|
phillygoat
Jun 2, 2004, 9:47 PM
Post #1 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
After over a year and a half of climbing as much as I can, a small part of me thinks I should probably be wearing a helmet when I'm leading a route(sport) even though I almost never see folks wearing them at the crags in my area. I understand the various risks of climbing(rockfall, decking, hooking a foot under the rope) but I'm curious how many sport climbers out there have hit their heads. After being hit by a drunk driver, I wouldn't think of riding my bike without a helmet, but that has more to do with being hit than the act of riding a bike. Does it seem a bit strange to anyone else that more folks aren't wearing helmets? take care, phillip
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Jun 2, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #2 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
At most of the sport areas around here, it's the belayer that needs the helmet. I've bumped my head because of my helmet, but never fallen and hit it, or anything like that.
|
|
|
|
|
crimpandgo
Jun 2, 2004, 10:31 PM
Post #3 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 1005
|
I dont think a helmet is ever a bad thing. Just depends on whether you want to lug it around. Most people have argued its not really necessary for single pitch sport routes. I have never felt like I needed it per say.
|
|
|
|
|
icekubes7
Jun 2, 2004, 10:37 PM
Post #4 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 56
|
I now wear my helmet for everything except bouldering. Two years ago, after I had been climbing for two years, I took a 12 ft. whipper on a 10d sport climb near Durango, CO. I guess I hadn't practiced falling enough, because I didn't push out enough when I fell, and I went kind of sideways and got the rope behind my leg. I remember falling and then all of a sudden looking right at my belayer. When I started to realize what was happening, I felt the violent impact of my head against the rock. I didn't go unconscious, but my vision went blury for a few seconds and I instantly touched the spot on my head I hit and then looked at my hand and saw it covered with blood. Then the blood started coming down into my eyes and everything. Needless to say, I was so freaked out and shaky I couldn't finish the route, but I was able to hike back to the car and stuff. I didn't even get a concussion, but had to get some stitches. For me that was just a HUGE wakeup call reminding me how fragile my life is. I EASILY could have been turned into a vegetable that day. It just showed me that bad stuff can happen even on sport climbs within my abilities. I never used to wear helmet except for multipitch, but now I wear it for everything except bouldering. Now that I'm used to wearing one, I NEVER feel like it's in the way, and I never feel less cool and I never feel like it takes away from the free feeling of climbing like i was afraid it was going to. To me, it's just a really easy way to prevent such an important part of myself.
climb safe :)
|
|
|
|
|
indigo_nite
Jun 2, 2004, 11:01 PM
Post #5 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2002
Posts: 365
|
I usually feel nerdy wearing a helmet while sport climbing but I do (leading and following). the nerdy part is probably b/c I rarely see other climbers wearing them, even on loose routes.
otherwise, the time when I take off the helmet is for TR'ing or eating.
|
|
|
|
|
gds
Jun 2, 2004, 11:02 PM
Post #6 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 710
|
I always wear a helmet while climbing. That way the habit is set. Bad stuff often happens when you don't expect it.
Years ago I raced bicycles. The same discussion happened in that sport. Now the USCF require helmets and it is rare to see a serious cyclist riding without. (not counting euro racers of course)
My bet is that in 10 years the discussion in climbing will be over and virtually every climber will be wearing a helmet sport & trad.
|
|
|
|
|
chodeman
Jun 2, 2004, 11:09 PM
Post #7 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 67
|
In reply to: I guess I hadn't practiced falling enough, because I didn't push out enough when I fell, and I went kind of sideways and got the rope behind my leg
Ive always been told that pushing off from the rock will lead to you impacting the cliff
THis kinda shows wat i mean http://www.climbing.com/...ps/sport/ttsport227/
|
|
|
|
|
xclimber
Jun 2, 2004, 11:11 PM
Post #8 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 426
|
Wear one while belaying too. Granted, it was a trad route, but I got smacked on the head (it explains a lot...) by a large hex that came out, slid down the rope which led directly to yours truly. There's no good reason not to wear one.
x
|
|
|
|
|
gds
Jun 2, 2004, 11:14 PM
Post #9 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2004
Posts: 710
|
In reply to: (it explains a lot...) x
Oh! now you tell me :D
|
|
|
|
|
smidogg
Jun 2, 2004, 11:15 PM
Post #10 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 7
|
I for one always wear a helmet if there is a rope involved.
