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yay_chris
May 5, 2004, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2004
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Any low-cost additions that could balance out this rack at all? I generally trad single-pitch on limestone.
So here's the rack i've been using:
#3-13 BD stoppers x 2
#.5 tricam
#1 tricam
#2 tricam
#2.5 tricam
#1 camalot
That's pretty much it. I rack it all when I climb. 80% of my placements so far tend to be stoppers. Although, I've noticed though that I go though my active gear quickly (all 5 pieces!) Sometimes I feel sketched on climbs because I appear to have little flexibility for placement options.
Any advice for a poor student? Is my rack (relatively speaking) complete?Do I shell-out for 2 more cams... or continue along the noble path of the tri-cam... or something else?
Thanks in advance.
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caughtinside
May 5, 2004, 5:20 AM
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You don't have any big gear. I'd get cams bigger than your number one, preferably 3.
I was just telling a partner the other day, I recently got the 4 DMM, equivalent to the 3.5 camalot, and I use it all the time.
I suppose you could get hexes for cheaper, but that's a whole other debate!
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yay_chris
May 5, 2004, 5:31 AM
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I was thinking along the same lines.
A #2 and #3 camalot might be my next purchase.
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neph
May 5, 2004, 5:34 AM
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Registered: Aug 29, 2002
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I think your best bet is to get a #10 and a #11 BD Hex (and maybe a #9), and then get another pink and another red tricam. If you didnt have a 2nd set of nuts, I'd say you should get a set (or 1/2 set) of HB offsets as well.
Then start saving up for the #2 and #3 Camalots, then some aliens, then some bigger cams...
Thats about how my rack started out...
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overzealous
May 5, 2004, 1:43 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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I'm a trad noobie..but I love my hexes (full set of slung BD hexes)
I may find them less usefull when I start climbing harder trad, but for the easy stuff I've lead thus far they rock.
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cracklover
May 5, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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In reply to: Any low-cost additions that could balance out this rack at all? I generally trad single-pitch on limestone. So here's the rack i've been using: #3-13 BD stoppers x 2 #.5 tricam #1 tricam #2 tricam #2.5 tricam #1 camalot That's pretty much it. I rack it all when I climb. 80% of my placements so far tend to be stoppers. Although, I've noticed though that I go though my active gear quickly (all 5 pieces!) Sometimes I feel sketched on climbs because I appear to have little flexibility for placement options. Any advice for a poor student? Is my rack (relatively speaking) complete?Do I shell-out for 2 more cams... or continue along the noble path of the tri-cam... or something else? Thanks in advance.
A half set (the large end) of hexes might be your next purchase if hexes have good placement options on the crags where you climb. Hexes practically place themselves in some areas, and are useless at other. Check out if the other trad leaders at your crags are using hexes.
Otherwise, I'd suggest a couple more cams, but consider the #.75 and #2 Camalot (or equivalent), rather than #2 and #3, especially if you can pick up a couple large hexes.
GO
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hoppinbig
May 5, 2004, 2:00 PM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Tradding in ontario limestone RARELY requires anything bigger than a #2 camelot. lots of nuts and tricams (as you already have) is the most often used gear. I love RC - some poor student asks for recommendations of LOW COST additions to his rack and people recommend Camelots and Aliens :shock: ?
I have Aliens and Camelots on my rack but thats cause I work and can afford them... hell you can get 2 lower-cost cams for the price of one Camelot....
If you are going to get cams get smaller pieces, in the finger sizes - those get used alot in limestone.
Let me know where you climb in Ontario, I'll tell you exactly what you need and don't need.
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robban
May 5, 2004, 2:31 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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Like other people here, I'd recommend some hexes if you're on a tight budget.
If you want to go for some cams anyway (you'll want those sooner or later ) have a look at the larger Rock Empire cams.
I have a full set of the flex version and they are great, especially when you consider that they go for something like half the price of Camalots! I don't know where you can get those where you live, though.
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alpinestar
May 5, 2004, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 10, 2004
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Yeah Rockempire cams are really cheap, and have only heard good things about them. I just bought some flex type a 3/4, 1 and a 3. Cant wait to try them out.
You can by them directly from rockempire : http://www.rockempire.com
The flex type seems nicer then the robot, the robot is one finger action, where the flex is two.
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lstockett
May 5, 2004, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2003
Posts: 208
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Doubling up on your most frequently used tricams is probably a good idea. You might also look at old-fashioned Forged Friends made by Wild Country. You can get them for about $30 - $35 each. They're also very light and extremely durable. Spend a couple of extra bucks for some high-strength cord and tie them off "gunks-style" so you can use them in horizontals. As you probably know, these were the first cams invented. Lots of people still swear by them.
Of course, more Camalots would be ideal. It depends on where you climb, but most people carry at least the #2, #.75, and #3 camalots, along with the yellow and green aliens. I understand the poor college student thing though.
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andypro
May 5, 2004, 4:01 PM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Aug 23, 2003
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I've come across exactly two placements so far that actually NEEDED something bigger than #2 camalot/#3 friend on the escarpment. If tha'ts where you climb, go for the med. small to small stuff...say #1 camalot equivalent and under. I find the most prolific cam placements I've come across are the #1 friend to #6 metolius range. Nuts and tricams work very well in 90% of circumstances. Get the larger hexes if you need bigger placements. Usually you can just move a foot in any direction and find a placement for a smaller piece if you dont have one big enough.
If you dont climb ont he escarpment, then disregard what I just said :wink:
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joshklingbeil
May 5, 2004, 4:25 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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I dont like the width of the Rock Empires. They are more likely to walk. I would rather have forged friends By Wild Country.
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alpinerockfiend
May 5, 2004, 5:18 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 598
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In reply to: That's pretty much it. I rack it all when I climb. 80% of my placements so far tend to be stoppers. Although, I've noticed though that I go though my active gear quickly (all 5 pieces!) Sometimes I feel sketched on climbs because I appear to have little flexibility for placement options. Any advice for a poor student? Is my rack (relatively speaking) complete?Do I shell-out for 2 more cams... or continue along the noble path of the tri-cam... or something else? |
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dredsovrn
May 5, 2004, 5:30 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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In reply to: Any low-cost additions that could balance out this rack at all? I generally trad single-pitch on limestone. So here's the rack i've been using: #3-13 BD stoppers x 2 #.5 tricam #1 tricam #2 tricam #2.5 tricam #1 camalot That's pretty much it. I rack it all when I climb. 80% of my placements so far tend to be stoppers. Although, I've noticed though that I go though my active gear quickly (all 5 pieces!) Sometimes I feel sketched on climbs because I appear to have little flexibility for placement options. Any advice for a poor student? Is my rack (relatively speaking) complete?Do I shell-out for 2 more cams... or continue along the noble path of the tri-cam... or something else? Thanks in advance.
I guess most of your placements would be stoppers since that's what you have. It's a pretty long list of what you could add, but for cost and function, you could add a set of Metolius Curved Hexes. They are very versitile both for passive and active placements. For cheap cams, you can sometimes find deals on Clog and HB at places like www.sportextreme.com. Robot Cams are good options too for the price. If you have the budget, go all Aliens, Metolius, and Camalot. I would get the hexes in either case. I use them all the time even though I have plenty of cams.
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