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far_east_climber
May 31, 2004, 9:33 AM
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I know this topic has been 'beaten to death' and I know there are previous posts to get my info. but if someone could give me some advice I'd appreciate it. I'm in the process of building my rack - at the moment I have a set of 10 nuts (WC) and the mid-large sizes of BD hexes. The only cams I have are two old WC forged friends. I want to strengthen the rack, but at the moment cannot afford to buy a set of cams. I want to make the rack more versitile. Anybody have any ideas on what to add in? Would another set of nuts (maybe BD) be worth it or tri cams?
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overlord
May 31, 2004, 9:44 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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then dont buy the whole set of nuts, but just some sizes. look at your rack and consider where youre weak and buy cams of sizes that will reduce the weakness.
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tyify
May 31, 2004, 1:51 PM
Post #3 of 22
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
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I climb pretty hard on a full passive rack. I would double up on your most used pieces and possibly invest in at least the pink tricam.
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one900johnnyk
Jun 1, 2004, 12:09 AM
Post #4 of 22
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 2381
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you need cams. they're a must from the start. get a job. from one poor man to another.. a blow job is still a job, man. we all do things we're not proud of.. but at least this is in the name of cams
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dlintz
Jun 1, 2004, 1:38 AM
Post #5 of 22
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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Get some angles, lost arrows, knifeblades, and pins. They're plenty cheap. No, just kidding. Go for the 4 or 5 smallest tricams and double up on the nuts, maybe a different brand.
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dutyje
Jun 1, 2004, 2:41 AM
Post #6 of 22
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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OK. I don't lead trad. I'm also an idiot. However, I've been staring at these forums for months now, and think I can at least forecast the rest of this thread for you. Besides, it seems to be the norm that every uninformed schmuck visiting rc.com has to throw in their two cents to the latest "building my rack" thread. That said, all of the following is off the top of my head. People will recommend you get a couple "pink" and a couple "brown" tricams. Then somebody will say you could also throw in some bigger hexes, and there will be a debate about BD Hexcentrics vs. Metolius Curve Hexes. This will be immediately followed by hex-haters referring to them as "cow bells". Others will insist that your rack is never really versatile enough until you've rounded it out with some of the common sizes of cams. They recommend you save your pennies and know that one quality cam can be worth 10 times its weight in nuts. I have no idea what the common sizes are, but people will say to base it off the rock you're climbing. Next, they'll all start talking about Camalots and Friends and expansion range vs. weight, etc. Some are gonna say you can never have enough nuts, so buy extras of your commonly used sizes, and stick to the same brand so you know the pieces well. Others will then say that you should get different brands and learn the intricacies of each. So there you have it, buy one or two (each) of the pink and brown tri-cams, throw in a couple mid-sized hexes and extras of your 3-4 most commonly placed nuts. If you've got cash to spare, drop it in your piggy bank and wait for the day you can afford to invest in a few cams. ** DISCLAIMER: I own none of the pieces mentioned above, and I also have no idea how to use them. The above message was written purely for the amusement of the traddies that have seen this thread a million times before. You should seek the advice of experienced leaders working the same rock that you intend to climb.
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dlintz
Jun 1, 2004, 2:58 AM
Post #7 of 22
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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In reply to: OK. I don't lead trad. I'm also an idiot. However, I've been staring at these forums for months now, and think I can at least forecast the rest of this thread for you. Besides, it seems to be the norm that every uninformed schmuck visiting rc.com has to throw in their two cents to the latest "building my rack" thread. That said, all of the following is off the top of my head. People will recommend you get a couple "pink" and a couple "brown" tricams. Then somebody will say you could also throw in some bigger hexes, and there will be a debate about BD Hexcentrics vs. Metolius Curve Hexes. This will be immediately followed by hex-haters referring to them as "cow bells". Others will insist that your rack is never really versatile enough until you've rounded it out with some of the common sizes of cams. They recommend you save your pennies and know that one quality cam can be worth 10 times its weight in nuts. I have no idea what the common sizes are, but people will say to base it off the rock you're climbing. Next, they'll all start talking about Camalots and Friends and expansion range vs. weight, etc. Some are gonna say you can never have enough nuts, so buy extras of your commonly used sizes, and stick to the same brand so you know the pieces well. Others will then say that you should get different brands and learn the intricacies of each. So there you have it, buy one or two (each) of the pink and brown tri-cams, throw in a couple mid-sized hexes and extras of your 3-4 most commonly placed nuts. If you've got cash to spare, drop it in your piggy bank and wait for the day you can afford to invest in a few cams. ** DISCLAIMER: I own none of the pieces mentioned above, and I also have no idea how to use them. The above message was written purely for the amusement of the traddies that have seen this thread a million times before. You should seek the advice of experienced leaders working the same rock that you intend to climb. So true!! And to some degree this is the same process with most threads on this site. 8^)
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euroford
Jun 1, 2004, 3:15 AM
Post #8 of 22
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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well what else are we going to talk about??
