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roughster
Jun 5, 2004, 5:39 AM
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Curious as to what people's breaking point is? DTSA has a fairly stiff 45 minute approach if you hike it with a decent clip. I used to think that 20-30 mins sucked, but now 45 mins is nothing.
So whats you're take?
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ullr
Jun 5, 2004, 5:53 AM
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Good routes, then I don't care how long the approach is.
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climbinginchico
Jun 5, 2004, 7:22 AM
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If there were awesome routes on TOP of Half Dome, I would hike there (stairs and cables and all) for killer climbing. Then again, I was stupid and did that hike twice in 3 days. Carrying food, clothes and water for everyone else too (6 other people). And the stove. and and and...
Maybe I'm crazy? :shock: naaawwwwwww.
Am I? :oops:
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j_dub
Jun 5, 2004, 7:28 AM
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It's not the length of the hike, but the amount of 4th class terrain, loose soil and large loose boulders.. 30 degree slopes of chossy rock.. the amount of falling rock that could land on me, etc. My knees can only take so much before they're useless for the actual climb. The hike in last weekend was FAR more scary and dangerous than any climbing we did. Some people in my party jokingly offered me a belay down the choss hill after I slipped on some loose boulders a couple times. :wink:
Also, the ratio of climbs to effort expended to GET to the climbs.. we spent all day Saturday looking for routes, and finally got on a wall at 5:30pm. That was a ratio of 6 hours of intense 3rd and 4th class hiking for less than 3 hours of climbing. I got one climb in that day. I mean, hiking is nice, but next time, we are going to Kentucky. hmph.
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overlord
Jun 5, 2004, 7:44 AM
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depends on the quality of the crag and the type of the approach.
the crag i visit most often has about 15mins uphill easy approach (gravel road). i could easyly walk for more than an hour if the routes were worth it. but i really hate scree slopes.
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joshklingbeil
Jun 5, 2004, 8:01 AM
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I usally use this equation Height x Hike x Quality ......
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dynocampusaurus
Jun 5, 2004, 8:05 AM
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In reply to: the crag i visit most often has about 15mins uphill easy approach (gravel road). i could easyly walk for more than an hour if the routes were worth it. but i really hate scree slopes.
15 minutes? That's pretty nice!
I've only been to one crag that was 15 minutes in. Most of the crags I climb at are at around 30 to 45. Hell, I've even gone 1.5 hours (granted, we were a little lost, but damn it was worth it when we got there)!
This is to be expected given Vancouver Island, though.
I don't mind the hard hikes - it can get you psyched for a climb, and also make you work hard enough that your warmup is quite minimal. However, it can also work in the opposite way where the hike has the potential to wear you out.
Long hikes are great on the way back for getting rid of some of the lactic acid buildup and to just enjoy the area!
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joshklingbeil
Jun 5, 2004, 8:34 AM
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I'll hike 2 to 3 hours to climb some easy chossy trad climb no question.....
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asandh
Jun 5, 2004, 2:38 PM
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:?
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roughster
Jun 5, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Well fortunately this hike doesn't have a lot of scree or loose technical sections. Another nice thing is literally, you could not ask for a much more pituresque hike. My partners and I often speculate on what people will think about it.
We'll find out soon enough! The 1st RC.commie is invited out there next weekend. The true test of whether or not the approach is too long :lol:
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coldclimb
Jun 5, 2004, 4:20 PM
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I like hiking almost as much as climbing. Well, maybe not almost as much, but I do enjoy it. ;) I'll hike for hours, whether I get to climb or not. If the climbing is good, it could be days.
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ikefromla
Jun 5, 2004, 4:39 PM
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There's a crag out here with an approximate 45 minute approach, though I usually do it in a little less than that. the rock is pretty chossy on the routes that haven't seen a lot of traffic, and it's still worth it. granted, the hike is beautiful, and hiking out of there is the perfect end to a long day of climbing.... followed by La Salsa and Cold Stone of course. :wink:
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roughster
Jun 5, 2004, 4:53 PM
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In reply to: There's a crag out here with an approximate 45 minute approach, though I usually do it in a little less than that. the rock is pretty chossy on the routes that haven't seen a lot of traffic, and it's still worth it. granted, the hike is beautiful, and hiking out of there is the perfect end to a long day of climbing.... followed by La Salsa and Cold Stone of course. :wink:
You mean Echo or Boney by chance?
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superfox
Jun 5, 2004, 5:04 PM
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At my camp, we hiked up Huntington Ravine at Mount Washington (around 3 hours uphill I think) to try to FA some hard single-pitch climbs. Twice.
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njari
Jun 5, 2004, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: I usally use this equation Height x Hike x Quality ......
Interesting idea joshklingbeil.
I came up with my own equation to calculate the "is it worth the approach" factor (Fwa):
Fwa= (height of route in m) (quality of route from 1 to 10)^2 / (approach time in min) (grade of approach, 1 to 5)
I squared the quality rating because it is by far the most important variable (to most climbers).
