing is 166 pages long!! Please tell me you didn't read the whole thing!!
I DID NOT so tell me the cam device's that cut these ropes...did they have teeth???
Because it would be the TEETH that cut the rope NOT the cam. There is a difference.
josh
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flamer
Apr 25, 2004, 12:12 AM
Post #59 of 74
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In reply to: perhaps a pulling of heads out of asses is in order here? everyone is entitled to thier own opinion, if jim or any other person chooses NOT to use a specific device, that is his\thier choice. "But I'll tell you this- I've rescued WAY more people than you ever will. " come on now, is there a competition i did not know about? "I'm not telling people not to question me, I've just been exposed to some information that some people haven't. That's all." and what if he has, wouldnt that make u guys feel like a bunch of asses... "I'm not saying you should use one device or another, or what you should or should not do. Just highlighting the risks. " agreed now pull really really hard and u folks might become unstuck...
Pull your heads out of your a$$es!!! LOL!!!
Dude that's the funniest thing I've ever heard!! You come up with that yourself??
And In case you don't realise it, by contributing you- bent right ever and inserted your own head...
josh
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rockitjeff
Apr 25, 2004, 2:43 AM
Post #60 of 74
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Jim writes” let me bask in your wisdom”
Well, you are on one right path by having friends who know their stuff. But my opinion is - it is all about passion for climbing. Are you are climber? Or just some kind of a social "have to do it in a group" recreationalist and it could be rigging or teachiing or whatever.
That’s it. No wisdom beyond it's all about the rock. Either you love it and want not much more than an opportunity to climb your ass off every chance you get and are hooked for life. Or hang it up. Climbing really is not a suitable activity as a mere hobby.
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micahmcguire
Apr 25, 2004, 7:06 PM
Post #61 of 74
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In reply to: In reply to: perhaps a pulling of heads out of asses is in order here? everyone is entitled to thier own opinion, if jim or any other person chooses NOT to use a specific device, that is his\thier choice. "But I'll tell you this- I've rescued WAY more people than you ever will. " come on now, is there a competition i did not know about? "I'm not telling people not to question me, I've just been exposed to some information that some people haven't. That's all." and what if he has, wouldnt that make u guys feel like a bunch of asses... "I'm not saying you should use one device or another, or what you should or should not do. Just highlighting the risks. " agreed now pull really really hard and u folks might become unstuck... Pull your heads out of your a$$es!!! LOL!!! Dude that's the funniest thing I've ever heard!! You come up with that yourself?? And In case you don't realise it, by contributing you- bent right ever and inserted your own head... josh
....most assuredly
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jimdavis
Apr 25, 2004, 11:12 PM
Post #62 of 74
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In reply to: Jim writes” let me bask in your wisdom” Well, you are on one right path by having friends who know their stuff. But my opinion is - it is all about passion for climbing. Are you are climber? Or just some kind of a social "have to do it in a group" recreationalist and it could be rigging or teachiing or whatever. That’s it. No wisdom beyond it's all about the rock. Either you love it and want not much more than an opportunity to climb your ass off every chance you get and are hooked for life. Or hang it up. Climbing really is not a suitable activity as a mere hobby.
No, I'd agree. I like climbing with friends, who doesn't? I get out when i can, if i had a car it'd be a lot more.
I got out today, lead up a 5.8. Went with a good friend of mine who guides for ACS. Took me about 10 mins, maybe a little more. Good fun climb, I had one bad cam that would've blew out, but all and all it was a good day.
Can't wait for the Gunks trip. I'll get some more climbs on my profile for ya'll then. :wink:
Cheers,
Jim
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jakewolf
Apr 26, 2004, 1:26 AM
Post #63 of 74
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I have used a soloist and a grigri- both have performed fine for me. I reccomend the system mention earlier which ties the middle of the rope into the anchor and uses the self belay device on one side and the back up not on the second side. This what i feel best with. The grigri does not feed by itself, but is similar to the effort required in cliiping a piece. I know these are not the original question, but I have used both to tr solo and the both worked fine.
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moondog
Apr 27, 2004, 4:36 PM
Post #64 of 74
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I DID NOT so tell me the cam device's that cut these ropes...did they have teeth??? Because it would be the TEETH that cut the rope NOT the cam. There is a difference.
Some of the devices that cut the rope have no teeth. The Grigri was not tested. I have never heard of an unmodified Grigri cutting a rope. I have heard that a modified Grigri can cut the rope, but have no documentation on this.
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sandstone
Apr 29, 2004, 10:24 PM
Post #65 of 74
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Registered: Apr 21, 2004
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After looking at all the devices out there I ended up buying a Rescuecender for solo TR. I chose it because it has a large toothless cam, and a large curved pocket for the rope/cam interface (i.e. no sharp pinch point, no sheath ripping, very rope friendly). It's designed to slip some under very heavy loads.
