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galf
May 7, 2004, 10:47 PM
Post #26 of 29
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 230
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Hey,
I've tried today to use a 5/16 by 1 inch grade 5 machine bolt as a rivet in a 1/4 hole.
I prepped it by flattening the two first threads.
I went in fine but after 6 threads inserted (compared with one next to it), the bolt started warping and wouldn't go in any further. :cry:
Is this normal?
I guess so. I'll try the 3/4 inch long soon.
I have yet to try the Powers drive 1/4 x 1-1/2... They don't offer any drive bolt in Canada this year only crappy spikes....
Maybe it's because we didn't go have fun with you guys in Iraqi jails. :wink:
I'll get some anyways.
What do you guys think of a short 1/4*1inch powerbolt (aka rawl 5 piece) as a rivet
finally, If there's a tech guru around, what's the shear load of a 1/4 star nail-in ?(btw I do not plan on using those!)
Cheers,
Guillaume
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evilshaggy
May 8, 2004, 10:04 PM
Post #27 of 29
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 10
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poor galf, you sound desperate to get past that blank section. What kind of rock? If its's hard ie granite, quartzite, andisite ect you can get by by drilling a 1/4 inch hole 3/8 inch deep and slam a 5/16 machine bolt that is 3/4 inch long in. this will hold most body weights but probably not a fall. use one inch hole and an inch and a quarterbolt and it may hold fall.
Now bat hook holes. 3/8 inch hole 1/4 inch deep use a tallon, dril at a 45 degree angle. unless your on shitty rock then drill 3/8 inch hole at a 45 degree angle about an inch.. take a cliff hanger adn cut it off just past the curve so that it is more straight. now pound that sucker to the hilt. Bomber.
evilshaggy
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pedro_burrito
May 30, 2004, 5:17 AM
Post #28 of 29
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Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 142
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I'm not an aid climber and I'm not likely to ever hang off of a bolt but I like mechanical subjects so I have some questions:
What is a bathook?
What is a talon?
How is the talon attached to the wall?
Is there a book that you would recommend that describes aid gear?
My favorite photos here are the big wall photos and talons and bathooks are mentioned and I have no idea what they are.
Thank you for your patience with a n00b. This is not a troll. ;-}
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coomer
May 30, 2004, 1:26 PM
Post #29 of 29
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Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 20
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In reply to: That's great info but what's wrong with bathook holes?
Because bathooks or any drilled hook placement is a contrived piece of nonsense. A hole is a hole is a hole- "if you drill it- fill it"
Beyond the ethical debate, the fact is that bathooks over time deteriorate (in softer rock like diorite rather quickly) and new holes will be drilled. They are damn hard to see and it's not uncommon to find several holes near one another on routes that use bathooks. Drilled hooks are bogus... hook that natural edge or put in a good rivet (preferably 1/4" button head) with an eye towards future ascents.
Cheers
e
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