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twoliter
May 14, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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In my recent assent of the Zodiac (April 9 -11) we were leading in blocks, short fixing, and the leader doing some self belay untill the follower caught up and put the leader on again. Even though some of the pitches were quite long the system worked well. I would fix the lead rope and haul enough to get the tail of the haul line back to my partner for more gear. The only problem was I would have to hual the pig alot more then I wanted to be able to get enough free haul line to be able to get gear from the follower. After doing the route I felt that a third rope (smal diam) would have saved a bit of time on the route.
Any comments on the third line (yes, no, diam, length...) :?:
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epic_ed
May 14, 2004, 10:31 PM
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It's not unusual to use a small diameter, short zip line for that. Chad and I did it on Prodigal. I wasn't a big fan of it because it added another chord into the mix, but it ended working reasonably well and would have been pretty smooth if we had a couple of more days climbing together to dial it in. I think we used a 5mm cord as the zip line.
BTW -- how was Zodiac? Feel free to compose a TR. I'm heading up there soon.
Ed
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asandh
May 14, 2004, 11:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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twoliter
May 17, 2004, 6:41 PM
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Short fixing worked great, fact is by the time I ran out of rope and gear my partner was done hauling and ready to put me on. That saved 40' to 60' feet per pitch. I am no speed climber but I hate to be hanging around any longer then I need to. As for my partner, his extra work included sending me up gear he had cleaned. Usually he would not send me up gear untill he got to the belay, on some longer pitches I would have him send me up gear earlier but this could have been eliminated by taking more draws and biners.
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asandh
May 17, 2004, 6:49 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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So the second did the hauling. That helps clarify what you are saying.
We always have the leader haul, and by the time the pig is hauled and the line restacked, the second has made it to the belay. Then whoever's turn it is next on lead, heads out.
Guess your way works too... congratulations on your ascent.
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