This stems from two incidents. First was when I was out with a bunch of newbies toproping. A kid on a 5.7 climb pulled off a block the size of a toaster on a reachy move and it smacked him directly on the head (cracking his helmet) and then hit his belayer as well. The helmet no doubt saved him from serious injury. This was at a well established crag that was supposedly known for clean solid climbing.
A little more on thread is the second example.
I work in a gear shop that buys used gear and last week we had a guy come in and sell us a full sport and trad rack, shoes, etc. When we asked why he was quitting climbing . It turns out that he was selling the gear for his brother who had been climbing for over 10 years. However a month or so he was climbing up a 5.10 sport route to set up a TR for his friends. He slipped and took about an 8 footer and hooked his leg on the rope which flipped him upside down. He sustained major head injuries and is still on a ventilator and will probably be a vegetable for some time. The sad thing is that if he had been wearing a helmet, he probably would have walked away.
My motto is that nobody looks cool hooked up to a bunch of machines in a hospital bed. Wear a friggin helmet!
|
|
|
|
|
moss1956
Jun 2, 2004, 11:23 PM
Post #11 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2002
Posts: 213
|
It depends on where you are climbing and who you are climbing with.
If you are climbing with someone you trust at a crag you know to be heavily climbed without the possibility of some clown knocking something down from higher up, then you don't need a helmet.
If you are climbing with someone you don't trust, who could knock some loose rock on you... If it is a place that isn't very clean... If its really tall and there are people you don't know on higher pitches... If you are doing traditional climbing, and aren't posing for photographs .. :D
Neurological damage sucks.
The scenario described by icecubes7 was because the climber got his leg between the rock and the rope. I don't think a typical rock climbing helmet is designed to protect against that type of accident.
I wear it when I am doing traditional climbing and I wear it when I am with my son, as I want to be a good role model.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Jun 2, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #12 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
I always wear my brain bucket. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
j_dub
Jun 2, 2004, 11:29 PM
Post #13 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 142
|
All the folks I climb with wear helmets. One guy takes his off to lead, but he's the exception. I would assume I wouldn't wear a helmet bouldering, unless in a high rock fall area. :wink: Anyways, you can't get in the car to go to the crag without your lid. I think this is just smart climbing. I saw some beast-sized rocks falling about 10 feet to my left while climbing and was glad I had my helmet. Heck, it wasnt safe to get NEAR the crag without a helmet last weekend (we were in Seneca/Nelson Rocks). I hiked in with mine on, as did the other climbers in my party. I figure I'll look a lot dumber with a large dent in my skull than wearing my nice little BD half dome.
|
|
|
|
|
pylonhead
Jun 3, 2004, 12:44 AM
Post #14 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 283
|
I experience my first rock fall last Saturday top roping at Point Dume in Malibu. I say experienced because the first rock tumbling from above hit me smack in the middle of my unhelmeted head.
My helmet was clipped to my pack 10 feet away.
It was a small rock, but I'm sporting a nice bump from it. It was undoubtably someone walking around on top of the cliff.. it is easily accessible. We saw a few more rocks come down, then it stopped.
In the past I've only worn my helmet on lead, more worried about a flip around head knocker than I was about rock fall. Now I'm rethinking the wisdom on that.
|
|
|
|
|
xclimber
Jun 3, 2004, 1:31 AM
Post #15 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 426
|
In reply to: In reply to: (it explains a lot...) x Oh! now you tell me :D
I assumed you would deduce from last weekend's events... :deadhorse:
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Jun 3, 2004, 6:49 AM
Post #16 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
roughster moved this thread from General to Sport Climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
tallnik
Jun 4, 2004, 7:25 PM
Post #17 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2004
Posts: 595
|
Bought the Petzl Elios recently, love that bucket. It's already payed for itself, when I went mountaineering two weeks ago with a friend of mine. he didn't have a helmet, but we took turns wearing it, whoever was on belay usually, unless the belay was protected. The climb was super chossy. Someone in Climbing magazine wrote of how in the San Juan rockies the locals have many different types of choss, well that perfectly describes the peak we were on. Anyways, on multiple occasions, said climbing partner would yell "ROCK", and down would come some pebble to fist sized rocks. The helmet stopped any of the larger pieces that would have otherwise dented my noggin. Suprisingly, my backpack straps did the same for my shoulders. Only one cut that day from loose rock, and it was a hold that disintigrated and fell onto my leg on its way into the abyss.