Some example Fwa's ("Worth-the-approach factor"):
Mission Gorge: 15 (5 quality, 20m height, short 12 min. uphill approach)
top of Mount Woodson: 10.8 (9 quality, 10m height, 1 hr uphill approach)
East Face of Mt Whitney: 12 (9.5 quality, 400m height, 24hr approach)
J-tree, Hidden Valley Campground: 400 (9 quality, 25 m, 5 min approach)
(no wonder Josh sees so much traffic while Whitney sees only a few parties a day!)
All the variables are subjective, but for me, an Fwa of > 10 means that the climbs warrant the approach.
What are the Fwa's of other crags?
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njari
Jun 5, 2004, 5:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Fwa= (height of route in m) (quality of route from 1 to 10)^2 / (approach time in min) (grade of approach, 1 to 5)(~150M (Height) x (8 (Quality)^2))/(45 mins x 1 (just hiking) = DTSA = 213 Not Too Shabby :lol: Auburn = 100x7^2/45 = 109 The only problem I see here is the route height is a little too heavily factored. I would adjust your formula too: ((Route Height/2)+(Quantity/2))x(Quailty^2)/(Approach Time)x(Technical Difficulty) This would factor in the quantity of routes which certainly effects how far one would be willing to hike. For example you could have a single multi-pitch climb of good quality out score a crag with 1000 5 star routes. That would be accounted for witht he "new" formula. I think we are on to something here!
I'll go with that.
The quantity could throw off the rating for a big wall with a single classic line (compared to a mecca that has thousand of climbs that won't be done on a given trip). So, maybe "quantity" should be the quantity of routes at the given quality rating that will be done in a single trip.
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njari
Jun 5, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Maybe someone should come up with an equation to predict if I'll go to work today.
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biff
Jun 5, 2004, 5:35 PM
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1.5 hours uphill on a goat trail with 700m Elevation Gain (about 2000 feet).
Bataan
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caughtinside
Jun 5, 2004, 5:51 PM
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It's Double Top Secret, get it?!
Don't be sandbagged by roughster as I have been. THe hike is at least 3 hours to get to that 20 foot mound of choss! Oh, and the hike is all scree, and the air smells of sulphur. It sucks! Stay away! :P
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roughster
Jun 5, 2004, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: Maybe someone should come up with an equation to predict if I'll go to work today.
You have to understand this is a very complicated equation invloving the amount of beer in the fridge, the quality of sports on TV, your sex life, all set against how pissed you are at your boss and your budget buffer.
NOTE: This equation only works for males. Female version is still being worked on, but so far, there has been no logical pattern found that governs females thinking :lol:
(How Happy you are at work (1-3 scale) 1=Pissed/3=Happy)) X (3 + (# of times you have had sex with another person over last 3 days) - (( |Monthly Income-Monthly Bills) | /1000) / ((# of quality sport programs on TV)x(# of Beer in fridge)-(# of time's "Self Serviced Sexually over last 3 days ))x(chance of climbing in .## format)
As you can see as your beer, quality of TV Sports goes up, or chance of going climbing goes up, you are much less likely to go to work. BUT this is only true if you are either 2/3 at work AND have a positive cash inflow as related to your bills but it can't be too extreme wither way. If you have ALOT of bills in essence exceeding your income, its going to to take a lot of beer and sport + climbing to overcome that.
Lets run this by a real life person: me.
(3 X 5) - | (1500/1000) | / 1 (Seattle plays today) x 6 pack (straight from Nugget!) - 1 (oops :oops: )) x .30 (might go bouldering but doubtfull) = 9.0
The higher your score, the more likely it is you will go to work, provided it is a day you are supposed to go to work. Fortunately for me, I am not supposed to go, so my 9.0 which would normally mean I would, I can disgard.
At any point if there is no good sports, no beer, or 0% chance of climbing, you will go to work for sure!
Note: I haven't tried all the combinations so I am not quite sure if it holds up yet. more later! I'll try to run it by the Community Folks :lol:
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njari
Jun 5, 2004, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Maybe someone should come up with an equation to predict if I'll go to work today. (How Happy you are at work (1-3 scale) 1=Pissed/3=Happy)) X (3 + (# of times you have had sex with another person over last 3 days) - (( |Monthly Income-Monthly Bills) | /1000) / ((# of quality sport programs on TV)x(# of Beer in fridge)-(# of time's "Self Serviced Sexually over last 3 days ))x(chance of climbing in .## format)
That's classic!
But, zero beer can give a negative result (so could no sex).
A little tweaking, and its good to go!
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roughster
Jun 5, 2004, 7:01 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Maybe someone should come up with an equation to predict if I'll go to work today. (How Happy you are at work (1-3 scale) 1=Pissed/3=Happy)) X (3 + (# of times you have had sex with another person over last 3 days) - (( |Monthly Income-Monthly Bills) | /1000) / ((# of quality sport programs on TV)x(# of Beer in fridge)-(# of time's "Self Serviced Sexually over last 3 days ))x(chance of climbing in .## format) That's classic! But, zero beer can give a negative result (so could no sex). A little tweaking, and its good to go!
True, back to the lab!
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ikefromla
Jun 5, 2004, 9:25 PM
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In reply to: You mean Echo or Boney by chance? |
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brutusofwyde
Jun 22, 2004, 12:55 AM
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In reply to: It's Double Top Secret, get it?!
As in:
"D.T.S., eh?"
Definitely Canadianspeak.
Brutus
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