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rickvena
Jun 1, 2004, 3:28 AM
Post #9 of 22
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Registered: Feb 22, 2004
Posts: 34
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can't beat the old school low tech low budget habit of picking up a few different size rocks on the approach and then using em as chocks. fun fun fun
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spivey
Jun 1, 2004, 3:57 AM
Post #10 of 22
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 82
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full tricams, a couple of nuts
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tahoe_rock_master
Jun 1, 2004, 4:14 AM
Post #11 of 22
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 172
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In reply to: OK. I don't lead trad. I'm also an idiot. However, I've been staring at these forums for months now, and think I can at least forecast the rest of this thread for you. Besides, it seems to be the norm that every uninformed schmuck visiting rc.com has to throw in their two cents to the latest "building my rack" thread. That said, all of the following is off the top of my head. People will recommend you get a couple "pink" and a couple "brown" tricams. Then somebody will say you could also throw in some bigger hexes, and there will be a debate about BD Hexcentrics vs. Metolius Curve Hexes. This will be immediately followed by hex-haters referring to them as "cow bells". Others will insist that your rack is never really versatile enough until you've rounded it out with some of the common sizes of cams. They recommend you save your pennies and know that one quality cam can be worth 10 times its weight in nuts. I have no idea what the common sizes are, but people will say to base it off the rock you're climbing. Next, they'll all start talking about Camalots and Friends and expansion range vs. weight, etc. Some are gonna say you can never have enough nuts, so buy extras of your commonly used sizes, and stick to the same brand so you know the pieces well. Others will then say that you should get different brands and learn the intricacies of each. So there you have it, buy one or two (each) of the pink and brown tri-cams, throw in a couple mid-sized hexes and extras of your 3-4 most commonly placed nuts. If you've got cash to spare, drop it in your piggy bank and wait for the day you can afford to invest in a few cams. ** DISCLAIMER: I own none of the pieces mentioned above, and I also have no idea how to use them. The above message was written purely for the amusement of the traddies that have seen this thread a million times before. You should seek the advice of experienced leaders working the same rock that you intend to climb. You hit the nail on the head!! This is exactly what they will say. Nice post. :D :D Matt
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vincent
Jun 1, 2004, 4:29 AM
Post #12 of 22
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Registered: Oct 1, 2003
Posts: 178
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invest in a drill and a few dozen drill bits. when it gets sketchy fire in a 3/8 longlife and clip away. some wackos here might get on your case about bolting but don't listen to em'. u pay taxes right , they're your rocks too.
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coldclimb
Jun 1, 2004, 4:50 AM
Post #13 of 22
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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You should get some pink and brown tricams for sure ...........