Most of you know this, but there are two types of helmets those that are designed for rock fall and falling impact, and those for rock fall only. There are various advantages/disadvantages to both types, but I prefer the idea of a helmet that absorbs falling impact as well.
Anyways, Kurt was wearing the elios for the final three or four pitches to the top, and forgot he was wearing it, it's so light and comfortable.
Like someone else said, you look a lot stupider hooked up to hospital machines.
|
|
|
|
|
perozee
Jun 4, 2004, 7:43 PM
Post #18 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 268
|
I had one bad inverted fall and suffered a concussion. Now I always wear my helmet on lead and most of the time when I belay.
Peace
|
|
|
|
|
thun
Jun 4, 2004, 7:55 PM
Post #19 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 2003
Posts: 201
|
the conservative side of me bought a helmet a few months ago, partly because i know there's no real reason not to wear one (even on single pitch sport routes) and partly because i'd been suffering from a lack of confidence ever since hurting my wrist last year and i was desperate for anything that would help me get some back.
so far, i've only really worn it on slabs, where i think it makes the most sense as far as sport routes go. i've seen helmets be used a fair amount on sport slabs around here. can't say the same for overhung/face routes, however. i very rarely see anyone out at reimer's ranch near me wearing a helmet. the walls are short and there's not a whole lot of loose rock. also, there's less risk of hitting your head on a flat face of limestone than other types of climbs, or at least it seems that way. (i have taken a lead fall there backwards into a tree, though).
so i usually end up not wearing mine half the time, mainly because i feel goofy with it on. of course, it's not like i'm impressing much of anyone with my deftful 5.9 and 5.10a sends anyways. maybe my girlfriend, but she prolly thinks the helmet is cute, too :roll:
like another poster said...i think of it like bike helmets. 10 years ago, you rarely saw someone riding around with a bike helmet. nowadays, you see way more with helmets than without. and as we all know, but may not always follow...who cares what everybody else is doing. do what's best for you. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
lostcause
Jun 4, 2004, 8:08 PM
Post #20 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 118
|
I almost never wore my helmet sport climbing and then one day for some unexplained reason I put it on (probably the fact that the climb, a 5.11a, was above my abilities) and took a long whipper onto a ledge. My head bounced but because of the helmet no damage at all done. Granted I obviously did something wrong to land the way I did, but that's another issue.
|
|
|
|
|
dredsovrn
Jun 4, 2004, 8:39 PM
Post #21 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
|
I wear a helmet for trad and sport leads. You never know when you might catch your leg on the rope and flip upside down. BD Halfdome for me.
|
|
|
|
|
qpang
Jun 4, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #22 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 121
|
You only need a helmet if you think you have anything worth protecting inside your skull. Personally I wear mine all the time. You have no control over rock fall, at can happen anywhere anytime. I saw a few people say that they wear a helmet while leading, but not always while belaying. When I climb if there is only one helmet available I would prefer the belayer to be wearing it myself. For one he is below you right in line for anything the lead may knock off or drop (gear hurts too) and if the lead climber is knocked out the belayer can still lower him down. If the belayer is knocked out...then you're both screwed.
|
|
|
|
|
mr-pink
Deleted
Jun 4, 2004, 9:08 PM
Post #23 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
i've never been injured from rockfall or falling because i've been wearing my helmet since i started climbing.
i have catched some rock and rope and gear with my helmet, and then u r happy u r wearing the helmet!
It doesn't have any neg's wearing a helmet, so wear one!!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jun 5, 2004, 7:52 AM
Post #24 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
in most areas its not neccesary after spring. immediately after winter its a good idea because of loose rock. and in some areas its a good idea all year aroud becasue of poor cleaning.
anyway, i dont wear it.
|
|
|
|
|
ullr
Jun 5, 2004, 8:21 AM
Post #25 of 64
(6337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 29, 2004
Posts: 338
|
I was at ORG the other day when I heard a crazy sound. The wind was whipping around fierce in a big ass dust devil in the canyon by the Negress Wall. Then all of a sudden, rocks the size of bricks were flying off the choss above and landing on the road in the bottom of the canyon.
Never know when or where the death block is going to come from. These bricks flying around ORG would have been more than enough to kill someone.
Just a thought.
In reply to: You only need a helmet if you think you have anything worth protecting inside your skull. Personally I wear mine all the time.
So true.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
