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pedro_burrito
Jun 1, 2004, 3:25 AM
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When you're on a big wall for a multi-day climb, how difficult is it to sleep? What time do you usually start climbing and what time do you stop for the day? Do you stop when you are out of daylight or do you stop from exhaustion?
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bandycoot
Jun 1, 2004, 4:27 AM
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I sleep quite well. Exhaustion usually knocks me out like a baseball bat. I've only slept on "descent" ledges or a portaledge so I haven't been on a truly uncomfortable position (like sitting) yet. I stop when I get to the ledge that I planned on sleeping on. I go to sleep when it is a little past dark and wake with the early light.
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addiroids
Jun 1, 2004, 4:57 AM
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I like to get the final lead done before it gets dark, so while one person is getting all set up for the night, the other can be fixing the next pitch for a jump start in the morning. I have only bivied on a portaledge once, and we did where we did because we had passed a team and had to get ahead of them for courtesy purposes, so we kept climbing eventhough it was almost dark when I started leading. We got to bed at midnight and got up at 6am, and were climbing by 7am. I like to get a FULL day of climbing in, so first light is usually a good wake time.
And you would be suprised how easily it is to fall asleep when you are totally exhausted from the day's work...er I mean fun. If you do have to hang all night, make an aider seat out of two parallel aiders so it is thick and covers a lot of ass/leg. Then wrap one around your back and clip it in. You can now lean up against the wall and put your helmeted head against the wall and almost get a descent sleep. I took a 15 min nap this way, and eventhough your legs fall asleep, it's better than nothing.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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lambone
Jun 1, 2004, 5:32 AM
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I sleep like a rock. I hate climbing after dark, but sometimes you need to keep moving. Definately take a few minutes to straighten everything out before you crash, it will make the morning much smoother...
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the_dude
Jun 1, 2004, 5:46 AM
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I always sleep well on walls. After a full day of climbing and hauling, and a beer, I'm out. I like to climb untill dark, setting up the ledge in the dark and organizing the gear is easy after the sun goes down. I also like to wake up about a half hour before sunrise. I always move slow in the morning and this gives me a chance to get my berrings straight, eat, fill the shit tube and get ready to climb by first light. I always notice the difference it makes by getting an early start, a few days of it and you can shave off a bivi. Everybody has their own agenda on a wall, this is just the way I like to do it.
Cheers
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pedro_burrito
Jun 1, 2004, 2:17 PM
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"fill the s--- tube"
Ahem, that leads to my next question ... how is that done? Do you have to go off harness to poop?
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lambone
Jun 1, 2004, 4:20 PM
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get a harness with adjustable leg loops that you can take off.
You'll figure it out, just carry it all down with you and dispose of it properly. :wink:
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verticallaw
Jun 1, 2004, 4:41 PM
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Man I sleep like a baby on walls..... it's just all so peacefull. Only once was it not comfy which was probably due to two people on a single man ledge soooooo the lesson learned is if there is a problem with yer partners ledge and they are NOT a fine (and single) specimen of the oposite sex..... best to rap off cause your in for a bad bad night. :shock:
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lambone
Jun 1, 2004, 4:44 PM
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just thought of something else to say about this....
I sleep much better in a Single Ledge as opposed to a Double....for obvious reasons.
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pedro_burrito
Jun 2, 2004, 5:15 PM
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In reply to: just thought of something else to say about this.... I sleep much better in a Single Ledge as opposed to a Double....for obvious reasons.
:?: I'm sorry, what's the reason? :?:
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edge
Jun 2, 2004, 5:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: just thought of something else to say about this.... I sleep much better in a Single Ledge as opposed to a Double....for obvious reasons. :?: I'm sorry, what's the reason? :?:
Well I'm sure he'd change his tune if he were sharing a double with Liv Tyler, but picture a sweaty, grizzled guy who smells like yesterday's tuna and needs to use the poop tube in front of you.
That should explain.
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iamthewallress
Jun 2, 2004, 5:24 PM
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In reply to: When you're on a big wall for a multi-day climb, how difficult is it to sleep?
Sometimes the challenge is NOT sleeping (long belays...night crew...)
A guy I know once told me that someone asked him how he could sleep on a portaledge, and he answered, "How could you not sleep on portaledge?" That pretty much summed it up. Short of impending storms and such, when you're up there, you tend to want to sleep when you have the chance.
In reply to: What time do you usually start climbing and what time do you stop for the day? Do you stop when you are out of daylight or do you stop from exhaustion?
It depends on what the day's goals are, when I need to be back to work, and how much food and water is on board. If I have lots of time and supplies and get done with what I need to do before dark, then it's nice to set up for dinner early and watch the sun set. If I'm facing starvation and dessication 8 pitches from the top, then it's time for the dreaded night crew.
