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rick_james
May 6, 2004, 4:53 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2004
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what size of haul line are you using for 1:1 hauling.
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skywalker
May 6, 2004, 5:57 AM
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Well I'm no expert but I use a 10.5mm. I've have used a 9mm and it didn't snap. Both can handle the forces with ease but I find that I tend to pull up on the rope with my free hand while kicking my leg, especially when the hauling is difficult, so I like the 10.5mm. I can get a good grip with my free hand while the 9mm is a bit thin. The other consideration is the wind; the 10.5 is less likely to whip around than the 9mm. My opinion is go 10.5ish if you are doing long routes with heavy bags, 9mm if you're doin grade V's. The longer the route and the heavier the bags, the skinnier the line feels...
Cheers!
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mingleefu
May 6, 2004, 6:33 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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static or dynamic?
(that is my own question..) I've read both, which do you (all) use?
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apollodorus
May 6, 2004, 6:51 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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On a typical big wall in America, it's the 7/16" (11mm) static line. Why? It's not just a haul line. It can also fix line a pitch when you get a coupla pitches past the bivy before dark.
The extra weight of a full-size 7/16" line is nothing. The SPOOK factor of jugging a tiny line on a big wall is EVERYTHING.
Hey! That jug is bad enough on 7/16"/11mm.
When some wizurds offer you up a scary jug on 3/8" rope to you, you start to think about whether you want them as your partners . . . ..
Then again, on trad routes, even a 6mm or 7mm is OK for pulling the bag up.
So, what sort of route are you doing?
More serious line = fatter rope.
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brianinslc
May 6, 2004, 1:13 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: what size of haul line are you using for 1:1 hauling.
Ie, hand over hand hauling? Without a pulley? I typically use a 6mm Espirit line (their personal alpine escape rope, a neat cord especially for its size).
If I have to haul thru a pulley, about the smallest I'll go is typically a 3/8" static line. But, I sometimes (often actually) will just use an old semi retired lead climbing rope as I like having another dynamic rope for back up of the lead line anyhoo.
Brian in SLC
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epic_ed
May 6, 2004, 6:23 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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For grade IV stuff where the haul isn't too heavy and I want to lighten the load as much as possible, I use a 9mm static cord. Anything where I'll be on the wall a few days, I use a 10mm static. I don't mind fixing/rapping on the 9mm on occasion, but it's not my favorite part of the day. I know technically the rope strength of the 9mm is fine, but ropes tend to look thinner the higher you get off the deck. By the time I'm 500+ or so, that 9mm looks like a shoe string.
I'll never again haul on a dynamic rope. I would bring a smaller diameter dynamic cord as my tag line if I wasn't hauling, but even hand over hand stuff with a dynamic rope sucks and is way too inefficient for my taste.
Ed
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