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jimdavis
Jun 2, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #14 of 22
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
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Get a credit card! That's what I did, I now have a set of Metolius 1-7. Yay for debt! Atleast I can lead of my own gear now though. Tricams are nice, but I know I can't plug them like you can a Cam though. I know I'm tri-cam impaired, but slcd's are still needed if you ask me. I was gonna double on on nuts too, but I find myself using cams so much more now. Find a buddy with a nice rack (pun VERY intended), or beg borrow and steal. It's the essence of climbing; consider this your first step in our 12 step program to becoming a Dirtball Climber. Cheers, and climb safe, Jim
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climbsomething
Jun 2, 2004, 3:51 AM
Post #15 of 22
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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In reply to: consider this your first step in our 12 step program to becoming a Dirtball Climber. DirtBALL? :? I don't know what's available in Hong Kong, but inexpensive cams ($27-$42) do exist. It's not all about bling-bling Black Diamond and Aliens. *walks away muttering, "dirtball? wtf?"* ;)
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papounet
Jun 2, 2004, 11:05 AM
Post #16 of 22
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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In reply to: ** DISCLAIMER: I own none of the pieces mentioned above, and I also have no idea how to use them. The above message was written purely for the amusement of the traddies that have seen this thread a million times before. You should seek the advice of experienced leaders working the same rock that you intend to climb. :D :D :D Even the sig is spot on
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bigeastcoastsissy
Jun 2, 2004, 12:20 PM
Post #17 of 22
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 23
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Just personal preference here, but scrap buying another set of nuts and get a set of HB Offsets. These things are AWESOME! They seat soooooo nicely. Tricams are great, versatile, and relatively inexpensive....so, you could just pick one or two up as you get the chance. Don't forget to keep buying quickdraws and slings, too...you'll always need more.
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clarki
Jun 2, 2004, 12:22 PM
Post #18 of 22
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 192
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Just to add my thoughts even though it may have been said before....although some will strongly disagree: go to E-bay and buy yourself a set, or part of a set, or one at a time, FORGED FRIENDS. Used ones. They are light, work well, outlast every other cam on the market and, most imprtantly, they are CHEAP!!!! You can usually find them for around 20 bucks per piece!!! Don't mess with the small (.5) size, but 1 through 3.5 are great with a #2 being one of my most used pieces of all time (it matches a red Camalot). you can tie them off short "Gunks style" for horizontal placements. Risk the investment but do have an experienced friend (no pun intended:-) check them for you to make sure they are safe and usable.
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ryanpfleger
Jun 2, 2004, 2:32 PM
Post #19 of 22
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Registered: May 12, 2003
Posts: 243
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Speaking of Forged Friends
In reply to: They are light, work well, outlast every other cam on the market and, most imprtantly, they are CHEAP!!!! You can usually find them for around 20 bucks per piece!!! Don't mess with the small (.5) size, but 1 through 3.5 are great with a #2 being one of my most used pieces of all time (it matches a red Camalot). you can tie them off short "Gunks style" for horizontal placements. The reason they outlast every other cam on the market is they never get placed, because they blow. It's also possible that our friend clarki here is not aware of how much they blow. Its obvious that he's not aware that they don't come in a .5 size. (If they do and I am wrong, I apologize in advance). They actually might be okay in the larger sizes ( I haven't the larger sizes) but don't bother with the #1, or the #1.5 and I doubt the #2 is much better. The reason? The stem is wider than or nearly as wide as the placement size. Pretty brilliant design. That said if you decide you want a #1 and a #1.5 I'll sell you mine for $20 each, barely been placed, never fallen on. Ryan
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holmeslovesguinness
Jun 2, 2004, 3:12 PM
Post #20 of 22
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
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I agree that the smaller forged friends are kind of funky. However, #2-4 are definitely worth having, especially if you are trying to double up in that size range.
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tedc
Jun 2, 2004, 3:35 PM
Post #21 of 22
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
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Buy my used gear for sale and save a ton. PM me if you care. TedC
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wlderdude
Jun 5, 2004, 3:21 AM
Post #22 of 22
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
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Fine. That new guy gave away everything I wanted to say. i'll see what else I can dig up. If you like hexes, make sure you get the mid sizes. The #4 hex is my favorite. Sling them with cord, though. The camming action with that stiff wire just doesn't work. But only if you like hexes. I am not telling you to like hexes. I have been watching the ebay auctions and rarely is a number 4 hex listed, even in otherwise complete sets. The real trick to buying a set of cams when you are poor is not not buy a SET. Just saty out of the convience stores, eat Ramen and Mac 'n Cheeze instead of Mc Donalds and buy a cam every few weeks. The thrill of buying new gear lasts longer and you can switch brands if you think you might like another style better. Pretty soon you will have a pretty good rack. Each piece has character and a story. Oh, I am not in the gearheads forum. I better leave it at that.
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