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Demands of the big stone
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timpanogos


May 30, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Demands of the big stone
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Special thanks to the folks here at the RC aid forum! A huge personal achievement as well as a new found appreciation/respect for all of you that have actually climbed this massive wall.

You go there ready to give 100 percent physical and mental – it demands 200 percent from you – physical, mental, spiritual – what a journey.


Chad


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=33214


valygrl


Jun 1, 2004, 3:29 PM
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Chad, congratulations, what a huge accomplishment! Also a fantastic photo.

:)
Anna


Partner tim


Jun 1, 2004, 4:10 PM
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way to go Chad! Big props for pulling it out after your partner got injured on WSR. Congratulations on the Zodiac.


lambone


Jun 1, 2004, 4:18 PM
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yeah man, making up the Captain on your first go is huge, and rare. Nice job!

now...I hear yall spent 8 day up there...what's up with that? Just taken'er easy, harder than you expected, stormy, did ya have enough supplies?

Did ya get her clean?


gunked


Jun 2, 2004, 3:56 AM
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Chad,

CONGRATULATIONS!!! I'm sorry to hear about Pete. I'm psyched that you made it up the Zodiac.

It was great hangin' with ya and I can't wait to hear some of your ascent stories.

-Jason


Partner coylec


Jun 7, 2004, 2:26 AM
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In reply to:
yeah man, making up the Captain on your first go is huge, and rare. Nice job!

now...I hear yall spent 8 day up there...what's up with that? Just taken'er easy, harder than you expected, stormy, did ya have enough supplies?

Did ya get her clean?

Eights days, that is correct. Had MORE than enough supplies :-)

coylec


Partner holdplease2


Jun 7, 2004, 3:19 AM
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Congrats, Chad, especially nice since you weren't even planning/prepping for that wall.

BTW...what the heck did you do to your finger? When did it happen on the route? Hopefully late in the game...

-Kate.


epic_ed


Jun 8, 2004, 6:52 PM
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Chad & Chris!!! HUGE props for sending Zodiac!!! I would love to hear more details about the trials and tribulations of your ascent. Post up! What's with the finger, anyway? :?

Ed


timpanogos


Jun 9, 2004, 9:13 AM
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Dang,

I told work to screw it – 3 weeks ago – schedules be damned – I’m going to the valley – been paying the price since I got home. Anyway – getting caught back up with work – and it took about a week for me to – seem normal again.

Heck I kept looking for my adjustable before getting out of bed for 3 days after.

After first getting home, I figured, dang – that’s enough for a year- here I am a week later – thinking about planning another adventure – dumb guy, have you already forgotten??? Just look at those peeling finger tips and your fumbling left hand trying to type!

I did post a quick accident report on the finger when I first got back – you can see that here:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...iewtopic.php?t=62024

It was actually part of the 2nd knuckle on my middle finger that snapped (between first and second knuckle). I heard it pop and knew immediately that it was broken. After a weeks worth of prescription strength motrin The swelling has gone way down (back of my hand was way swollen) and it turns out my index finger is actually more swollen and sore than the broken finger – second knuckle on index finger is still huge - darn soft tissue damage is worse than broken bones.

I can hardly use my left hand – it’s going to be a few weeks before I can climb again – and I’m already getting the bug. Want to do some trad as well as plan another wall.

Lambone – yea 8 days – or so – heck we lost track – but were prepared, had plenty of food/water – and were not in any hurry – next time I do want to work on weight/speed – not to be a super speed climber – but to work on faster, lighter.

You really do need to organize at night – try and fix next pitch at night, lead in blocks – be light enough for a single person to haul ……….

We did none of these.

Was it harder than I expected? Yes/no. It was said “if you can do the first pitch – you can do any of them” I was confident and did the first pitch with no problems – it was a blast. – There were a few pitches after this that had my eyes WIDE OPEN – and I found them much scarier than the first pitch (I did about a 30’ fall from the top of the black tower pitch – that shook me for a bit).

But I also found the true feeling of the gravity effect of lower sections (dang lets bail) and the point of no return (i.e. top of pitch 7 – after fall – it’s too darn far to bail – got to go up). After you hit t his – not quite top out fever – but – total up commitment realization – bailing is not a choice – the climbing “seemed” to be easier – do or die I suppose.

