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musicman
Apr 30, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2004
Posts: 828
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so, i just started climbing and was wondering, are all big wall climbs gear only, are any bolted all the way? please, don't make fun of me for this dumb question, but everyone has to learn sometime
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strider
Apr 30, 2004, 4:18 AM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
Posts: 173
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No. There are no big walls that are clip-up only.
Please, lets just leave it at that. Please. This could get so ugly, so quick...
-n
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lovesclimbing
Apr 30, 2004, 5:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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There are many "sport" big walls. True I don't think there are any class VI sport routes but you can find 20+ pitch routes in diffrent areas. I know I will catch hell for this post, I my self prefer trad over bolts.
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bandycoot
Apr 30, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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The most I've heard of is up to about 25% bolts.
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qpang
Apr 30, 2004, 5:51 AM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 121
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there is a climb near Canmore Called Sisyphus Summits thats pretty "big wall". It's 17 pitches and all completely bolted.....but I too prefer placing the gear myself.
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goodwill
Apr 30, 2004, 9:36 AM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2004
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I think it really depends what you mean by "big wall," but if you just mean a really long climb (say, 2000+ feet or 15+ pitches or something,) then there are definitely some that are bolted all the way. (Whether these would qualify as sport climbs or bolted trad is probably a subjective question.) But here's an interesting tidbit from R&I #131, p. 26:
In reply to: Mount Garfield (4,880 feet) dominates the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River Valley. Infinite Bliss (V 5.10b), now America's longest sport route, ascends the south face of the West Peak of this massive multi-summit enigma, gaining 2,600 vertical feet in 23 pitches.
Note that it is a grade V, so it would probably qualify as a big wall in terms of length and commitment. The article also mentions that many of the easier pitches are runout, one of them a full ropelength of 5.1 with a single bolt.
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