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asandh
Jun 2, 2004, 6:17 PM
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:)
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lambone
Jun 2, 2004, 6:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: just thought of something else to say about this.... I sleep much better in a Single Ledge as opposed to a Double....for obvious reasons. :?: I'm sorry, what's the reason? :?: Well I'm sure he'd change his tune if he were sharing a double with Liv Tyler, but picture a sweaty, grizzled guy who smells like yesterday's tuna and needs to use the poop tube in front of you. That should explain.
Yeah...sort of. But if your worried about the way your partner smells or looks, your probly gunna end up bailing off the wall early anyway.
It's mostly because I roll over alot in my sleep, and 1-it is harder to roll over in a double ledge 'cause you have less space. 2- I feel guilty about rolling over because it wakes up your partner, and it sucks when they rollover too.
BTW- My double ledge is FOR SALE (send me a PM)
I also am a night owl, so I typicaly end up staying up late listening to tunes,reading, looking at the starts, and just enjoying the serenity up there. Of course I allways pay the price in the morning.
of course, this is roadside Sport Walling we are talking about here, in the Alpine the opposite applies.
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coomer
Jun 3, 2004, 12:15 AM
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I did my first 3 or 4 walls with a gramicci single ledge- DICEY! These things would taco if you looked cross-eyed at 'em let alone moved while laying on one. But was still able to get some decent nights sleep on it. Even hung a two point hammock from the gramicci- NOT RECOMMENDED, but still slept ok.
Then I split a double with a parnter. Doubles have quite a few drawbacks in my opinion... if it's slabby and you have the slot next to the wall... eegads- the dividers will practically suffocate you. You have about 25-30%less space per person compared to a single- and someone already mentioned the problem when your partner shifts during the night- it's one thing if you cause the ledge to bounce- but when someone else does it- it's annoying and usually wakes me up. But most of the time, I was so damn tired that I slept pretty well in the double with a partner.
Then I bought a single- just got tired of the cramped quarters. I love it. Sleeping at the base of some laser cut dihedral of perfect gray/orange granite is one of the best parts of wall climbing. I sleep better on a wall in my single than camping on the ground. All that desperate climbing is just a means to get to that ultra-cool bivy spot that most never have a hope of experiencing...
Wall dumps are a whole different matter- another reason to have a single ledge, nothing worse than your partner bouncing around while you're trying to take care of business...
cheers
e
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stymingersfink
Jun 4, 2004, 1:01 AM
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gotta love those plastic grocery bags for starting my business day. highly compactable, weigh next to nothing and handles built right in. Hope i never have the occasion to fill the thing up.
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iamthewallress
Jun 4, 2004, 1:25 AM
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In reply to: gotta love those plastic grocery bags for starting my business day. highly compactable, weigh next to nothing and handles built right in. Hope i never have the occasion to fill the thing up.
If you do your thang in plastic, how do you dispose of it?
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notaclockworkorange
Jun 4, 2004, 2:32 AM
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I definitely have never even considered bigwalling, but just out of curiosity, has anyone every tried making a hammock out of webbing and just sleeping in that.
Pardon the newb-ness
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lambone
Jun 4, 2004, 2:58 AM
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the old schoolers did. check out some of the books on Yosemite history, like "Camp 4." those MoFo's had a high tolerence for suckfactor back then...
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stymingersfink
Jun 5, 2004, 6:59 PM
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stage it in the 'tube, then take it home and bronze it when the climb is finished. Why, what do you do with it?
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whitefingers
Jun 5, 2004, 7:47 PM
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I want to hear about sleeping on the wall when the weather goes south. I have a hard time in a tent on terra firma when the sky falls in. Some guys specialize in that insanity :shock: , Id like to hear thier story...
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megableem
Jun 5, 2004, 8:02 PM
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coylec
Jun 7, 2004, 2:23 AM
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Sleeping alone in a double is a WONDERFUL experience. I found I slept better on the outside (away from the wall). This meant i could put my cloths bag, food bag and other junk on one side of the shark fins. and sleep on the other. I only put up the fin at my feet.
Sleeping in a portaledge beats a thermarest on the ground ANY day of the week.
With the rain fly on, it gets a little stuffy with two people. You really have to work to keep it ventilated.
coylec
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timpanogos
Jun 9, 2004, 7:30 AM
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Well, this much I can tell you, It takes a “pissy” partner to discover Russ’s special design feature of his double ledges and not tell you about it for several days into the climb …
Notice the comfort level of this wall partner:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=33804
Now as the morning watering alarm goes off – this dumb guy (me) gets out of the sac – does that – kneeling, prayerful approach to the edge of the ledge – and turns on the valve.
Not Chris. He simply rolls over – unzips and using the middle ledge attachment hole – pokes his little friends head into the void – and shortly rolls back over for another hour or two’s sleep – never even leaving the bag – heck hardly waking.
Thanks for FINALLY clueing me in!
Chad
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epic_ed
Jun 9, 2004, 7:36 AM
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LOL! That's great! I'll make that my next ledge modification.
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