|
blackwell4
Apr 25, 2004, 1:10 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1414 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 53
|
I bruised my left index finger 4 weeks ago on a dyno followed by a sharp lay back.
The bruising was bewteen the hand and the knuckle.
After 10 days it felt ok, but the first time I grabbed a sharp edge with it, the pain was back.
Now it is painfully tender. No longer discolored, but a real pain when climbing.
Anybody expereinced anything like this? and What did you do about it?
I am not going to the doctor, he will just say " quit doing what causing the re injury" Quit climbing? No way.
|
|
|
|
|
blackwell4
Apr 26, 2004, 11:58 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1414 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 53
|
OK, so I took a piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe and measured the distance between my knuckle and palm. That distance was 5/8 of inch and cut a section of the PVC pipe exactlly 5/8 inch. Then I took a round file and beveled the inside edge of the PVC "ring".
The 3/4 inch diameter fits just right around my left index finger.
It was raining this weekend, so I didnt get any climbing but I bouldered a bit and did some pullups and it felt like it displaced the weight from the bruised area.
I will take it out for a true test flight on my favorite 5.12a on Thursday or Saturday, depending on the weather.
Stay tuned.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Apr 27, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1414 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
Sounds like you popped a tendon. Good luck and dont go too hard too fast.
|
|
|
|
|
blackwell4
Apr 30, 2004, 2:30 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1414 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2002
Posts: 53
|
weird homemade gear review
So I got on a familiar 5.11 and wore the PVC ring.
I almost blew it off , since my finger wasnt in constant pain, but wanted to try the ring before I did a fun 5.12.
The ring was designed to spread the force across a larger area and that would help reduce re injury, or so I thought.
After climbing the 5.11 it really hurt. I took the ring off and didnt wear it again.
The ring may have evenly distributed the weight across that portion of the finger it was covering, but I think that it also absorbed much of the weight that the rest of that finger and maybe other parts of the hand would have taken if I wasnt wearing that stupid ring!
So, a device that I thought would reduce the weight on the injury actually focused more weight into the injured area.
What a lame experiment. The finger is sore and stiff this am, looks like rain for the weekend, so maybe I'll rest it a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