Maybe it’s just finally getting use to the body weight after bodyweight moves, day in and day out, and finding relief in clipping mank to almost match the feeling of clipping a bolt. I think it was like between belay 8 and 9 – cam hook, cam hook, cam hook, #3 brassie with screamer – cam hook, cam hook, cam hook wow a - #3 head, bummer the wires broken, but someone was kind enough to tie a knot in the broken wires – clip it like a bolt and sigh of relief! (yea it bounce tested great).

Then you get passed – and get this syndrome – dang that guy just used that sun baked – ratty supertape on that rusty pecker – not sure I dare bounce test it – don’t dare break it the sling– worked for him – it’ll work for me (Russ’s voice fading in the background of my mind – don’t be late)!

Yes I nailed on two pitches - one pecker and 2 #3 so's - both of which were more of a hand placement type of deal - with a smack for good measure.

Way intense stuff – car to car – bears, rattle snakes, sun, wind, approach hauling, broken leg, east ledges “easy way off (yea right)”, interesting nights in camp4/5 – way differing, and interesting people from all places/interests, sometimes about two notches above my risk threshold, 2 groups bailing before us, one after (btw, the ones after – guy popped up on the first – semi-inverted cam hook move as you move into the fully inverted cam hook on the roof of first pitch – he got on it, working on next move and several seconds later – pop – guess who? Yep – Pika – he zippered a few – did about a 30 footer and went home – I chuckled).

Well this is turning into a trip report – and after my last experience I want to downplay internet flurry about my adventures – too much circus – too much noise – too much energy loss. I just want to get out, experience it, have a good time – and that’s what we did.

Chris is the best – highly recommended partner!

I have gained a lot of respect for the likes of Lambone and others here that I know have done el-cap routes. Until you have been up there – and completed the whole experience (special camp5 cookies to exhausted final hike out at dawn in a pouring rain) – you just do not fully understand.

Still a gumby – still much to learn/experience – but somewhat more educated – especially in the more mental aspects of a grade 6 climb – covering 8 days on the wall - great experience.

I’m thinking the trip, next fall – anyone interested? I also want a repeat of Prodigal, Moon Light, and/or Spaceshot – I’m interested in dropping back to c1/c2 before next elcap route and working on speed/weight/system issues.


what a geek!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=33806

Chad


lambone


Jun 9, 2004, 11:35 PM
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In reply to:
I did about a 30’ fall from the top of the black tower pitch – that shook me for a bit.

YEAH I BET!!!!

Nice job Chad, and chris...way to go. Way to stick it out and not bail even though those thoughts were in your head...that's what it takes, you got it. Especially when all those other parties were bailing left and right around you, must have felt great to be the ones to keep going.

I wasn't trying to diss you on the 8 days thing. Hell it took me 7 1/2 to solo it. I was really just curious if you got held up by a storm or something weird.

If you wanna climb faster, you can, you just gotta scrutinize all your gear alot closer, and treat it more like an alpine route where speed matters.

But hanging out is fun to...I'd much rather spend an extra night up there then scrounge for a bivi spot on the Valley floor and fight traffic.

I'm planning on the month of October, hope we can link up. :)


iamthewallress


Jun 10, 2004, 12:14 AM
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But hanging out is fun to...I'd much rather spend an extra night up there then scrounge for a bivi spot on the Valley floor and fight traffic.

A related story...

A family happed to be on our same band and we got to hear them have a 45 minute parking epic (2 cars for a couple and a kid?), discuss who was bringing the stroller, whether or not hubby had the diet coke and frappucino, why was she not coming to hotel, why could she not find parking, did she have the snacks, etc., etc. It renewed my gratitude for the time that I got to spend up there...and for the relative simplicity of my life in general.

It's funny to think of El Cap as being a simpler vacation than the Lodge, but it many ways, it is.


iamthewallress


Jun 10, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Actually, you look like you are having the time of your life.

I'm glad for you that you had such a meaningful experience.


epic_ed


Jun 10, 2004, 1:19 AM
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Thanks for the update, Chad! Good to hear you're doing well and healing up fast. Dude, you've dropped some lbs. :wink:

It would be great to see a few more pictures. The one from the top has been my wallpaper since you posted it.

Ed


katydid


Jun 10, 2004, 3:22 PM
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It's funny to think of El Cap as being a simpler vacation than the Lodge, but it many ways, it is.

That's because you can't bring your toddler with you on a wall. :P

I lurk here a lot, as I am a rank amateur when it comes to aiding and don't really have anything worthwhile to post, but I just wanted to add a thanks to Chad for the great photos and a congrats to both him and Chris. Hope your finger feels better soon, Chad.

Maybe in a year or so I'll have some photos to add to the collection. ;)

k.


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