It's not designed for solo TR, nor does the manufacturer recommend it for that use. That doesn't bother me a bit.
To me it was obvious that it is a rope friendly device that could handle a shock load if the shit hit the fan. That's exactly what I was looking for. It's worked for me, and if I ever have any doubts about it, they go away when I clip into a backup knot.
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sava6e
May 18, 2004, 5:48 AM
Post #66 of 74
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i just bought a petzel ascender and used it for tr-ing and had luck wiht it, this thread has a lot of clash, it would be nice enough to get some good advice for me to start researching off of and as for the comment about if you dont know how you shouldnt be soloing, well maybe people are trying to do some pre-research or get other peoples opinions and ideas as to how they have had success or failure, words of wisdom " learn from others' mistakes". so maybe we are tryin to learn of definate do-not's. i do have a ? copncerning the ascender though, i read and re-read the directions and they say you can clip into the top or the bottom but if you clip into the bottom then you need a biner at the top as a rope guide, what do other people in here prefer, top or bottom. i have seen others drag them behind them, above was brought up a good point that if you fall your putting more shock onto the rope if it is drug behind you, any advice or any feedback??????? thanx
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brundige
May 18, 2004, 6:00 PM
Post #67 of 74
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In reply to: Why do you think rescue teams won't use gri-gri's?
rescue teams do use gri-gri, if your going to be ignorant dont open your mouth
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
May 18, 2004, 6:45 PM
Post #68 of 74
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In reply to: Can't wait for the Gunks trip. I'll get some more climbs on my profile for ya'll then. :wink: Cheers,Jim
Oh no Jim, please don't come to the Gunks. We have enough dumba$$ noobs who swear they know what they're talking about taking hours to lead 50 ft. of 5.5. If you do, I'll have to TR solo past your sorry a$$.
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johnnord
May 19, 2004, 1:54 AM
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I think some playwright should turn this into an off-Broadway one-act, with Jim and Flamer in the lead roles. :lol:
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jimdavis
May 21, 2004, 7:57 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Why do you think rescue teams won't use gri-gri's? rescue teams do use gri-gri, if your going to be ignorant dont open your mouth
Yeah...your right... you obviouslly know what your talking about. Cause it'd make sence to use a device approved for 9.7-11 mill rope on 12 mill rescue line. :roll:
But assuming that it would function properly on 12mm, which it won't, you then run into the problem that it was designed for 1 climber, not 2+ people. In reading up on this I saw a few reports where a mallet was needed to unlock the cam once weighted with a 200kg (or whatever the number is) load.
But maybe the fact the Petzl doesn't approve it's use on 12 mm, or for rescue belays at all; or the fact that I've talked with 4 SAR teams that all say the same thing and won't use them...doesn't mean a thing.
If I'm wrong... show me.
I don't mind being wrong if you can prove it.
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curt
May 21, 2004, 8:14 AM
Post #71 of 74
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In reply to: And here is what I know. In the first paragraph of petzl's mini traxion page they state it is among other things a tr self belay device. I will never generate enough force to break the thing while tr soloing, and like tedc said, if you can manage to do this you are doing something terribly wrong. Next, my system always has a sufficient backup. And finally the numerous routes I have used this device for it has worked perfectly. I would recommend this device for tr soloing. So what was the question you sent to petzl anyway?
Amen. What else needs to be said? I have also used the mini-traxion device for TR soloing with zero problems. Or.....maybe I'm actually dead and I'm posting from the other side???????? Haha.
BTW, if you really dont like the teeth of the mini-traxion device, use a Gibbs Ascender.
Curt
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curt
May 21, 2004, 8:25 AM
Post #72 of 74
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In reply to: yeah, i assist on intermediate, intro and tr anchors courses. cause pretty much everyone i climb with trusts my knowledge and setups. but you all obivously know more about me from reading my internet posts, than anyone who's climbed with me knows. let me bask in your wisdom. :roll: teach me how to know everything like you guys do...please?
Actually, maybe you should listen to people who have far more experience than you do and who know much more than you do about these things.
Curt
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rockitjeff
Nov 19, 2007, 5:38 AM
Post #73 of 74
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classic thread
just bought a mini-trax to suppliment the Soloist I use.'
like the idea of the mini trax on the highball boulders 'cause i don't need a chest harness.
Soloist requires a chest harness, and I feel like a dweeb wearing it. which has not stopped me from using it 100 + times.
but i think i'll like the mini trax |
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flamer
Nov 19, 2007, 5:03 PM
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Ha!
Thanks for bringing this up again Jeff...I got a hell of a laugh out of it !
josh
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